Log of incident

So my car runs tits on WOT within 2-3% of WBFactor on SD. The problem I'm having is when accelerating or WOT at 2400rpm to 3000rpm I lean out to 18afr then drop back down to 14afr before heading into the 13s. Everything in the log looks perfectly fine no spikes or knock. Afrest is on point but...

I havent touched fuel trims. The sliders start at 2 rpm. I adjusted some shit got my global to -47.3 dead time to 330. Results are combined ft +/-2%, LTFT lo 1% and STFT +/- 1%. Afr hovers around 14.5 to 15.

In all honesty a log won't help because its all over the place. I set my deadtime at 400 and was able to get STFT to 2% but my LTFT lo is stuck at 12.5%. Adjusting the 0-400hz sliders do nothing. Even moving the 500-600 hz slider does nothing to LTFT lo.

Right now I'm at 650 deadtime . I'm using the stock 2g fuel map. I'm running gmaf and fic 850. The starting point as they say it should stay pretty close to that but I doubled it just to get the car to idle. I've already checked boost leaks.

Question. I run FIC 850cc which at 43.5 fuel pressure and -47 global. My car will not stay running at the recommended 330 dead time its too lean. What can I do to get the car to stay running to op temp so I can adjust 50hz to proper STFT and LTFT Lo?

I got it to .27 but I had to set my deadtime to 750 on 850cc injectors. AFR cruise and idle sits around 14-15. Will be doing Lo Mid tomorrow.

775TSI updated 94.5 talonView updates to this DSM profile...

775TSI updated 94.5 talonView updates to this DSM profile...

Just rebuilt my entire engine top to bottom. While trying to dial it in at idle before I go break it in I can't get airflow per Rev right. Adjusting comp sliders seem to do little to nothing until I get up above +40 points which seems high. I have 272 cams BC springs valves wiesco pistons eagle...

Yes to all of the above.

So I know this is more than likely going to be moved but I'm getting no responses in the tuning section. I set my openloop threshold to the same as the guy in the ecmwiki and cruise around. Try to do the CombinedFT auto adjust for mafcomp and all it adjusts with a 20 minute cruise is give me a...

So I'm trying to bring in my combinedFT and MAF. After letting it log at idle a few times it came up with the final values of:CombinedFT: 1.2% LTFT Lo: 1% GM/REV: .18 AFR: 14.7 50hz adjustment: -24Now all of this seems legit except I thought the gm/rev was suppose to be .25 at idle on closed...

So I thought it was my lifters but I replaced them with 3g revised and same noise is still present three days after replacement. The equivalent sound would be a window rattle coming from the driver side. Compression test was as follows: #1- 115, #2- 128, #3- 126, #4- 125. I do have a puff of...

Correct. BLT passed no leaks. I had one at my Tb shaft seals but I rebuilt a second one I had on hand and threw it in. Boost is as normal at 20psi and vacuum reads within spec. I was thinking something more cooling related

So my idle is around 900. The more I drive the car the higher my idle gets while sometimes bouncing from 1k-2k only in neutral. I need suggestions.... Ready....go!

Only on startup for about a second I hear what sounds to be a metal rattle noise almost as if its a strap of metal flapping around the crank. This noise is fairly loud and almost sounds like the passenger side. Then while driving I hear as I pass a solid surface such as a wall or car, an almost...

I agree dsms have funny issues to them. My mtx-l is wired just like you said, wideband is set to rear o2, power and ground to ecu (red and black) and my narrow is wired to front o2 ecu (brown) and I put my switched to the radio. Just odd that I don't see high idle on cold start. I'll have my...

So my car has no open loop idles at 1k afr on wideband 10.9 on initial cold start. Driving is 14.2-15.1 idle on neutral 800-900 what can cause the loop idle to be so low?My washer fluid bottle motor stays on 24/7 even with car off (currently unplugged no splices in harness). Why?Srs and...

Sweet info really appreciate it. I've been reading ecm as we uhh speak? Blog... Lol

775TSI submitted a new DSM Profile :94.5 talonRead more about this vehicle here...

I've been reading a little here and there and most articles feature a key phrase of "calibration" but doesn't say anything about how to. The main article I'm reading now is http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/general-info.443300/ and I'm curious if there is literally a book or full fledge article...

Getting a parts list together to order in a few weeks for my rebuild, just curious if i can find these parts cheaper.Brian Cower 272/272 cams - $423.84 BC Spring & retainer kit - $235.87 Wiseco forged 9:1CR w/ rings - $442.72 Eagle H-Beam rods - $345.95Total shipped: $1455.88I really...

I have the vr fmic and I'm about an inch shy between the j pipe and the rest of the piping. Is there an actual fmic j pipe? Its a evo3 16g turbo.

I have socket ecu and someone who can tune so I'm good on that. So skip on injectors? My manifold now is cracked so I need to replace it. I'll keep the factory o2 but I've kind of always followed stage1 path upgrades.

Mods already: Manual BC HKS exhaust intake & filter Hard pipes with 1G crushed BOV Stiffer shifter bushings Blouch 16GOrdered: New manifold gaskets ARP Chromoly turbo bolts New intake filter****Questionable ordering:**** AFPR kit Exhaust manifold o2 housing dump or recirc no idea Boost gauge...

trying to find turbo bolts OEM or other wise on websites and can't seem to have luck. Anyone have suggestions or part numbers?

Well the question here is. Is it ok to drive around with the belt off? I answer no, its never ok. There is a reason for that belt to be there or there wouldn't be one. Others will argue but again there is no evidence to point in either direction. In cases like this it becomes a drivers choice.

I have been told by a couple mechanics that running a car without a power steering belt will cause your pump to fry and long term damage to your rack. Essentially without removing any other part except the belt you are trying to force liquid through a system that is not operating and will run...

I would but since i just recently moved i have some how managed to lose almost 3/4 of my tools. From what i can tell a ITM / Clevite rebuild with machine work and labor for $1,500 is a really good deal and its warrantied.

Sounds like you found the component of your problem. If your fuel pump fuse has blown a couple times in a week and it has also been modified then you have your answer. Trace the "re-wire" job done for the pump and pull it out of the tank. Check for any cuts, splits, frays, ect...

Pull your ECU harness. Out of no where my car started acting like crap and almost stalling over every pump. Found out there was something wired into the ECU and was never sealed up so eventually some things made contact and started shorting. Next stop fuses!

I have always used K & N premium filters in my car and have yet to have any issues. I would bet money to say the person who had this car before you tried to tighten a loose oil pump with the filter way over torquing it. I have seen more times then not those oil pumps wiggle lose after some...

Back a couple of years ago i tried finding a 6 bolt. Spent about 6 months looking and couldn't even find a 4G63 in any local junk yards. I have found out it is not a crack but a main oil plug for my balance shaft. So as of the end of this month i am going to pull my motor and send it to my...

Where in the heck are you finding a Garret T28 for 750. Ive been looking for one and so far havent gone under 900$ shipped. I think this was FP who had a G T28 for 900$. Anyone know where to get one for less? 750 would be amazing.

Found one but unsure of company that supplies this dealer. Marshall? anyone heard of it... Engine is $2,296.05 shipped no core charges. Rebuilt 96 long block with Cam and Crank sensors.

PR downpipes for AWD are also on back order. I called them Thursday and they said they will get them in march 26th ish

Well thats the site i ordered my first one through, and i was sent an email saying its on back order with no ETA. I could cancel it or put my money towards another DP.

Well yea. I did the test with the engine still pretty warm to make sure the rings were fully expanded. I think im going to re test it one more time but this time move the crank while its testing to ensure all valves are close. But yes i used a really long screw driver and turned it till it wasnt...

well i was looking for Megan or OBX since im pretty much keeping the car stock dont need a gapeing 3.5inch DP when im running stock turbo, manifold, and exhaust piping.

well i was looking for Megan or OBX since im pretty much keeping the car stock dont need a gapeing 3.5inch DP when im running stock turbo, manifold, and exhaust piping.

Neither except my OEM temp gauge which reads normal 99% of the timeOk so tonight im depressed. Ran a leak down test first TDC was 1 and 4 Cylinder 1 heard air pretty loud out my turbo intake none out exhaust and a good bit out of my oil cap. Cylinder 4 was the same as 1 but i had a little...

Product Description 1995-99 AWD Downpipes Are Currently On Nationwide BackorderThat is every website i visit trying to find a downpipe. Out of stock back order and now a nation wide back order.... Anyone know about this?

And about my running issues, chances of those being a blown head gasket and thats where the liquid is coming from??

Long ass story on that part, and yes all my fluid passages check out except my head, cant see around that point.

well that would explain my low oil pressure and all but the fluid if you look closer it appears to be coming from more north and of course heading south.3 months ago when i did a comp test 4-3-2-1 i got 152 156 153 141 <-- thats the bummer. I got a fluttering vacuum idle my boost hits 15 drops...

Oh thank god. I was thinking someone got creative and tried to patch something with a screw. Moving on to where the fluid is coming from now.

Oh p.s. Could that fluid be coming from a blown head gasket? Oil and coolant in the same path is never a good sign seeing i have nothing over there part wise.

I picked this one because its the ONLY wet spot on my entire engine. My car has zero leaks but now this comes up and i am on the verge of a rebuild. I have googled several hundred pictures and have yet to find this 10mm phillips screw on any other 1g or 2g