Looks like a t3 manifold/turbo. So standard t3 gasket and then bolts from a hardware store.

Yeah, I too drove around the park from about 530-630 and did not see a single dsm. I did finally locate Fred who was being driven in a taxi and then we continued driving around looking for people. We only found a family reunion and a church's single group lol.

I've had pretty good experience with the tools I've bought at hf. Don't waste $ on the extended warranty...usually if it's from hf and it's going to break it'll do it in the 1st 90days which they already cover.

The cobalt is alright...till you get drivin it hard and the electronic power steering overheats and you lose power steering...and prior to that the ecu starts takin power away...

LOL i like how in the email it says if you would like to buy this TRUCK

this might help sum Model Guide: 1G vs. 2G Comparison - DSMtuners

I've tried a few brands and so far my favorite has been Layalina...the flavor last for hour and a half or more easily.

at the same power levels yes...but the oil squirters help to prolong the life of the motor...i wouldn't say long enough to justify the extra 2000 but he asked the difference between the gte and the ge and the oil squirters are a difference

i believe their is a difference between the 2jzge and the 2jzgte...the gte has oil squirters where as the ge does not

yes they should be on the oil filter housing...thats where they are on my 91 motor that was swapped into my car.

have u tried looking for a fwd turbo eclipse cv joint? might be easier to find that way

also you could check ebay....thats lik it's own little junk yard lol

i've used some of obx's parts and from what i've seen they are usually pretty good quality

i'm at those same pressures in my 1g with 10w-30 oil

forsure replace waterpump but what color is the smoke? Blue, Black, white?

I've used Tokico a couple times and they seem to ride well and hold up good

take off the blow and take a look at it to see if anything is hanging up/sticking

make sure you check both the head and block for warpage and make sure the oem gasket was the same thickness as the metal gasket

i'd leave it unhooked b/c it's easier on the throwout bearing...but if you want it hooked up a rubber door/cabinet stop should do the trick

usually magnaflow are quieter with a good deep tone

sounds like timing since it happened when you revved and now it won't start at all

those look like a set of factory springs that have been heated with how they are a purplish silver color

What did you do with the wiring that was hooked into the flip switch? It might have to do with the security wiring in the car.

I have an xtd stage1 on my 93 gsx and it has worked great so far after 5000miles. Im stock minus a 16g and 190lph walbro fuel pump.

I cleaned the lines, checked the wires and still nothing...Should I try to hook up my adjustable fuel pressure regulator since it has a fuel pressure gauge on it?

ok thanks I will clean those out and check them over

ok i'll check my ignition and the fpr sometime this week and post up what I find.also how would i go about checking the fpr? Just make sure that the vac line has good connection and isn't pluged up with anything?

I have an afpr kit i bought from slowboyz and safc II waiting to go on the car...I wanted to get it running right 1st...It has stock plugs in it...I have a real wideband I can hook up I just gotta pull it out of my other car...also wouldn't a misfire cause a rich reading since the fuel would...

So i have a 93 eclipse gsx, with 6 bolt swap and 16g turbo at stock psi and 190lph walbro fuel pump, all done before i got the car. For some reason if I go over 5psi of boost I go lean to the point my afr gauge goes solid red the car spuders and won't go. I put in some 650cc injectors I bought...

I'd check the ecu also...I was having this same problem and it turned out to be the ecu flaking out on me.

they should be fine...i know people that have droped theirs multiple times and no problems

That is correct.

thats how i have mine wired...but i have prosport gauges so idk about defi

PROBLEM SOLVED...it was the wire that had got knicked on the fuel pump when the previous owner installed a walbro 190lph pump:nono: NEW PROBLEM...as i was driving home(like a grandma not aggressivly) the rear end locked up so now i gotta see if its the transfercase or the rear diff:cry::barf:

checked the signal wire and im only geting 9v not 12v...what are the olds that this is my problem?

fuse blows after about 30 seconds of cranking the car over but gets red hot instantly....when i test the signal wire i know i'll put the red multimeter probe on the tab the signal wire hooks to but where sound i put the black probe?

ok and the signal wire should be the black and yellow wire that is like 12gage correct?

starter has been tested several times...wires have been verified hooking to the starter...flywheel has been checked and is fine...battery is brand new as i thought that was the cause of the problem to start with...i had -Ax- come over and watch the fuse as i try to start it it lights up glowing...

i've had 2 different starters to try and same thing with both...i also pulled all wiring to the starter out and visually inspected it...there was no damage to any of the wires...then i reinstalled the starter and it still doesn't fire...i have replaced starters on dsm's before so i know i hooked...

yes the wires are connected correctly...it's only 3 wires kinda had to hook it up the wrong way

Ok so i got my 93 Eclipse GSX a few weeks ago. I get it home and go back out to start it and the starter made a terrible grinding noise and the car wouldn't fire. So i go down to advanced get a new starter and put it in. Now i keep blowing the ignition switch fuse in the main fusible link...