It has to be your A/C compressor.Pull the belt and give the compressor a good spin by hand.Or...Get a 50405 belt (might be other numbers/letters before it depending on brand). Remove the tensioner pulley and use the adjustment on the power steering pump to tighten the belt. See if...
Probably ran low on oil a few too many times. Then a quick right turn will pull what oil is left away from the oil pick-up. #4 being the furthest from the oil pump will get the least amount of oil when this happens.
Your computer is on the driver's side of the engine compartment, between the power distribution box and the strut tower.Does your engine sound like it is turning over a lot easier than it did before?
Pull the PS and A/C belt and see if the noise goes away. If it does, check the tensioner and A/C by spinning them by hand. If it doesn't go away, pull the Alt belt and spin it.
I think that you would be putting too much of a load on a single relay to run both fans. You could wire in a relay and use the power going to your regular fan to energize the relay, which would then send power to the A/C fan from a fused wire directly connected to the battery.
You can put the 420a head on an older 2.4 block without any problems. You can't use the 2.4 crank in any 2.0 block.What is going on Nate? New motor not holding up? Or just thinking of something new to do?
If you could try this just to make sure that TS is working right and so is your MS.Hook the original computer back up while keeping your MS crank wire hooked up. See if you get a reading in TS.
1995 Avenger 420a with a oil pressure gauge in the instrument cluster. I have seen this personally.And the V6 and 420a both had the same sending units when they have a gauge.
Pull the pump off of the motor.Remove the two braces that attach the engine to the transmission at the rear of the oil pan and the plate should fall out.
This is just a cardboard template, but here is the idea. Having this creates a low pressure behind the radiator and FMIC helping with air flow. Might be something to look into.
Am I seeing this right? You have the BIG WG plumbed to feed the back turbo? Then using the internal WG of the back turbo to exhaust out to the open?Or is there another external under the back turbo?
Take half of that money and put it in the bank. Going to be giving it to the EX when shift hits the fan.Actually, if there is a lot of money involved, talk to a lawyer/accountant and see about setting up a Corp/Trust Fund. That way, when the time comes, the government can't get ahold of...
I would find out what pistons you have installed and use their rings. Different pistons require different rings.Still with that low of compression after adding the oil, I am willing to bet that you either have piston damage or head/valve damage.
You only need one wire powering the TPS. Having both of them tied together will confuse things. You could just leave the PCM powering the TPS and hook the MS up to the return wire while the return is still hooked up to the PCM. This will allow the PCM to control the idle and cruise if you...
Well, since you ruled out the laptop, might try a different USB to Serial adapter. I bought a Giga-"something" from Radio Shack that has worked fine for me.
I believe that if they purposely put the #1 cylinder at .006" because of the water pump, then they need to replace it, because that is just BS. Now if they put them all at .004" and then #1 went to .006" on its own, then that is another thing.What all did you have done? A bore and block...
Head over to neons.org and look up a member named Monday. His has been doing some badas5 head porting work. Just remember that the head porting doesn't stop with the head. You need to have your intake matched as well as the exhaust when you start getting into the higher extremes of the port job.