If you can't find a new one to buy and you want it fixed you can find a local machine shop to weld material to fill it and then they can cut it back to flush. To get rid of the divit. I would take a measurement with a caliper (before you have the work done) to check there work after you get it...

The machined post that the tensioner arm rides on also can wear and caused the issue you're havin, as jakk220 has said in above post. So just keep that in mind if you replace the tensioner arm and you're still having the issue. Below is a good thread link on the issue...

MotoMattx is correct. Wire it however you want to. Take the risk its not my car. What's going to happen if the welding wire that you're planning on using some how shorts to ground in between the alternator and fuse block? Especially with the oil/power steering soaked engine bay that 98% of these...

This. http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.netI don't know if you can get it to work with that cable though. Maybe with a palm emulator. You can always make your own cable there's instructions on that site to do so.

For some reason I thought this was is 7 Bolt.In my experience on the two cars that I replaced the tensioner arm on it was from slack in the belt misadjusted tension allowing for the Piston of the tensioner to repeatedly tap the tensioner arm flange. The Talon that I put 75000 miles on and...

Try extreme psi. Says it'll ship in 24 hours. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22225

Something is off I've never seen a tensioner offset on the tensioner arm assembly like that. It's partially hanging off. And it seems that your crank trigger plate timing mark is off (little low). Did you use an after-market front case? How did you verify the #1 Piston was at top dead center...

It is premature detonation (knock). GET A LOGGER!!!! (Last time im going to say it). Your eprom was flashed for your set up, and it also converted the stock boost Gage to a knock gage. If you see that gage move get out of the throttle or your going to damage your motor. You shouldn't be romping...

First off I'm going to say if you have never done anything like this before you’re going to need a factory service manual. That’s going to list all the procedures step by step and all the specified torque values for all fasteners. It would also greatly help if you have a friend that has...

It does, but I'm pretty sure we all know that he's just going to slap it back together and hope. Just trying to give him the best half measure way to do it.

+1 ^ this.

Do the test I linked buy bogus SVO to see if the valves are bent and not sealing in the seat correctly.

Yes the top piston in your picture and the top left valve relief. But like I said it's hard to tell from a picture on the internet.

If you're going to pull the the block and disassemble you might as well freshen it up with new rings and bearings and have The Machinist check all the measurements and clearances.I think he's referring to the valve relief on the top cylinder in your picture. It looks to me like it's just...

The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and cylinders and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is) clean out cylinders and debris. But you really should remove the block break it...

Rebuild/weld clutch peddle assembly. As bastarddsm already said.

Here you go. Also you could always put a resonator Upstream.https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=12229

What kind of exhaust do you have on your vehicle. Is it one of the Megan Racing or generic eBay brands? If so purchase a Magnaflow or or Dyno Max Muffler that still is free-flowing but muffled and welded in place of existing Muffler. It will quiet it down quite a bit and give it a deeper lower...

New York is pretty strict. What I was saying is in my County/City they have a noise ordinance and every and all vehicles have to stay below a specified decibel level no matter the make or the model. But I have rarely heard of a cop enforcing the rule here. Unless you're running open headers on a...

My guess is he's not going to want to put forth the time and effort to show you this information.

Take him on the offer go down to the station. But don't drive your DSM down there. Ask him to show you exactly the statute where it is written. And if the law says loud and excessive exhaust is prohibited, that is open for interpretation. Ask him to show you exactly where it states the decibel...

Lmao! +1 :thumb:

Your mechanical timing look spot on. So that doesn't seem to be the problem.

Your mafs is is fine as pauleyman has said. Your flashed tune on that keydriver chip compensates for the extra air from the removed HC. See your posted pic below. where it says (NO LOWER H). It should say HC (the C has been cut off) HC means Honey Comb.+1 . Your timing is off Either the MECH...

I started using E85 back in 2007 to 2008. Back then it was a new fuel to a lot of people and definitely to me. And also I was tuning on a safc with 650cc injectors. And experimenting with mixing different ratios of 93 and E85 mix because of the limitations I had with the 650 injectors. Hence the...

Was wondering if you were just doing research to figure out what injector you were going to need to run e85? Because i saw in your profile you are still using 450's. What kind of tuning device/software where you planing to use? Link?

I must have misunderstood the questions and the thread. In the calculation I use the specific gravity of blend is 0.78465. I use the tester to get the ethanol content so I can make adjustments based on the percentage of ethanol from tank to tank. I also mix e85 and 93 because of the limitations...

https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Fuel-Technology-36-E85-Sample/dp/B007ZJ749OTest per tank. And make adjustments per content.

Old age, power steering fluid leaking on to the alternator from above, and Heat from the exhaust.

Here you go. http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.netI use it, on my old eclipse made 338 to the wheels on big 16g, safc, WB, 650’s and mixture of 93 and e85. With other supporting mods. Got the job done for free and $100 for the safc. A lot less Mony than the cost of link. It was a fun DD.

(From the manual.)Each AEM UEGO sensor is individually calibrated and a resistor integral at the connector body is laser trimmed with this value. This process replaces the traditional “free air” calibration procedure when changing sensors and implements a sensor specific calibration for...

.The very first thing you need to do is get some kind of logger. At least mmcd. Sounds to me like your TPS is way out of adjustment. Start there and I bet the problem will clear up. A quick search for TPS adjustment and how to check ignition timing and mechanical timing will give you a ton of...

Double check for exhaust leaks, at the manifold to head, manifold to turbine housing, turbine housing to o2 housing, and o2 housing to down pipe. Best way to do it is with a smoke machine. But you can half ass it by having a friend block tail pipe temporarily and listen at the junctions I stated...

One is the neutral safety switch (the green black and black wire), the other is the cruise control disable switch for the clutch pedal. Did you start by checking the main fuses and relays ? Is this the car that you replaced the ignition key tumbler assembly in?

Here is your problem/issue with the adjustable timing light and waste spark ignition. Read this post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/timing-belt-question.515660/#post-153676020 So set the timing light to "0" and adjust to 5btdc on HB. And then you could try setting the dial on the gun to...

Glad to hear you you sorted out the mech timing. In reference to the hiccup you are having at 5500-6k how much boost are you running? What plug are you running 6's or 7s and what is you gap set at? i would check them and adjust a bit before adjusting the CAS after you set it at the harmonic...

How and when did this start? Was it after you were working on the car? Or was it when the weather started to cool off? Or did it appear out of no where?

What is you CTS reading on the logger from completely cold to normal operating temp?

Well your supposed adjust/match timing using your timing light to the timing value you see on your data logger.

Just giving you a heads up I would replace those capacitors before they start to leak destroy the board. Those are the original caps. And I don’t know what’s going on but it looks like there seems to be some surface / Trace damage to the left bottom of ic104 driver. Could just be the wax coating...

I just saw that you updated your dsm profile and that you are using dsm/ecmlink. When you are grounding the ecu to set timing are you using the ground timing/diagnostics connector found under Misc. Tab in V3 in ecmlink? Instead of grounding the connector on fire wall?

Fill out you dsm profile so we can see what your set up is. Boost leak test to at least 15psi using soap and water and spray all possible leak areas. (Do you have a Logger) is any of the data values off for any of the sensors MAF/IATS, TPS, CTS, O2 voltage, ISC, INJP? Verify the TPS is adjusted...

40 here. Got my first DSM in 1997. Before that had been into 80's 2.2 turbo daytona's. Surprised at how many old timers are still active on here.

Ok just want to make sure of some info. You verified you were on the compression stroke when you brought the #1 piston to TDC by putting your hand or a paper town over the spark plug well to verify it was pushing air out (pressurizing) right? And when you reinstalled the CAS you lined up the cam...

You could do the same measurement with a dial indicator. Mark the harmonic balancer at the moment of the beginning of the dwell and at the end of the dwell. Then split the difference.

The OP was asking about electronic timing after he replaced CAS. Not mech timing (although it always doesn't hurt to check it when having issues) but his car was fine till he replaced the CAS and reset electronic timing.

Do it however you want. Just because you have done it on your engines depending on the design of the tension system and lucked out with the 4g63. Doesn't mean you are not risking jumping time on cams because of slack in belt and spring force on cams by rotating it backwards. Your taking...

This is a bad idea, never rotate the crank in the opposite direction (counterclockwise). You will risk jumping mechanical timing. Instead use a dial indicator with an extension to find true top dead center. Or use a long screwdriver and Visually observe it when it stops moving at the top of the...

I would assume so. I think you could put the manual ignition lock cylinder in there right now as a auto, you would just lose the safety feature of having to put your automatic in park before you could remove the ignition key.

Shift lock override safety so your car (automatic) has to be in park before the key can be removed. Manual doesn't have this safety feature.