I had a good time in NY, unfortunately there was not much time to see more of the city but we were on the mission to get the car running. The car is a beast, I'm glad to see another dsm is brought back to life
No that is not usual or normal, whoever installed that timing belt before you got the engine did a really poor job. It is also possible that they did not set the timing belt tensioner correctly and the belt has skilled few teeth. Looking at that picture you posted, with the cams sitting the way...
Couple things you need to check. Is your base timing set correctly? It should be set to 5* you can ground it through ECMLing to set it. If your base timing is advanced a # of degrees then that # will be added to the # generated by the ECU and the engine will run more timing then you can see in...
Sorry been a bit busy so didn't have time to get back to you, I hope you figured out the problem with your car if not then again I would suggest looking in to that 7th wire to the MAF sensor. Just because someone says that the 7th wire is for the boost gauge does not make it true, and here is...
Your drive shaft doesn't just go out of balance unless it got bent. You might want to check the carrier bearings/bushings on the drive shaft. If you can put the car on the lift and check to see how lose are the bushings on the drive shaft, it should be fairly snug. If it seems lose or the drive...
DSM MAF pinout - Mitsubishi Forum - Mitsubishi Enthusiast Forums
2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4
Here are few sites that show the wire layout for 1G MAF. My guess the one wire that you don't have connected is the one that goes to Idle Position Switch, which has nothing to do with the factory boost...
I think there is a difference between a turbo and non-turbo MAF sensors. The turbo MAF will have 7 pins and the non-turbo will have 6. If you converted your n/a car to a turbo, you will need to use a turbo MAF and run one extra wire from the MAF sensor to the ECU. Here is a page that might help...
If you get a new gauge and your vacuum is still high (23+) then you might have a problem with cam timing. Check to make sure that your timing marks still line up like they should.
Agreed :thumb: also knife-edging cast is bad idea because cast after many heat cycles it has a tendency to crack. The knife edge would be a weak point and the last thing you want is a piece of metal going through your turbine wheel.
It's also possible that your down pipe v-band got warped when it was welded to the pipe, take it off and check it, you might have to put it on a belt sender to get it flat. Even though its smaller it should still seal.
I've ran HX35/40 hybrid on my brothers DSM with 12cm HX35 housing on a none divided manifold and I want to say it would hit 30 psi at about 4500 rpms in 3rd gear. HX35 12cm housing is about the same size as bullseyepower (BEP) .70 a/r T3 single scroll and this housing is proven to make serious...
So I did some more research on this whole IDC and I have to say that my assumption that IDC is based off of 180* of crank rotation was wrong. Few weeks ago I sat down and did some serious math calculations to put this whole thing in perspective.To find out how much fuel you need to generate...
If the reverse light switch is the problem then just back it off 1-2 turns and try to put it in reverse, if that does not fix the problem then its something else. Considering the problem you described I don't think its the revere switch though, if that was the problem then you couldn't put it in...
There is a 12mm head bolt that is almost directly above your clutch fork, its directly inline with the shift tower. Pull that bolt out and check to make sure that the end if it, (untreated part) is not wore out or broke off. That bolt prevents the tranny from going in to unwanted gears when you...
Welcome to the community, me and my friend tristen (aka dsmcurse) are both from tri-cities. I have few other friends that are DSM guys but both their cars are down now for the build. Maybe I'll see you around town sometime.
I was a bit distracted when I wrote my last post so I didn't refresh my screen for a while :D I know this information but that still leaves me with a question I stated above.
Whatever dick measuring contest some of you guys want to get in to I'll leave that up to you :thumb:First of all I never said that I was right and if you guys read through my posts you will see that several times I use a word "think" as in what I think. If my way of thinking about this whole...
I didn't say the explanation given to me was wrong, I just said it contains no detail except that's its a generic statement that we all already know and agree on.This is the information that we all agree on.Partially I agree with this as well but this still does not explain how the...
So why don't you enlighten all of us on how the whole injector duty cycle works but please don't tell me the same old shit that everyone else has said. So far none of you here have posted any solid evidence that shows that my way of thinking is wrong. Only thing I've seen so far is a simple...
Very well put and I agree with your statement but that's just a general explanation of how it works. It does not explain how much of the RPM duration is considered to be 100% duty cycle for the ECU, is it the time it takes an engine to make 180* 360* or is it the full cycle of 720*Here are few...
Yes the best radar detector is not speeding. I've been there and done that, you don't gain anything by speeding but you do gain a good chance of loosing and potentially allot.
You ask anybody who knows what they are doing and they will tell you that during engine assembly they use engine assembly lube and most times they use more then they have to. Unplugging the injectors and pulling the plugs is all you would need to do. I've done this plenty of times with 0 issues...
Yes I agree and that's why I think the ECU could not measure duty cycle over 100% because the new cycle would start after 720* of crank rotation. How can the ECU calculate 115% duty cycle or pulse width when it never sees the ending point of that pulse width? 100% would just mean the injector is...
To me that don't make sense. How could ECU read over 100% duty cycle if the injector is already open and the ECU has not giving it a commend to close. The ECU would not be able to calculated duty cycle over 100% if it never tells the injector to close, it would just reach 100% duty cycle meaning...
If 100% duty cycle was based off of a full engine cycle then that would mean that the injector would open at the top of the intake stroke and remain open throughout the intake, compression, fire and exhaust strokes. If that was the case then due to cam duration roughly 25-35% of the fuel would...
Also pull the spark plugs, this will take the compression load off the engine allowing it to spin faster, more rpm = more oil pressure. Like Wes said you will probably not see any oil pressure on your gauge but if you crank it for 20-30 seconds then that should get oil at least in to your...
Some good info here but I would like to add something to it. Keep in mind that your AFEst is directly related to the maxoctane table in direct access, so whatever cell values you have in maxoctane table that's the values that will be displayed under AFEst in open loop. First you have to setup...
Also some people forget that its not always about how much it cost but how well it works, there is a reason why they're nicknamed a "work-horse" I've been a holset fan since like 2004 and see no reason to switch to something else.
Stepped means that the flywheel surface where the clutch rides is at a different height then the surface where the pressure plate bolts up. If the flywheel has been machined its important that the machine shop steps it properly. If its machined to deep then the pressure plate will not have full...
If the flywheel is new it shouldn't have to be stepped and when you buy a clutch kit it should come made to fit factory specs. Now assuming all that is true and you have bled the system of all the air and you still have a problem then you need to check your paddle assembly. As you already know...
Right on man, I've been wondering when you were going to get that thing to the dyno. Are you going to post up the results? I definitely want to see what that turbo will do on your car :thumb:
4800-5100 rpms? Yeah maybe in 5 gear :) on a 2.0L engine in 3rd gear, I would guess you will see 35psi of boost by 5800-6100 rpms. I used to have BW S362 with BEP .70 ar housing and it spooled 200-300 rpms slower then 6 blade HX40 with the same exhaust housing. My friends HX52 inside a BEP .70...
First look at your shifter in neutral position, it should should be relatively straight up, if it looks like its leaning forward to much then you will need to make adjustments to the cable under the center counsel. You will have to turn the adjuster on the cable in such way that it shrinks the...
If you have a hard time finding something that will work with stock fog lights then I would just get whatever intercooler kit works best for you and just replacing those 20+ year old fog lights with some after market ones. You will have to custom mount them, and if you get good ones they will...
I think if you go to advanced reply there will be an option to attach a picture or a video, you should be able to do it from there, if not then just post it on YouTube and post a link to that video
Your clutch adjustment would not have anything to do with your transmission making noises. If the clutch was not bled or adjusted properly you would have hard time putting the car in gear from a stop and in between shifts. Now if you don't have this problem then your hydraulic system is bled and...
Welcome to the community. You made a good choice of car, yes DSMs require attention but if you maintain it, it will last you a long time.I've been friends with your son for some time now and he actually told me about your broken turbo, I've seen pictures of it and its not pretty :) I spoke...