Well its defiantly not sealing at that point then, I know the waste gate I used to run had a sealing ring that if you didn't install it would leak just like yours is. Exhaust leaks = no/poor boost

Keep it up man, I bought my '97 Tsi in similar shape, all sorts of head scratching and wtf were they thinkin when I started digging into my car. I gotta tell ya man, I had the same manifold turbo and wastegate setup when I bought my car (shown in my pics, need to update) and I had nothing but...

Hey fellas, I'm using a safc on my car and I got it to where I'm happy with the a/f numbers under boost but on cold start ups I have to adjust the setting on the safc to make it idle and gradually move it back to its former setting as the car warms up. Is that normal? I kind of thought that...

Yes, the transfer case is bolted to the transmission. There are 6 or 7 bolts, remove them, jimmy it away from the trans and slip it out of the prop shaft yoke. Then your trans should come out. I installed my 2g auto trans first before the engine was finished.

I'm having the same issue. No power to the blu/red wires on the tcu harness. Also no power to the blu/red power wire on the selector switch on the trans either. According to the wiring diagram these both are powered by the same wire off of a junction block, other then that I have no clue how...

Yea it does come out its one bolt on the side of the flange. Unfortunately I've had the engine and trans out twice on this car and I know the guys I got it from had it out a couple times as well so its likely that the harness being moved that many times and hung and stuffed outta the way could...

Hmmm, mine has a IPT converter and a shift kit and its always shifted at about 6500. I have an AFC2 (eww) but it shows the TPS value and with the pedal to the metal it reads 100% and still a little early on the shifts.

I got one other question. I snapped the speed sensor that comes up through the rear trans. mount when I was removing the engine. I've replaced the sensor yet my speed-o-meter is still dead. The trans worked fine for many miles this way. Is that the speed sensor that runs the trans? Or is...

Nope, white smoke could be coolant, meaning head gasket. If your burning enough oil that it smokes out the tail pipe it will be a blueish color and the smell is unmistakable. Coolant is going to smell sort of sweet. Oil will not. However if enough oil is passing by the rings or through the...

Ninjas for sure. Nope didn't do any messin' around just parked it after a spin one day and about a week later it was limp mode. One thing that is really odd is the A/T temp light coming on dimly while reving the engine. The only info I could find on this is someone told me the A/T temp light...

I have checked the comm. wires between the ECU and TCU they are fine. I have also swapped the TCU for a know working unit. I have also opened up my ECU and the caps are all fine, smells fine, and there are no noticeable shorts.I'm really at a loss here. No signal from the obd port screams...

Try another O2. They dont live forever

You also need to stick a screw driver in an access hole in the block. The oil pump to shaft gear ratio isn't 1:1 you'll have to set engine at TDC, rotate the oil pump untill your screwdriver sinks in. Then install the belts.

No jayson427 limp mode is 3rd gear.

Thanks a bunch for that diagram. I'm assuming I should follow the same diagnostic procedure? That's a nice diagram this ones gettin printed for future reference, the color ones are so easy to follow.

I've got a 97 Tsi AWD Auto. Go to drive it one day and i've got nothing but 3rd and reverse. It's in limp mode. Also when reving the engine the A/T temp light comes on dimly. So far I've tried checking all the plugs on the trans, they're not mismatched the car was driving fine as is and all...

End clutch isn't too big of a job.

I am feeding oil from the OFH to my 14b. Will that cause any issues?

Do you have the same information for a 2g. I'm having the same issue. Also on mine the A/T Temp light comes on dimly while reving the engine. Does that mean something? I have swapped the TCU, and I'm certain all my plugs are in the right spots as the car operated normally for many miles as...

Same deal here, new engine, all stock, mains and rods plastiguaged great, BSE kit, revised lifters. I see 90-100 psi on cold start, settling to 25-30 at warm idle. Is that 25-30 psi at idle going to hurt anything? I know porting the OFH will take care of the high pressure at higher rpms but...

yea it has a 2g engine mount but a 1g ac belt tensioner, odd combo

Thats kind of how my car was when i bought it. First time i pulled my engine there were only 3 bolts in the bell housing, the two holding the starter and the one near the front transmission mount. I had no choice but to tear down the entire engine/trans. More of the same there, missing bolts...

Those Magnus manifolds are nice pieces.

Hello, i've got a 97 Talon Tsi AWD auto with an ipt converter, shift kit, although don't know what kind or whats been done to the valve body but can tell driving it its not stock, also high friction 5 disc front clutch. I'm currently finishing up a low budget engine build using a stock 7 bolt...

what can you tell me about the line pressure mods (i have a 97 tsi awd auto) has ipt converter, high friction discs like what you got 5 discs, and a shift kit, now i don't know what kit they used and i've never done one so i didn't open up the valve body when i had the tranny out of the car...

ahh, i was wondering that as well two, but after looking at the first couple pictures, note the brass fitting in the background, it remains pointed to the right, but the sensors were opposite.

i know you can use those pistons in a 2g, theres more info on these "frankenstein" engines at thedsmgraveyard website

first off, you should always use a new tensioner, but if there was insufficient tension (and it takes quite a bit on these motors) its possible you skipped one tooth while driving, and 2 or 3 more while trying to start it again or when the pistons made contact with the valves. get all the timing...

either pull the ecu fuse or unplug the injectors, take out the spark plugs (less resistance on batt and starter, and turn the key, turning it by hand wont flow oil.

you could remove the starter and have a look at the flywheel that way but you wont see much more than the outer gear ring, if it has an inspection cover find it and look in there but if its shaking that bad your probably going to find the issue with ease during removal, just pull it.

at least get a wideband, then you'll know if your fuel system and ecu is keeping up and making the proper adjustments, but there is a limit and a piggy back system (afc) is an inexpensive mod if your not comfortable with modding the ecu (vlink)

could also have a leak in the intake manifold gasket, or anywhere on the pressure side of the turbo would do that

well during my research i found that there are lots and lots of tdo4h turbo's, minor differences in wheels and housings and in oil feed and cooling line configurations. for instance the dsm tdo4h has a 14b wheel is oil and water lubed/cooled the greddy tdo4h that my dad picked up for me (and...

quick question, got a 97tsi awd auto, my old man picked up a turbo a front mount intercooler and a bov for pretty cheap, he wanted the intercooler and figured i could use the turbo, and if not from what i read honda guys run these turbos so no lost cash there, its a tdo4h 14g, (i poked around...

look for wet stuff like they say, if you car is old/dirty enough you might not see the slave failing, but its relatively cheap and easy to replace, check inside the cabin under the dash, drivers side, look for the master cyl leaking(probably isn't its in a cleaner environment) bleed till the...

i good junkyard is ## best ally for oe parts

same thing happened to me, i am thankful to have been in my jeep and not my talon at the time tho, $200 jeep on fire isn't really a big deal.

when ## puttin together a new motor, dont wait for the starter to make sure your timing is right, turn the engine over from the crank with a 1/2" drive wratchet if it binds (valves nailin ## pistons) do it again, if u dont bind turn it through a cycle, intake,compres.,combust,exhaust if ##...

check ## rings, just tore down a motor one of the cyls was 120 ish others were 135 or better and the #1 compression ring on the hole was in like 6 pieces.also there is a line that runs from your valve cover to a sert on the intake, to vent crank case gasses, on my car when i bought it they...

hey when ## re rebuilding it if you still have balance shafts in it do those bearings too, they relativly cheap and ## oil pump is gonna send garbage straight to them.

i got a 97 tsi awd with a t3t4 and a pretty beefy auto high friction disks shift kit and a performance torq converter, looking to run a stock manifold and an upgraded turbo want more drivability but still run 25 psi, dunno what kind of turbo would suit my needs best any ideas?