Not really that rare. I went through 4 of the 90 amp Mitsu' alternators from Checker (Kragen) Auto Parts. They had a lifetime warranty but just aren't able to last and changing them got old real fast. There are some who have been OK with the Mitsu' alternators but most have had continuous issues...

The top arm (to the engine block) should not be swinging. You set that one to the best position and tighten it. Once that's set you never move it again. Then you drop the adjusting bolt into the slot and tighten it until the belt is the right tension. After that tighten the bolt on the triangle...

I did a how-to that allows you to lock the tensioner just like OEM with the Saturn alternator. I've been using this setup for almost 2 years now with zero issues. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/452642-saturn-alternator-bracket-works-like-oem.html

Perhaps the surge was a bit lower rpm's but not much. Honestly it's been a while since I ran that setup so that is my best estimate from memory. To clarify it was a billet 20g in an Evo 7cm housing fitted with a tdo6sl2 turbine. Regardless, the surge was very obvious and I had to lower my boost...

The 20g is a great street turbo setup. In fact, i miss the big hit I would get with it compared to the relatively softer hit of my FP71HTA turbo. However, therein lies the one negative of a 20g turbo. Even with a TD06SL2 turbine wheel in a 7cm housing, I would get compressor surge once I started...

I think you are right. Thank you very much!

Buying a set of wheels on CL but not for the wheels (wrong bolt pattern); I'm buying them for the almost brand new (1 month old) set of Cooper uhp tires that come with them 235/40/18's. Wheels and tires for $400. Should be able to sell the rims quick for ~ $250 I would think. So, in the end...

There is a guy doing it with good results. Honestly, I think the small pulley option is a bit too small and likely overspins the alternator at high rpms. It looks like the stock pulley would be the best way to go being a little smaller than the stock Saturn pulley but bigger than the small...

I got the one-wire version with the smaller pully option and get 14.4 volts at idle and it stays there solid no matter what. Apparently there is some "theoretical" advantage to using the sense wires but my logs show otherwise.

Here's how I did mine. It's been working great: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/452642-saturn-alternator-bracket-works-like-oem.html

The spring should not affect idle pressure. It should take more than idle pressure to move that relief piston. Can't really hurt to try either way though. If it does end up being a bit too low at idle, switch the spring back. It's only a 5 min. job. FYI, you don't have to do a pull to see your...

Warm or full temp? As in driving for 10-15 minutes. When your oil system is setup correctly the most you should see is ~20psi at idle on a 4G63 (~15psi typical). I don't know if you idled your car to get it "warm" or actually drove it for a while but if you actually got the engine core to full...

Just from the title of this thread the first thought that came to mind was "small 16g".

^^^ This was awesome :thumb:

If you have a Big 16g or an E3-16g than it's just a simple swap since the exducer is the same size. If you have a small 16g than you just need to send it to Austin to have your backplate machined a bit. I had one done and the price was very reasonable.

I got one of the 18g wheels. Very nice looking wheel actually with the swept blade design and thinner hub.

Yes you can. Another option to clipping the spring is to add an exra crush washer or two.

^^^^ What he said. There is so much voodoo and misinformation being passed around when it comes to oil it's frightening. Ofen told by respected mechanics with xx many years experience. Want to know the truth? Read: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy If you would like to speak on the subject...

I know that Time-Sert makes an oversized insert called the BIG-SERT that is specifically for failed heli-coil jobs. Thing about Time-Serts though is it requires their special tools to install. Even their taps are non-standard sizes so typically home mechanics will use heli-coils. Most machine...

So a friend of mine who works for a fabrication shop in Lake Havasu told me about this guy who built his own track on his private property and was going to have trackdays. So I got the info' and called the guy up. Pretty cool guy to talk to. Guys name is Randy and he had just barely finished...

Not sure why we are seeing this much difference then. Guess it's time to make a trip to Vegas and put mine on a dyno. Only other thing I can think of is base fuel pressure but I can't believe there would be that much of a difference.

Timing is low because I have it very conservative right now (91 pump gas). Now that I've got my A/F dialed in I'll be working on timing now.Well, that's what I'm logging... I can say that I have carefully matched my supporting mod's for maximizing efficiency around 7k rpm's. Also, .1L more...

I've been very happy with it. I really dislike turbo lag for a street car so I had previously limited my turbo size to a 20g but then I started having a bit of surge with my 20g even with the td06sl2 turbine. So when the 71HTA was priced at $999 I had to give it a try. It spools very similiar...

Just got a billet 18g from hp turbo myself. Really nice wheel and spoke with the seller over the phone. Very friendly and knowledgable.

It is very clear that you can't physically go past 100% IDC when you consider that each cycle is just a slice of time. For example, say you divide 10 seconds into 10 equal slices of time or "cycles". If you are at 80% duty cycle then in each "cycle" you are on for .8 of a second. At 100% duty...

Been running mine a little over a week now. You're in Vegas? I go there every couple of months. I live out toward Laughlin.

Did a new pull tonight with the 71HTA with the correct settings in the MAP and BoostEst properties and now the numbers should be correct. Supporting mods are 2.4L, E3 intake, VRSF fmic, 60mm TB, and 264 cams. I'm seeing 48.3lbs of flow @ 20.1psi.

:banghead:I was WRONG.. I'll admit it. Sure enough, I had forgotten to change the display propterties for my BoostEst from 2.0L to 2.4L. So BoostEST was showing WAY high. After changing it and my altitude settings for the MAP display the two are showing within 1psi of each other now...

I know it doesn't seem to make sense but that is what I get in Link and nothing changed but the turbo. I have my actual and est. A/F to exactly lined up perfectly. With my billet 20g w/td06sl2 turbine the most I ever saw was 45lbs @24psi and I was at like 76% idc which seems about right. Even...

.. and nothing smaller available in a ported shroud that can be machined to a 20g I take it. Only available for bigger stuff for the Evo X?

Ya for sure it seems the magic setup for a 20g (for DSM's anyway) is either a TD06h in a well ported 6cm housing (rare to find in good condition). The other setup that would probably give you about the same results is a TD05H in an 8cm housing. The td06sl2 in a 12cm housing a a completely...

So it's not just me. All the little things burn up hours even for the Pro's :)

Hi-flow air filter, maybe a set of cheap eBay headers and exhaust. That is the most I would spend on a 420a and even that will only give you maybe 10hp max. Really, I would concentrate on looks (Rims, buff/detail paint, etc) with a car like that and if you want power, plan on getting a turbo...

A tdo6sl2 should surge slightly less than a to05h in a 7cm housing. For a 2.0L with big cams this may be enough to keep you out of surge with a 20g. Otherwise, you're looking at a true td06 turbine and also slower spool. To get a little more flow on top, I'm actually thinking about putting a...

When I ran the billet 20g (in TD06 cover) I started getting a little bit of surge between 3.9-4.5k rpms during pulls above 19psi. This was with a TD06sl2 turbine in a 7cm housing. Keep in mind though, the sl2 is not a "true" TD06, it is smaller, barely bigger than a td05 but with one less blade...

TJCTalon,I would really like to hear any update with regards to your TD06SL2 71HTA. I have used that turbine before on a 20g and currently use one with a billet 18g for my other (auto) DSM and it works really well. Is your SL2 turbine in the 8cm housing? I may consider changing my td05 turbine...

There are a lot of BOV options out there but the 1g BOV is hard to beat for it's price, function, and holding capacity. It's one drawback is that it will begin cracking open around 20psi. Until now there were really only three ways to address this (well, four if you count the Dejon Tool valve...

On my 2.4L I was over 100% idc using FIC 650's and rewired 255 pump with my 20g. Switched to PTE 880's and was only in the high 70's idc. A bit bigger than needed but glad I did because now I'm on an FP 71HTA turbo and into the mid 80's idc. I would say 750's are about perfect for a 20g; add 30%...

A "cool flip up adapter" is only your local wrecking yard away. All the late 80's Camaro's have them and there are a ton in the yards now. Should be less than $10 for one.AAAaaaarggg! That would figure. Oh well, I wasn't planning to go the the track for a while anyway. Guess I'll be...

Just "fixed" an improperly installed MLS headgasket on mine and replaced it with an OEM composite. The key I think for running a composite is using the best studs that you can. I went with the MAP Ultimate Duty studs,clamped it down to 100lbs, and it's been working flawless.

Yes, why? I keep a spare one in the car also.

Here's a pretty sweet way to mount your switch for a street driven DSM. I used a plate holder from a late 80's Camaro, was like $8 I think. I still need to label the "On", "Off" on there to be nhra legal.

I'd like to check out some pic's if you don't mind.

The Dodge/Gus mod has been around for some time as a very effective way to greatly increase the holding capacity of the 1g BOV. The mod accomplishes this by blocking the passage that normally provides boost pressure to the bottom of the diaphram. The only issue with this mod is that it works...

I can definately vouch for the surface finish needed for MLS. I made the mistake of thinking it was a bit over-hyped needing such a finish for MLS. I had read where some guys posted they ran an MLS with a standard finish and no problems so I wrote it off as being overly anal to bother with all...

EDIT: Since I posted this I have found that after reinstalling Windows and Link on my laptop I had forgotten to change the altitude in the display properties for the MAP sensor from the default of 0 to the correct value of 3,200 ft. This means the airflow I was seeing was not @ 19psi but @ 21psi...

Ya, I too have used zip ties, and even two pairs of vise-grips (clamping lightly to not damage belt). Anything that can hold the belt on (without damage) will do.

Edit: Just noticed you did figure it out. I'll still leave this though for others benefit.Do as ScuzziOne stated. I would suggest starting by laying the belt over the intake gear and then clamp (with the binder clip) it in place. Next use two 17mm wrenches to hold your gears in the proper...

Well like I said, if it was me, I would pull the pan and just drive my stock Talon in the meantime. Also, if I was the mechanic working on a customers car, I would for sure pull the pan. Truth be told though, these aren't fine particles, their little chunks. If he really had no money or...

You are 100% correct about non-ferrous metals and this was somthing I considered before posting. However a lifter is not made with any non-ferrous metals and there was no other damage observed so I stand by my suggestion. I will also add that the OP should be running a good oil filter such as a...