thomcasey submitted a new DSM Profile :GVR4 866/1000Read more about this vehicle here...

Yes, it is. Not sure what is going on with it, but I found that the problem with the car running right was actually being caused by the crappy OmniPower 4-Bar MAP sensor that cam in the ECMLink kit. I removed it and replaced it with an AEM 3.5 bar and she is back to normal.

I am having this exact same issue. Did you ever get it figured out?

^^^^With that said^^^^You are seeing a decent amount of knock starting @ 5000rpm, AFR's go lean a few times (once @ 5282rpm you see 33.2, other times you are seeing 12.5-13.2). Timing seems to vary a lot too. definitely post up a log we can visually see.I highlighted some area's of concern.

As long as the car goes to the recycler/crusher without a drivetrain (in most states), then you should have no issue disposing of it. Of course, you might still wanna run a VIN check with the police to verify it is not reported stolen.

If you can pull the pedal back up by hand, then you may not have tightened it down enough after the rebuild. You need to work (it ain't easy)and get a 14mm socket in the tube and on the nut. Make sure the pedal is all the way up and crank down on that sucker to get it tight. I had the same...

Sounds like the spindle or the mount is bent.

Just get the $99 ForcedFour box, install a 3G Eclipse GT Slap shifter. When you slide the shifter over into TipTronic mode, full line pressure is ready for manual shifting. Slide it back into standard/auto and line pressure is stock. I have a write-up that I did when we installed it into my...

Letting Link simulate it works well. Car goes into closed loop faster, seems more accurate for logging and is probably the best thing for the AEM. Please note, the AEM is VERY SLOW when logging with ECM link. There is a reason they recommend the LC1/LC2 from Innovative. They update very fast...

Price is way too high. Any 17+ year old car would be way cheaper, unless this is stupid clean and way below 100k on the clock.

Why not guy and install a LSD in the FWD transmission? As AWD transmissions are NOT LSD from the factory, you would only be increasing your costs

Port first, then decide. The HLA will not help pressure @ the rod bearings. IF you run too high pressure all the time, you will smoke your bearings. Oil does more than lubricate, it also cools. ID the pressure is too high, the oil will pass faster than it can cool. I am running a fresh motor...

AWD flywheel is 106 teeth, FWD is 110. It is enough to make the starter miss or grind if using a FWD tranny/starter plate and an AWD flywheel. and Have you checked all connections? There are connections at the water-neck that if disconnected, can give you a no start. As you stated you replaced...

There is a Fuel Filter in the engine bay. Follow the left side of the fuel rail. The line there goes to the fuel filter. It is a black canister.

Does it do it with the AC off? If you are getting idle surge that usually points to the ISC, regardless if it is all the time or just with the AC on.

Try this too http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=INTICR400225&Category_Code=Acc-Silicone

If your motor is stock (cam and such), a properly sealed system will idle @ 20-24/hg vacuum when warm, just an FYI.If you were to get a Greddy Electronic Boost Controller, that lower nipple would be used by it. It allows pressurized air from the compressor to press on the bottom of the...

you need to wiggle both the DS and the exhaust at the same time. Normally there is a "thump" when a carrier bearing is going out, the sound you indicated is something hitting it

Definitely. Also note that the 420a never went out of North America. Anything exported out of the US (the ONLY place they were built) was LHD and 4g63. So, if it was a non-turbo, it was an NA 4g63. Also, like 99% were FWD. So, his move with the EVO driveline gives him access to parts galore.

Sure they did. See the quote at the bottom. Get a real gauge to see what the pressure really is, then start at the oil source (pickup and oil pump) to start.

I ran 23lbs on my e316g. Pretty sure that about maxed out my injectors, but the WB never read over 10.5:1, so there could have been some room to grow

I have bought two of the systems, they work flawlessly. both are 2 years old and still look and perform perfect. I avoided the cat issue and purchased megan racing "resonators" and a proper downpipe. all bolted up direct with no leaks or rattles. Both are 1g's.

Pretty much. I went the evo 560 route with the 2g MAF rather than the RC 550 route and the 560's have the exact same deadtime (0) as the stock 450's and it screamed with a e316g. My son ran the 550/2gmaf combo with no issues for over a year

Many have run a 255 with the stock FPR without issue. As long as your FPR is in good shape it should be fine.

Here is my DD/Sleeper:

You might also check your fluid level in the tranny. If you are too low, the shift forward in fluid could rob the system making it unable to hold the gear. Since you have a 2g, your auto tranny will have the lockout TC, fluid loss could cause it to unlock, which will feel like a downshift.

Wolf Alchemy, you will kill your turbo with the drain like that. Though the bearings are fed under pressure, the drain is essentially a gravity drain. If it has to flow up-hill, you will have a flow problem and either lose your seals in the turbo OR coke the oil and wipe out the bearings...

$3400 from Autozone, just get yours rebuilt or hit up Buschur or Magnus. http://www.autozone.com/powertrain/engine/eagle/talon/1991/4-cylinders-u-2-0l-mfi-turbo-dohc

That is true for just a completely stock car. Even stock our cars are too rich @ WOT and can be tuned better. What I am stating that this will work just as a stock car until they can get a tuning solution. And it isn't just me, there are TONS of people who have done, do and will do this. Much...

Incorrect. the 2gMAF reads differently than the 1gMAF, requiring larger injectors. Evo 560's with the 2g MAF in a 1g is an awesome mod, one of the earliest. pair these with a e316g, afpr, boost gauge, wally 190 or 255 and a wideband and have a happy 20lbs boost all day long. Ran this for almost...

My daily is a constant draw when they spot the intercooler. Whenever I pull into a station to get gas I just pop my hood loose to save time cause they always want to see what is in it.

Or you can throw in a 2gMAF in place of the 1g MAF and it will run like stock

Friend with a Summit AWD Auto wagon can build 19psi @ launch just brake boosting. He uses a VW/Audi vacuum pump in place of the booster when at the track

How are you brake boosting? Do you have a 2-step setup? Once you take all the mentioned above steps to make sure your motor is healthy and safe, you need to practice brake boosting. Should be easy to build 10-15lbs at the line

DSM Drivetrain cam from the Galant VR4, without the AWS (essentially a mix of Cordia/Tredia-Galant VR4 stuff). Then they discontinued the VR4 in the rally area and went lancer due to the smaller size and therefore better performance in Rally (The Galant is HUGE compared to the EVO 1-3)

He is in San Francisco, no snow there

You can also hit O'Reilly auto parts and get a Thrust muffler. very short, and 3" in with dual 2.5 out

Also, if you are new to turbo cars, you must know that your right foot can greatly affect gas mileage. How often did you "get on it" after you bought it? also, was the drive completely highway or was there some city in there?My Colt gets 38mpg on the highway and 28 combined city/highway. BUT, I...

With the kiggly plate, you shouldn't really need the pilot bearing, but if you want it, you can order it from ExtremePSI for like $13 and install it.

Well, a WOT pull from 50-60 in 5th @ 23psi will roll some too, rather than drop to third. Either way they get drug

I get it all the time in my colt. They especially like to "try" and prevent me from entering and exiting the freeway. It is awesome to have them try it @ 55 or 60, and I leave it in 5th and punch it. I get by them with ease while rolling coal into their open window.

Then he got the motor from a 95 that had the 6-bolt swap in the past. No mystery

Scratch 95+ Eclipse GS and insert Eclipse Convertible. As for the tranny bolting up, the 4g64/4g63 can run the same transmission, it will bolt up.

You can't run 750's without being able to tune the car, way to big and you will run pig rich. Put some stock injectors in and see how it behaves.

It isn't open, he has a compression plug in it

That depends. 1g or 2g?

It is possible. I would make sure you have the correct "tuned for" fuel in it and then clean all your fuel filters and see how it does.

I would move away from the ECU and look into making sure your filters are clean. E-85 clogs them up, and 20 minutes of no run time could be enough to let some of the gunk fall from the filter

YOu could probably swap out the front hubs, but your rear drum brakes will be the stopper. Look for some GVR4 wheels. They are always out there