ok, not that anyone seems to be any help but I shall call this one solved, and i'm sending my not so great ECU into ECM tuning to get tested, repaired, EPROM converted and DSM link V3...every sensor has been tested by my fluke multimeter or replaced with another known good sensor just to double...

Ok, i've been through a ton of "no start" threads and still haven't quite figured out whats going on with my 92 GSX. On random occasions it will decide it doesn't want to start. The fuel pump will kick on, starter will crank, and the check engine light will come on for its usual 5 seconds but...

10.0 to 1 doesn't seem super rich for e85 but I'm not an expert with e85 so I wouldn't exactly know. Of course I always thought 9 to 1 was stoich for e85. I would say unless you can find someone thats super good at tuning for e85 I, personally, would run gasoline. I have nothing against you...

I'm also chasing the same exact issue. I get around the same counts for knock right as I start to transition into boost, always between 2500 rpms and 3500 rpms. Only happens for me at over 50% throttle and will not happen if I ease into full throttle slowly. 92 GSX 6/4 with pretty much the...

Ok, so I probably know what my issue is but I would like to see if I can get some feedback. I have a 92 gsx with a 2G MAF and an Apexi SAFC II and while at idle, after a minute or so the car starts to act stutter and act like it wants to stall for a second but will jump right back to normal...

OK, so the other day I pulled my valve cover off to retorque my ARP head studs and I was looking at my cams ### they don't seem stock to me. They have no stock markings on them at all, but there is a #22 on the intake and a #20 on the exhaust I believe but it could be the other way around. At...

oh look, its the volvette, the volvo 740 wagon with a twin turbo'd LS1...didn't think any other DSMers would have interest in a volvo, other than myself...i mean come on, anytime you can buy a car with very simple to fix problems and a strong bottom end which includes a forged crank(yeah, a lot...

yeah thanks, i'm glad too...no money on account of school and the GSeX

i went ahead and torqued mine to 100ft/lbs just to be safe and i'll check them later this week. but i actually looked at my head and its decked to SH*T so i probably had a bit of detonation from all that extra compression i didn't think i hadand it took me 4 hours without power tools...

Ok, so i blew my head gasket the other day having a bit of fun which was probably a bad idea but not why i'm here. When i took my cylinder head off i actually looked at the deck and its pretty wicked. As in, with my valves closed they are a tiny bit out of the head. I've been looking at...

wow, does it normally take you guys 4 hours to change out the head gasket? and i had a nice chuck of gasket around number 3 blown out like mad...no head issues though, so shes already back on the road and running very well

well it looks like i F/K'd up and blew my head gasket doing a pull for "fun" so its time to take the head off and get some new stuff. right now I have a fel-pro gasket set on it and all the parts are still under warranty. I don't plan on making any more than 400hp ever with this car so should...

right now i'm leaning more towards my ecu, since it has some corrosion on the outside of it plus the last owner who installed the safc2 didn't do the greatest wiring job. and no boost leaks for mewell i feel stupid...my mas somehow managed to unplug itself, or i have a ghoast inhabiting my car

I'm having almost the same issue...and it tends to happen around 2000to 2500 rpms when i go from low throttle to high throttle very quickly. it doesn't matter exactly how much i put my foot down, it stutters for a couple seconds then gets up and moves. it will also do it at higher rpms as well...

well i ended up not touching timing...my friend and i went out and messed with it...turns out stupid me had the idle set a little too low, bumped it up to just over 1000rpms and no more idle issues and she pulls like a jet plane trying to take off

so is it going to kill me if I retard my timing a degree? And I would like to get DSM link but I have a non eprom ecu so it would cost me quite a bit so I'm just trying to make the most of this setup.

Ok, so I guess I'm looking for some imput on what I should do for my ignition timing. I have an early 92 GSX with 8.5:1 compression pistons, a 16g turbo set at 15psi, a 2g MAS and I'm running evo 560cc injectors. For tuning, I have an Apexi SAFC II. I recently upgraded to the 560's and I've...

I second that, why spend $150 when you can buy the same thing for way cheaper, most ebay kits even come with the mounting plate for a cone filter too. I would buy it for my 1G but I'm dumb and I don't wanna recirc my bov so i have to buy one from dejon powerhouse which is also a good brand. I...

if i were you, i would just run the vacuum line right from the fpr to the intake manifold... i can't really tell you exactly what you should do since i don't even have the stock fpr anymore

yeah, mine feels about the same way...i thaught the 1G was supposed to be a decent BOV? it doesn't change my turbo spooling up but it leaks a little through the BOV...should i just set it back to recirc and not touch it?

i have felt air coming out of the blow off valve with the car running, no boost leak test, the turbo was pushing air out of it, at about 7 or 8 psi to be exact, with the vacuum/boost line from the blow off valve going right to the intake manifold.

i have the same problem with mine, but my car sat for 3 years so its probably the internal spring that started to go bad. it happens over time, think of how old that blow off valve is and what they were made to handle from the factory vs. what we push through them. obviously a good condition...

have you tried unplugging them?

It's hard to tell exactly whats up without knowing about the engine build, but if it was done by someone out of their garage who just threw new bearings in it or whatever probably did something wrong. heck, if they got rid of the balance shafts and didn't get the balance shaft bearings turned...

just ### you needed to get rid of your dsm doesn't mean you can't be a part of the big dsm family. there will be a point in life for everyone when they realize some things are more important but doesn't mean you can never have an awesome car like that again.

using an engine hoist is the easiest. i bolted mine to where the tranny mount would bolt to. the best way would require 2 people, one to operate the hoist and one to be under the car adjusting the tranny into place, i always pointed the diff upwards until the tranny was close then rotated it...

with the ebay stuff, you have to know what to look out for. but my advice would be to not use the ebay turbo. an intercooler kit, exhaust and some of the easier things are decent on ebay(not 12 second 1/4 mile decent) and good enough to throw on but i would only buy a turbo made by a trusted...

idk man...anyone that says HEADERS when regarding a 4 CYLINDER TURBO idk if i could truck, they obviously don't know what they really have.

no, its the act 2600 curse. the quick fix would be to put a couple washers under your pivot ball. also since you much like myself have a 1g you might want to check the clutch pedal assembly and see how much you can push the pedal down before the slave cylinder starts moving because you may need...

isn't that 3 grand or whatever in engine work warrantied at all? ### thats kinda bull that you didn't even get the car home and the engine went out on you. Of course thats why its way better to find a running one that hasn't been touched. I baught my car not running, the guy let it sit for 3...

yeah, thats way too high for a small 16 to spool up, mine is clipped and i hit 15 psi between 3000 and 3500

stupid lifter tick...and yes, boost leak tester!!! I would say you have a bad throttle body and gaskets, i'm more of a 1g guy so idk much about your car but that is where my big issues were. heck, my small 16g hits 15psi between 3000 and 3500 at about half throttle and i still have a tiny leak...

that hydraulic tensioner is very picky...you changed it when you rebuilt your engine right? when i rebuilt mine a couple months ago i inspected the tensioner and it seems tight and wasn't leaking so i reused it(bad idea) i was lucky enough to catch that and replace the tensioner before my 1500...

probably a typo...npr is overseas product so if there was a minor spelling error i wouldn't blame them

i hear you there...the exhaust on my car is a thermal r&d from like 7 years ago and before i rebuilt the engine, aparently it burnt a lot or oil and random crap so whenever i take off i get puffs of black smoke as carbon and random solid particles of junk in my exhaust heat up and get thrown...

that kit only does -.75 to .75 so if you have any height adjustment then those aren't gonna do you any good. i would recommend a moog set, i'm sure they make a kit for your car for up to + or -2 degrees

the ACT 2600 will hold up for what you want...i actually took mine off for a lighter pp with a 6 puck sprung disk since i'll only be making 400hp at the most...the act 2600 with solid street disk might be what you're looking for, i have my set but its for a 6 bolt awd. the 2600 isn't too bad on...

wouldn't it be easier to swap your parts to the awd body/drivetrain?

A/F ratio gauge anyone? wideband or narrowband, you will be able to tell what the afr is which might help. there are certain times when that 12.5:1 is the best thing ever but under partial throttle your car may not like it quite as much. just some food for thaught

i got my stage 3 with the lighteight flywheel, still breaking it in but it seems fine. i've never driven something with a 6 puck before so yeah its very picky for pedal travel and how quickly you try to release the clutch

If the CAS is 180 off then just for kicks and giggles try putting the timing light clamp on another plug wire to see which one might line up with the mark on the crank pulley(if any). probably not the best advice but you have nothing to lose and only knowledge to gain

does it matter what gear you are in at all?

it almost sounds like ignition timing as well as a non functioning IAC. of course that manifold of yours isn't exactly designed for idle either

Well i finally have my XTD stage 3 setup in, with the 11.5 pount flywheel...its a great clutch but it chatters like a mother

I'm going to second the syncros...they do exactly what it sounds like they do, and if you try to force your car into gear when the syncros aren't mating right then the crap starts hitting the fan. try draining the fluid and looking for tiny brass colored metal shavings and if you happen to see...

there is too much travel before the throwout bearing even touches the pressure plate so the clutch doesn't fully disenguage. I don't need the longer rod to increase the throw, i need it to move the base position of the throwout bearing closer to the pressure plate

I'm waiting for my XTD stage 3 to get here. Anyone know about their flywheel quality? I'm done trying to bandaid the ACT 2600

Does anyone else think that this issue should be noted? I'm having the same problem with my ACT 2600 PP and a solid disk. I have nothing against ACT clutches but for a car thats street driven it seems like they aren't the best option. Personally, I haven't looked into the QM setup but it sounds...

you know, most people don't realize that ACT, Centerforce and SPEC are just names and these XTD clutches are most likely made in the same factory as at least one of these name brands. I mean look at it, the stage 3 has your typical 6 puck ceramic disk which is just like ACT or anyone else and...

well the pedal assembly was pretty messed up to the point of where i had an inch of freeplay at the pedal so i made new bushings for it and welded the piece that the master cylinder adjustment rod bolts to and even a not fully bled system feels a heck of a lot better than it was. i'll have to...