Ok, an eprom is a different type of ecu that allows you to swap out the chip as required. You can open yours up and see what kind of ecu you have. 550's are good but for a 16g but for a 20g bigger injectors would be better. An Evo comes with a 16g and 550's so if you're going to be flowing more...

Look, A safc wont do anything for you if you are on stock injectors. You can't make them provide more than 450cc so until you upgrade your injectors you will run out of fuel. If you have a eprom ecu you dont need a safc. Hell, I could mail you a chip with a proper tune for what ever setup you...

That will work once you get bigger injectors, doesn't matter how much fuel you can push through if the injectors wont fire them off.

You will max out your fuel system around 4500k to 5k, regardless of stock boost setting or not you will have boost creep so you need to be very careful. I would invest in some injectors and fuel pump prior to installing the 20g.

NADA actually reflects a higher value price then KBB does.Sorry for your loss bro, some jb weld should fix that right up

Your car is very clean and if I didn't have a fleet of DSM's here I would certainly pick yours up. Unfortunately the demand for DSM's are not as high as they once were, especially 1g's. Everyone is moving over to EVO's and Subaru's that soon enough this site will need to consider changing names...

you will need to drain the PS fluid first, mixing the two fluids is no good.

Let me get you guys honest opinion.I have a '90 Talon AWD currently with an eprom, stock engine, FIC 1050's, magnus intake, FP2 cams and a 20g turbo. It is in the process of being completed and I would like to figure out what my best tuning option will be that will allow me to set it and...

exact same exhaustOBX Catback 95-97 Eclipse 4wd Turbo Stainless : eBay Motors (item 170386425373 end time Jan-21-10 08:00:29 PST)

Look at that vendors other exhaust for the same car, it says 2.25 you can also tell by the pictures and how big a difference there is between the piping and the resonator.

That piping is 2.25"

Would that apply to a 1g?

If he puts in a 2g ecu the car will start but with the evo ecu it gets no cas signal. He has tried up to 5 different ecu's and no signal, not even a garbage signal nothing at all. He has used the most recent tephra rom and the 96530006 edm rom with the immobilizer set to 0. I don't have the rom...

What could cause there to be no cas signal with the evo 8 ecu? My mechanic is trying to do the evo 8 ecu swap in to a 1g but when he does he gets no cas signal at all, should he drop in a 2g ecu it will start right up. Immobilizer is set to 0 and he is using the edm roms.

nothing wrong with brian crower cams, they're a good budget cam set. They have a mild lope at idle, not bad but you may need to compensate for it with a higher idle speed. Their cam profile is not as good as HKS or some of the higher end cams available but you will get performance gains from...

what brand turbo is it?

Amazing, all the new guys are saying go bigger but not saying do the proper maintance first. They're not saying make sure you have supporting mods to go bigger. It's like they're giving you an open invitation to blowing your motor.There a key rules to buying a used car, this goes for all...

It's actually up around your way now, the owner which is one hell of a guy just moved to seattle.

You keep looking at multiple places that are only providing a short block for 2k and up and I have provided you with contact information for the only DSM mechanic that is trusted in all of Dallas and Fort Worth. He could build you a COMPLETE engine for probably around the same price your looking...

also check your ecu for leaking caps or other damage to it

First thing, don't get anything from SBR. You will regret it in the long run. There are countless threads about issues with SBR.Second, your block probably needs a rebuild. What kind of budget are you working with? I see there stage 1 is around $2,200 not including shipping. For that price...

FP is the way to go and while you're buying that you might as well get a walbro from them for on $79 if you dont already have one.

I know a guy but he is in Orlando..if you guys are willing to take your cars to Orlando I am sure he could help you guys out. He currently owns 2 Starions and an Evo X

no since in replacing the fuel pump and injectors if you know they work. Your having a spark issue so you need to approach step by step. Spark plugs new? Plug wires? Something happened from the time you stopped it that night and the moment you put the exhaust back on. Retrace your steps and look...

The main concern I have with your issues is the smoke coming from the top of the head, that normally means you have blow by. I would do a leak down test or compression test to see if your rings are bad. Do an initial compression test on all cylinders then afterwards pour some 10w30 oil in each...

I dont think the smoke is caused by the exhaust manifold being loose and without a gasket. The OP stated that it smoked in the previous car it was installed in. The knock you hear is probably the beginning of serious rod knock, you would hear it initial start up because the oil hasn't fully...

man, my guy could build a stroker motor with awesome power for less then that. Mudpit Performance, Brian could build you a monster machine and have it shipped to you.

Megan racing is a great alternative for a person on a budget and honestly exhaust is just exhaust. There are no tricks to it, for you I would suggest buying a catback exhaust on ebay for like 300 bucks. Not only will it have mandrel bends which most exhaust shops arent capable of doing but it...

it could be that your flywheel has been out of place for quite some time and it just now grinded down enough to cause an issue. replacing the cable wont solve a mechanical issue like this. It may be time for another flywheel. Also, don't roll start your car...your causing the engine severe...

check the ecu to make sure its not fried, mine was doing the same thing it was the ecu.

temperature sensor

ok that one coolant line coming from the thermostat or what ever, is that turbo coolant feed line?now the oil line going from the oil cooler to the radiator sounds a bit off...on the 1g the oil lines from the oil filter adapter. Are there any on there that are messed up or wrong? is there...

mitsu housing and an FP stamp...I dont see the issue of needing another housing just get a fp manifold and run a tial wastegate and your in business

Hard pipes will not help with your tune, possibly response time from the turbo or a less chance of boost leaks. They make hard pipe kits for the stock intercooler but if your going for 300+ hp then your maxing out your side mount. cxracing makes a bolt on intercooler kit for like $300 that comes...

Dude is hyping up the car to make it worth more then what it is. Ask for receipts for all the parts and service ever done. RRE built the motor then he should have a receipt for it.

This guy has the best advice, simple diagnostics can pin point where your losing compression. Only 3 places it can lose compression...piston, head or head gasket. Do the oil in the chamber test if that proves nothing then do a leak down test by forcing air in to the cylinder and see if it...

Go to ebay...most companies dont make exhaust for the 1g anymore let alone a non turbo one...if ebay doesnt have one then your going to have one custom made for it which will still be around the same price.

did you check your pistons for damage? If its a loud knock then it would be coming from the bottom end...stick your ear down there while its running and you should be able to tell where its coming from. Knocking to me is most often a rod, you could have caused damage to the pistons and rods.

all those connections are from the automatic harness, if I were you I would source out a manual harness and swap it over. The connector on the tranny that has no plug is from the reverse sensor. Alot of hack jobs there but nothing you cant fix over time. The charcoal canister should have another...

No you can not, you have to have the belt on and if it shaved the teeth clean off then you had an install error. Replace it or remove the balance shaft.

I buy all my OEM parts from mitsubishiparts.comIts a mitsubishi dealership that has that website, its not refurb. Only other option is buying one from pepboys but I doubt you have that where your at. Go with the site I told you, you will get OEM stuff.

do not buy a topline pump, spend the extra money and get an OEM one

Easy way to check it out is to take off your oil filter and cut it open..if you see metal then you know where the knocking is coming from.

Your wastegate actuator is toast, it should have alot of pressure that pulling it by hand should be difficult. A MBC was a retarded idea, those only up the boost not lower it beyond the wastegate actuators specs. You can either order a stock replacement from the dealer which will be expensive or...

Ah, didn't know. Carry on then.

I think a bracket normally mounts to those two holes that hold either a wiring harness or something else there. I could be all the way wrong though.

Your car is going to run like crap if you do it.

I'm sorry, but going on 2 pages I still haven't seen the purpose of this thread. The OP is trying to say that he is such a ricer that he would rather have the BOV sound instead of a properly running car. Everyone else is saying that its stupid and I'm still here sitting confused. You welded in...

Bosch is probably your best option in comparison to the other brands. You could also try https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.htmlI buy all my oem parts through them and they are the cheapest I have found so far

edit: after doing some reading it would appear that the IAC is in charge of raising the rpm once a heavy electrical load is made such as turning the A/C on. Its not compensating for the load by raising the rpm so it might be malfunctioning.