Well sorry for not posting in a long time. I have been slowly chipping away at the car in my spare time. Really busy with school and the house!Update: Suspension is completely done, both front and rear subframes were coated in por-15. The engine bay is painted black and the seam sealer was...
That looks like a great option, and very good price. The only downside to that perticluar pump is the fittings (hose barbs) are only 3/4 inch. I am running 1 inch hose (-16 AN ) because that is what size fitting is on the intercooler.
Hey guys, I am in the process of plumbing my liquid-air intercooler and I need to pickup an electric water pump. I was wondering what brand/gpm you guys (that have liquid-air) are usingThanks guys
I am also building a 2.3 and after reading through many many threads and reading up on different brands and part. I decided to go with kigglies and kelford 272's. I used the ferrea +1 valves with new guides and seals from super tech
Exactly! E85 is essentially race fuel at the local pump. It is not as expensive to switch over as people think, you can make it rather cheap if you wanted to!One common rule is to always build your fuel system large than what you need so that cannot be your limiting factor. My fuel system...
made entirely from afco parts.. theres a vfaq on themI am running the BW s259 with the .70 T3 housing.. which is the little brother of the 362. This car is not going on any road trips and if it does it will be on a trailor. When I say street legal, it does not mean dd; it means that I will...
Hey guys, im a little late on starting this and I should have been taking alot more pictures that i did, but better late than never right.I have a 93 laser and have completly tore it down and started from the ground up. I am looking for low 10's.Project setup: 6 bolt 2.3L with eagle...
My buddy paid about 65 bucks to have his head hot tanked and new valve stem seals put it. But that price included the head to be disassembled and reassembled. Price also does not include the valve stem seals..Every shop is going to be differenton rates, your just going to have to give a...
Dont wast your time paring for the ichiban.. i ordered these a while back (25mm) to give me room for a set of VR4 brakes/rotors on my 1g...and my buddy got the EXACT same wheel adapters from ebay for about half the price...
There is only two nuts on tie rod end and ball joint and the two bolts on the strut that you need to remove to remove the hub. Just get it out of the way instead of trying to work with limited space
allright.. so it is left/right instead of front/rear, for the prop valve. keep me posted on what you use. I am going to mount it next week at some point, not in to big of a rush. car is still apart
our master cylinders have a two piston design. One piston controls the front breaks and the other piston controls the rear.. They do this incase one of the pistons fails, you only have 2 tires malfunction and the other two will still work. This way it is a "fail safe" break system.I havent...
yeah, I have installed staging breaks on a couple mustangs and a nova, but never an awd vehicle. I wasn't sure how you guys were seting them up. That was the only way I could figure out how to lock up all 4 if needed
Hey guys,
I have a staging break that I used on another car that I am going to use on my 1g, but I am not sure how to plumb the staging break for an awd setup. I have looked around and found paul's thread about them but never really stated which way he went with it. Talk also has a thread...
thanks vette, i'll just have to source out a q45 harness plugand my profile is nowhere near up to date.. i am not a newb, have been working on my build for 2 years now and think i would do nothing but benefit my setup.
Hey guys, about to get a Q45 TB and had one question about the wiring. For the tps, am I supposed to splice into the pigtail on top of the tps, or do i need to get plug from a Q45 and use the plug on the end of the tps.. thanks guys
(read the 7 page merged thread and there was kinda oposing...
with a stroker, your going have to have the crank clearance done.. expect anywhere from a $600-1,000 dollar machine shop bill.. i.e. boring/honing, crank clearance, deck the block, bake/clean block, magnaflux, balance rotating assembly.. stuff adds up.. just keep that in mind
the tigging would be really the only expensive part, and you don't need custom end tanks to be made. Cut the inlet/oulet off, cut a coin to weld those holes shut, take a hole saw and cut two holes on outside of the tanks and get two peices of pipe welded.. NOT difficult. Intercooler piping is...
looks like piping would run right through the rad... take it to a welding shop and get them to weld the inlet/outlet out the sides and weld the existing hols shut and you could use that no prob..
I did this on my 1G and the pressure was fine.. As long as you have the bigger bore MC you will be fine.. Just throw some ss lines on there and you'll be fine..
Never heard of them to be honest with you. But just from the statements that you made >>> "It is a transmissions and a transfer case shipped to my door for 619 I mean its real hard to decide here because that is hellicheap. Any thoughts."Unless it is just a used transmission/TC like you...
im pretty sure your headlight fluid is a little low. :thumb:Anyways, I would grab a bottle of injector/fuel cleaner (i perfer lucas or seafoam) and run it through your tank. It could also be a bad tank of gas (high water content)
the compression ratio is mainly based off the piston... the top of the piston is the ultimate factor, the same amount of air/fuel is going to be in the combustion chamber when piston is at top of it's path.. so to increase your compression the top of the piston must be raised or "domed" thus...