thanks man, this post saved the day for me. i was diagnosing the same problem, my tach read 0rpm at idle. luckily i have a gsx parts car and switched out the PTU and shes back on the road. :thumb:

Boost controler is the whole way turned down still hitting 14 psi and then I just noticed a bit of boost creep in higher gearsIts not missing or cutting out anymore but still all 3 codes keep coming back. Haven't replaced iac yet or blt

bro i got my tsi awd for 3k with less miles than that.i would keep looking

what type of bov is on it? i would just recirculate that one if its a quality bov. would be cheaper.

Hey first off here are the codes i read with an obdII scan tool -P1400 Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction PO505 Idle air/control Motor Malfunction P1105 Fuel Pressure Solenoid Malfunction (turbo)4g63tCleared the codes yesterday and they came right back overnight...

yeah its definitely salvageable, cant beat the price either..its not recirculated but who cares, its a greddy!:rolleyes:

If I were you id leave it alone lmao

Your filling it up after every time it overheats? Its gotta be leaking somewhere, did you check the oil for coolant and vice versa?

# 2 sold.heres an engine bay pic for the first one :hmm:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/tilerTHPS/phodto.jpgi think im gonna keep looking.

Go to google and search "search craigslist by state". Really great for when your looking for a car and don't mind traveling a little ways.Didn't want to put up any pics for the discression of the seller. I can post some look a likes when I get home though, posting this from my droid, at work.

I've gone through literally thousands of ads, newspapers, classifieds.. #2 is the ONLY one ive found under 3 hours away in my price range (and not a complete pile of shit). my budget is roughly 4kI wasnt planning on ####ing anything up.this is what i was thinking, just needed to hear it from...

Buyin a new dsm.. ive got it narrowed down to 2 for the time being.1. PURPLE/BLACK 1996 Talon tsi awd, 108k, stock motor/trans, PW, PL, power sunroof, tint, 3" turboback, boost controller,greddy type rs bov, act 2600 clutch with less then 1000 miles on it. new tires all around. Needs visible...

its fine at idle. knock starts around 3k rpm or so.Update:forgot to take a video, but i pulled the plug wires one by one, and when i pulled #2 and revved the motor there was no knock all the way through the rpms.is this a sure sign of spun bearing?

Aight..Suddenly, yesterday afternoon.. while easing the rpms in my gsx up to around 5k, i recognized the utmost disgusting noise... some mother f6cking engine knock. to my surprise, low and behold in my rear-view mirror lie an enormous cloud of beautifully tinted blue smoke. The aroma of...

thisim having a very similar problem. except im also experiencing a sh!tload of blue smoke at high rpm/boost. thought turbo oil seals at first until i heard the knock. i dont think its a coincidence that i got the knock and smoke the same day?

If it wont jumpstart, its not the alternator.If its not an electrical issue its probably the starter.

The 420a avengers and eclipse are almost the exact same car. The interiors are IDENTICAL. I Just recently sold my avenger es 6cyl of 4 years :( They really are decent cars. I was a little involved in the avenger sebring enthusiast club (aseclub.com) and have seen many eclipse front end...

^Thanks for the info, i think Im just gonna go with -6 pump to rail kit when ever i upgrade to a 190 or 255. Also the sputtering was fixed by fixing a fuel leak lol.

If the dealer only wants 1800 you could probably get the same car from a local seller for about a grand.Would you really want to invest the time and money of turboing a $1000 car?Wait for the gst, or start looking at 1g's.

Point taken. I did drive it today around the block, didn't feel like the tranny dropped when i stopped or anything and obviously no wheel hop because its awd but it really seems fine. But I'd rather be safe than sorry so.. in the garage it goes!! :(Edit: Unfortunately I don't have a welder so...

Its an automatic. I don't plan on beating the piss out of it or anything, I just need to get around town :/

Well when I tried to removed the front transmission mount, well the 2 bolts that bolt into the frame under the radiator, they just twisted the entire piece out (rusted). So its gonna be a while until I can fab up a new piece to weld under the radiator to bolt the piece to so I can reinstall my...

I took mine down to the metal and painted flat black. Looks a million times better, but I will invest in some new trim when I get the $$$.

dude this is so haggard.

Sounds like its operating as it should. I wouldn't' complain.

97 Eclipse GSX AutoI recently replaced my burnt up transmission, and in the process changed a lot of other unplanned components. Like my broken fuel line. I believe the stock metal fuel line is 3/8" ?I replaced my broken fuel feed line like this: fuel pump > 1/4" hose > 1/4" metal line >...

i beat the #### out of my car too much to have something this clean!!!

If you haven't already I would highly suggest a boost leak test, as well as a leak down test.

You have to use a pair of vice grips.

95-99 ECLIPSE/TALON GST TURBO N1 CATBACK EXHAUST 96 97: eBay Motors (item 300424431130 end time Jun-03-10 14:24:34 PDT)Like look at this one for example, it clearly states gst, however the picture looks more like an awd.

Thank you.There are a lot of "Eclipse turbo" catback's on ebay, any way to tell from the pictures or anything if it will fit?

This looks like its for a fwd..95-98 ECLIPSE TALON GST DSM CATBACK EXHAUST Turbo: eBay Motors (item 200472376104 end time May-23-10 21:45:26 PDT)would it still fit AWD models?

I think you answered your own question here.

This is an excellent idea. I never even thought of relocating the fuel filter :ohdamn:. I'm kind of in the middle of getting the car back on the road, and even that 80 bucks for the fuel system is gonna take away from the other NECESSARY parts to get this thing rolling. I hate being broke...

All answers above are accurate.Testing with the car not running, you are getting the reading directly from the battery only. Which should be In the 11-12v area. Testing with the car running is reading the voltage output of the alternator, which should be around 13-14v.Sounds like your...

Well, for starters I wasn't even going to replace my fuel filter, but I might as well since I have it out. I was trying to remove it to get a little better access to the rear transmission mount. Anyway, while trying to remove the fuel filter, I twisted and snapped the metal feed line that...

Well I'm doin' a tranny swap so I wont need the parts for a while..I'm just gonna have to cut the axle and replace the hub/bearing and axle altogether. If you have a knuckle and wheel bearing w/hub and spindle I would gladly meet you and buy them off of you, and then just buy a new axle...

Do you have to call mitsu graveyard? I've never dealt with these guys and I couldn't find the part online.

^Yeah this is funny because now I have to replace my passenger side hub and bearing... when my drivers side has needed to be replaced since I bought the car.DSMGraveyard wants $149 for a USED axle. I didn't even look at wheel bearings. Found used knuckle full assembly's w/hub on ebay for $40-$50.

I dont have torches but I beat the living #### out of it with a hammer, didn't budge, and now there is definitely no saving the axle lol. I went to advanced an got the heaviest pulley puller they had and put it on the hub and tried to push the axle out. Broke one of my socket wrenches tightening...

Alright, well I ruined both my axle nuts, and re-####ed my axle threads. Here's how;So after about a good hour of straightening out the threads by hand with a small hack saw, hammer, and chisel.. I finally got the nut to go back on right... well the axle is still rusted into the hub so i had...

welded with rust.. it took me 3 days of pb blaster soaking, and 2 broken breaker bars, just to get the nut off!

If you've never experienced a bad alternator, you would be very surprised to see how your car runs on low voltage. Just a suggestion, wouldn't be a bad place to start, especially since your having electrical problems...

I think that was the joke lol

check the voltage coming from your alt while running. bad alt voltage will seriously #### with your gauges, I know this from experience, especially the no rpm.

Mushroomed indeed.. front passenger side... haven't tried to retap or anything yet, just got a little frustrated at the exact moment I had a hammer in my hand. Worst part is the axle still didn't budge.I guess I cant #### it up anymore than it already is so it wont hurt to grind the end down...

Alright, so I tried to beat out the axle from the wheel bearing with a hammer, AFTER completely removing the axle nut. Yeah well now I ####ed up the end of the axle (threads) and the nut won't screw back on..... And the axle is still in the wheel bearing.Can I re-thread the end of the axle...

Just found that in the vfaq :thumb:Do I need to disconnect the drive shaft from the rear transfer case and then it just pulls out? I gave up on the axles for now and decided to start on the drive shaft.

Ah makes sense haha... As far as the torque converter goes, I'm assuming theres like an access panel to unbolt it, is it on the trans side or on the motor side and where about would I look for it?

I am looking into a 3" turbo back as well.. my setup is mostly stock as well. I'm doing it for the sake of future mods, but worried about boost creep. Any chance or this or will I be fine?