lmao, so so very true. ive seen some RIGGED shit, thats nothing bro. hell, when i was a kid i used non automotive grade bolts, not even 8 grade on a clutch. it grenaded and literally ripped the starter off the bellhousing lmao.
a cheap ass kid did that and didnt use the right bollts or torque...
you may want to be careful how close you place it to the radio. they put out a good amount of heat. and i can tell you heat is always the enemy when it comes to electronics. putting it under neath would be much better but just make sure it doesnt get roasted!
wow, im gonna step out of this one. i thought he had dsmlinkv3. i dont want to mislead the guy. sorry. ive always got my info from ecmlink.com/dsmlink/ecmtuning and it seemed to work when i set up some stuff in my car. what i said must not be possible with his setup, my bad. i defer to you, you...
if you put the wideband in the front o2 spot and only have ONE o2 sensor total you could use the front o2 pin which is pin 4 according to links website info. then use nb sim. but make sure your putting a wb signal(0-5v) in to pin 4. pin 15 would be if your keeping the stock front o2 AND a wb...
pull all the plugs and hook up a plug to a wire, have someone crank it and hold it by the RUBBER part lol, while you ground it to the valve cover. if you see spark thats good, if not, check all plugs and wires and make sure all of the arent getting any spark. IF your getting fuel and no spark i...
biggest injectors you want if you run link. aeromotive afpr. walbro 255. the kit will come with 6an ss lines. IF your NOT running link, i think the max with an safc is like 650cc injectors. i dont know though.
wait lol, is it even running right now? i would get it running first then worry about...
i ordered one a few years ago for my 420 turbo project. never even used it AND they sent me an extra one on accident lol. maybe i have the part your looking for. PM me and ill try and get some pics to ya. if you pay shipping, ill just give it to you bro.
yea, i was gonna say, your timing is very conservative in that pull. there really is no reason for knock. its coming from somewhere else possibly, like you said.
forget what i wrote, i just saw you DO have plxwb logged. missed it the first time. my bad
it does look weird though. just staying there at 10.2, not moving even a tenth til u hit the peddle. idk.
here maybe this helps? http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/installnewsensor
what he meant is all we can see is afrest, which means nothing. hell, even if it was right i would not rev the engine that lean dude. i just looked through a few revs at afrest and its far too lean. be careful please. you need to feed the wb signal to link. simple as that and get narrowband sim...
mine was under my battery tray. WAS. who cares about mpg anyway, this is a toy. its a weekend car for me. but i seriously doubt the mpg will be effected much, if any.
ok, to simulate narrowband you need to first tell link WHAT wb you have and where it is etc. go under ecu inputs and where it says wideband change it from undefined to what input you want it to go to. i have my lc1 in the front o2 spot so i selected front o2. i cant remember the rest but you...
looks like i have outlander brakes on my dsm lol, i bought it like that wondering why they were drilled/slotted and looked larger. awesome. i never knew that
just do a search of BLT or boost leak test. add in harbor freight and see what you come up with. they can be made relatively easy and cheap. i have never used one so i cant help with sourcing the parts or locating kits
i take a ton of pics and put bolts/nuts/washers in exactly where i took them out of, or if i cant do that, i label sandwhich baggies and lay them out nice and pretty lol. my system will be tested soon, lets see if it goes back together as smooth as it came apartwatched video and i hear rod...
your question about the bov venting: make sure the bov has a large tube connected to it and that it runs to the intake pipe before the turbo. i doubt its venting to atmosphere or else it would die everytime you let off the gas . ot atleast some times it would. you would notice that. im still...
so modest lol jk. ive got a question: i ran into a similiar problem, not having afrest and lc1wb not matching up. is that a mafcomp thing? im still learning too and unfortunately i can only read right now cause the engines still at machinist.
ok, like i said: adjust the maxoct table under direct access! open the log, click direct access, maxoct table, click track datalog, detach table and youll see exactly what "cells" your using at any given point in the log. these guys are brilliant really. its so damn simple. i finally watched the...
what he said. sounds like boost leak. if it only goes to 5psi then somehting is wrong. the stock boost solenoid allows for 11psi on 2gs
find out if you have a manual boost controller. if so, make sure it works properly and is hooked up right.
if it isnt boost leak, id guess a fuel filter...
have you adjusted mafcomp? i see your neg7% right off the bat. wouldnt that lean out ## idle afrs correct?
im guessing your not running narrowband sim. im used to square wave forms so i cant comment on your NBo2 function. tho it seems to be working.
also adjust you DA maxoct table instead of...
cant say for 100% sure but i think u answered your question, THAT is the line for either the BOV or fpr solenoid. im not infront of my car atm(and the engines out anyway) but i also think that the IM goes to the vac line on the passenger side of the solenoid, the other vac line from the solenoid...
well, i can tell you the PR kits are shipping this week. talked to the guy friday from punishment.as far as your issue: i would log the problem and see whats goin on first. check everything. check your afpr vac line. etc. etc.
you DO have link right? its in your mods list.
no shame in a cbr600rr maverick. i owned and loved my 03 for a couple years. wonderful bike, a bit clunky in the gearbox but for its time it handled great. i would personally track day a 600 over my 10r anyday. the 10 is too much power and the 600s are so light and flickable now. you see bmw and...
i would guess his fuel sliders are messed up because he did the same thing i did: he didnt adjust the DA maxoct tables. i think it was you, calan, who pointed that out to me when i posted a log once. yea you can see if you track it his afrest is leaner than what cell its using in the DA table...
cliff, i reviewed the log a bit. on a side note, i havent had much time to learn and get to play with link myself before my 300 mile engine bit the dust(bearings fml). i reviewed your timing DA tables. boy, ive got some tinkering to do when i get mine back lol. my timing is so insanely...
when i did my battery relocate, link did some crazy shit on me. would erase changes i had made, forget to log a ton of stuff, wouldnt emulate narrowband, wouldnt see my lc-1. list goes on and on. bad ground was the problem. they have to have a ton of grounds when running 1 wire(pos) to the trunk...
clutch, just curious but your mods list..... damn! dude, ## dyno doesnt reflect at all what you could have, right? i mean, youve got like a 650+whp setup going from jsut browing through it quickly. good job bro. im jealous!!!
got a carbide bit today for 22 bucks at a rural king. only place i coluld find that stocked them. took about 2 hours and got the outlet of the exhaust mani and all 3 holes of the o2 housing ported out and polished. doesnt look bad either. my turbo will be in next friday so ive only gotta port...
fix the issues first, then worry about performance. i dont believe theres anything off the 6 bolt that you can "swap for more performance". maybe the TB? not sure
you have a tranny/clutch issue. def resolve that first. the alternator i would say is prob on its way out. should have roughly 14v...
AMEN!! it comes down to lbs/min from what i know of forced induction engines. thats why im sure a t25 at 15psi and a 20g at 15psi would have an enormous difference in power. psi plus actual airflow, just like u said.272's seem to be a very popular choice. cant speak from personal...
bam, theres my problem. carbide bit. got it. im going to lowes tonight to see what they have. getting a good quality one. i have to port exhaust, o2, and prob the wg hole and turbo outlet(when i get it next friday). im going to have EVERYTHING done by next sunday. just waiting on machinist...
ok, first off. dont ever buy the grinding kit for air die grinders from harbor freight. you cut about 5 parts grinding wheel to 1 part metal. what a joke. id use them for polishing. where can i find a good tough cutting stone? im going to try the local rural king tomorrow and maybe head to...
if u really needa ton of parts off the other car, go for it. i mean if your missing shit everywhere it is nice to have a complete donor car to work with. if you can afford it. otherwise, i was looking at slowboy and you can get a built ass engine for under 3k. itll handle whatever you throw at...
u could just buy a built shortblock from slowboy or im sure theres othere out there too. i mean if you want it built for power right from the get go, thats a pretty good deal.