No fuel leaks, its making it to the injectors and into the cylinders just fine. and im thinking of swapping ecus one of these days.

Ok so i have had my car running for a few weeks now, no real problems running, no knock during pulls and always started with ease!!!2G AWD with V3 7 bolt motor with 1G CAS and also running SD Cars just cleaned up, no major harness cutting or parts mangling. Only thing i have done to the...

If i pull the trans again the pivot ball and fork are definelty going to be replaced, and i am going to look at my pedal assembly one of these days. I work way to much to have time for dsm's haha.

OK so i have a 95 talon TSI AWD..... just put a old school 2900 lb clutch in that was in a buddies car for about 10 miles, basically brand new. The only problem is i cant get it into gear, im close but just cant seem to get the slave rod to move enough.Basically i have replaced every part...

Tim and i are basically down to the idea of pulling trans and taking a look, but flywheel is brand new, but it could be stepped wrong or PP could be hanging up... idk i will be pulling it today

The clutch disk and PP are from the same package, and a longer rod wont really help, it will basically do what my little pre load trick is doing now, in the end it will hold the fork out farther and lead to thrust bearing failure.

all done it doesnt matter where my rod is....

Ok so when my car is running i cant get it into gear.... 2g awd, Its a new rebuilt motor and stock trans, fidanza light weight flywheel, ACT 2900 clutch kit (was installed on another car for about 10 miles and worked flawlessly), shimmed the pivot ball as much as the previous set up was...

For reliability and power... go old school with the 12v cummins, it just cant be beat, they are million mile motors and proven in that!!!And those new turbo FORDS ARE GARBAGE, they make the same power as the v8's and get like a mpg better when using them for the purpose of a truck... if you...

I actually just measured resistance between the 2 power wires for the cas and cps on a 95 and there was none.... Meaning they are tapped from the same source at their origin. I actually wired in a 1g cas so I pulled back the wires in the harness to the other side of the VC, and I was expecting...

I understand that i just want to run the CAS only, just leave my CPS alone. I would imagine that i could just take the Red and Black from the 2g CAS connector instead of the CPS and power the 1g CAS.

Ok so I will be starting my car soon and I was planning on running a 1g CAS on my 2g, all 7 bolt components. But I decided to keep the Crank Position Sensor in place and just run that stock. So the ? is, is it possible to just go to a 1g CAS? and then how do I wire that seeing as how i know when...

Yea... NO, im pretty sure you can use the 1g sensor just fine, i am about to use the exact set up on my car. Thought i still have a 2g head i am wiring in a 1g CAS.

The fins of a 16g are spaced unevenly, your are all even so 14b

Yea i hope i can assemble my car by the shootout... I was pointed out to the fact that I have a little over 500 hours to do it seeing as my nice 12 hour night shifts 7 days a week... mmmmm overtime, so i will be lossing my in between sleep in a few days to start on it.... got customer cars to...

Tim makes it look easy to maintain the kid all day till the wife takes over then spend hours and hours in the garage/ basement..... you are a pro sir, sound like a lot of work to get done in 2 weeks but hey perks of running your own business.... "doors are closed i need to fix my stuff first!!!"...

V3 has and option to use an electric solenoid that you can use as a boost controller, it also gives you the option to set boost per rpm to help smooth out you curve to make sure of no spiking and such, I'm still waiting for them to make a dual stage solenoid that can be programmed to switch with...

To be honest there will be damn near no effect on performance with stock boost levels on the little turbo, all it will do it give you more lag, so if the air does get colder... hey more power... but you also just lost a few hunudred rpms in lag so your going slower.... Unless you want to go with...

Sounds like boost leak, the venting of the BOV wont cause your problem unless it is stuck open, it usually only hurts between shifts becuase you are losing metered air in the system which screws your AFR's all to hell!!! Really need to check that code and it sounds kind of like a bad MAF sensor...

gaping

B0F7235-W0YE. W5M332WQYEQF7235 these are the numbersAnd also is there any difference in the transfer cases, his locked up a few weeks ago and we have the evo 2 one but dont know if its the same. So basically is it useable as is? What would we have to swap if we do? And is it worth it when I...

WOW!!!!!! more than i needed to know but AWESOME!!! thank you for the info, is there anything that you know of that we can compare from his JDM tranny to his 2g tranny to make sure it is a evo 2 and not evo 1? Basically you where talking about some of the forks looking different and such, so...

Thank you very much Tim, and you were saying the internals match an evo 3 correct not a 2g, just want to clarify seeing as I had a long post and want to make sure you read it the way I thinking it.Thanks again

Ok so i know there are a few threads about Evo 3 trannys and the parts needed to make them fit into a 2g dsm but does anyone know about an Evo 2 tranny. My buddy got a JDM engine from some importer a few years back and just needed the engine at the time so the tranny got stuffed in the corner...

would start at MAF like previously said and also FIAV on the bottom of your TB, coulb be going bad... its job is to adjust air flow for the temp outside and if it going bad it could be screwing everything up... though for the extreme of your rpm range i would try the MAF first.

SHAWN HUETTER STOP FIGHTING PEOPLE ON TUNERS!!!!!!i think this is hilarious and that i found my step-borther from across the country on this thread HAHA

WOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHH ROB!!!!! to bad your slave went out the day i was there :(. But i got some good runs in and it was a fun day for the drag slicks reveiling!!!

well its not stripped like some of these but the black does wonders!!!

ok well either way it goes if you are to read any wideband instructions from any top name manufacturer they say 2 to 3 feet from head for most accurate reading, so non the less yes front o2 sensor hole will work but your ecu needs that stock narrowband sensor for proper adjustments in its own...

well either way i mean it would be noticable which way is right by just swappin them and cranking, one will say HA no way in hell and one might just start so i mean there is no reason to go all out and start tearin ecu's out

yea your wires should go like that unless for some reason you have a 6 bolt swap or a 6 bolt CAS, then you would need to go from 4123 to 3214 on the pack. so does the car actually start?? is it just really rough sounding when it is running if it does or during cranking???

yea about that whole puttin it in the fornt o2 spot... its a wee bit hot there and though it will work for a bit the sensor is over $100 and is designed to be 2 to 3 feet from the head. these things dont like heat or race gas as ive found out, well leaded race gas haha dont ask. But if ya want...

you should probably check to make sure nothing from your valve mashing got into the oil pan and is playin with your crank and also do another compression check now that this started maybe something went wrong since the last one where it sounded like everything was going smooth??? did you replace...

yea these cars have enough problems with crankcase fumes, leave the pcv where it was and just run a filter or an oil catch can inline with your hose that should be tapped back into you stock intake arm.

yea i mean if you haev a sensor in your cutout piping it will work great as long as you put it a few feet bakc from the head, the fact that you have no real exhaust doesnt matter, the only ? that people like to bring up is how you tune off an external wastegate or o2 dump, like i said i jsut...

...well either way you want it to be a bout 2 to 3 feet from your head, but i dont really know with the whole dump issue, i run a dump and just tune the car from what exhaust is still going through the pipe, i mean shit my car runs great times for what it is so it must be alright to do...

yea i fried mine doin an o2 sensor when i hit the altenator and i lost like radio and heat and i dont believe it would start, but i know we lost it in my buddies 1g and it killed the motor, its kinda hard to see the fuse from the top of it but you may be able to tell, its one of those square top...

and the no power may be the MPI fuse, it should be a 100 amp fuse that is bolted in to the fuse box.

well if you just stuck on the not starting and you got power back it ###### because to didnt switch the spark plug wires for the 6 bolt swap, if you dont all she will do is spit and back fire a bit while you crank it..... it usually goes 4123 on the packs it need to go 3214 with the 6 bolt, well...

i have both damn near as my avatar shows and i love my talon with the 2gb talon front and everything else is 2ga talon including the tow nail wing, i dont like the 2gb talon vains down them, but i did put a talon high rise on my 2ga eclipse with the 2gb eclipse front bumper... haha its different

i wouldnt rule out a boost leak, if its stock maf it is a good possibility, i know mine was stubborn when i first bought it though if it drives good but just wont idle then i guess that could be ruled out. could be trottle position sensor, if its gettin worn it might not be reading fast enough...

Hmmm well like they said make sure you check those fuses on the battery terminal i have had it twice now go out, its like an 80amp on 1g and 100amp on 2g, otherwise you said you have no spark on any cylinder right... all 4????

so do you have any way of tunning and any way of monitoring/ data loging??? you really need at least a Wideband and a GM MAF and Trans, or AFC, the first thing i did to my car even when it was stock was Wideband and re-tune, but yea definetly sounds like you need some more fuel and injectors...

Yea this is a very common problem with the swap, no body KNOWS this, if you have spark and fuel, which you said you smelt is then this is your problem.... its always good to note things as you remove them because on a dsm its most likely that someone swapped something so its no longer stock and...

Well i have had an account for awhile but never really used it so now that i actually want to get out of the newb static i figured i would say hi.So i have been around dsm's since my first car... non turbo 1g, had 2 of them, then i put them together and ended up in the end blowing up my...

ok well it also (besides FUSES) could be your power transitor, the black skiny thing on your intake mani, could be an ecu, or could just be you coils hate you..., well if you lost spark on all 4 then most likly not, if you did blow a fuse she would never start not be intermietiate, sounds like...

DSM, custom Plymouth Laser - turbo"This is a fast car, has turbo XS Bov"I needs me one of those or my car will never be this fast!!!!1991 Honda crx si 152ki dont get y people even put up "no joy ride" when its a bone stock car that has 0hp from factory, it may be clean but hell ill...

honestly i have talked to some pretty big names in dsm's and a few of them say it even comes down to improper clutch adjustment..... if its to much the fork and throw out bearing are always puttin a slight amount of pressure on the crank, in hand pushing it towards the front of the motor (timing...

i guess the whole having a potential fast car car in the club makes this guy scared!!!, DAMN HATERS!!!

AHHHHH.... the dsm way of life....bench pressing tranny's on a cold oily dirty floor!!! haha the good old days till i got the engine hoist and car hoist:hellyeah: