i replaced both controllers for a new turbosmart mbc...solved my issues right away thanks

I read both articles. What I don't get then is why does it boost up to 25 psi which is the max of wg spring really with my hks ebc. Then my mbc it just creeps to 15 then back to 10. Put ebc back in and can get 25 again. It's either 10. Or 25 depending which boost controller I use. So I don't...

Yes. I checked for leaks. I have built this car with taking no cheap shortcuts either. Like I said it was working fine. I'm just not sure what to check with my mbc or old ebc to see if something is wrong or broke or what to try next.

So I've searched tuners and Google and it helped while installing all my boost related parts. I also had this car tuned on the dyno at beyond redlines at 23 psi. Since then about 2 weeks ago my car went from controlling perfectly to 23 psi with no creep at all and holding steady with about 4...

thanks much. i watched the video and it seems very imformative.

ok so i just got done completely building up my 1990 talon. my mods list is current. i have a 90 body, 92 engine, tranny, and ecu. these are main things you need to know i thinkecm full 3.5 inch gm maf, with maf cable to ecm link. no translator. 2.3 stroker hx40 1250 pte inj. base fuel...

i am in the same boat as you are. i just put a 92 eprom in my 90 body/wire harness. there are also other things you have to change i think.

stock fuel system is good for 16psi boost max...rewired is good for 18psi on stock fuel pump...this is on a 14b though...a t25 flwos less air per psi i believe but wouldnt be too far off from the same numbers.

boost leak test is completed already forgot to mention that. all good on that part. tested all after i put all new gaskets in. i dont know where my scanner plug is for my car. i thought i read on here somewhere 1990 talons are different as in you need a buzzer and connect 2 pins somewhere and...

ok...Car is 1990 TSI AWD 5 speed...so i have a 3" GM MAF and MAFT 2.5" hardpiped upper intercooler piping. my GM MAF is AFTER the BOV. all new gaskets in throttle body and anything to do with exhaust and turbo gaskets... all brand new. i have 14b turbo 3" exhaust from downpipe to muffler. also...

ive read the threads of people not having 1st gear or no reverse...but no one seems to be lacking both, so here i go....ok...so i changed out slave cylinder and bled the system, put in act 2100 clutch, plate, and flywheel. i also put a different transmission in the car. all this was done at...

condensation happens with ALOT of different engines. if its not on the dipstick dont worry about it at all ifs its only on the bottom of the cap. i am a car dealer and see this quite often actually.

+1 on the silicone

at 400 HP you should at least get a re-build with stronger gears if you cant afford a race tranny

call the company and they will send you a new manual...thats what i did

if you cant drill and re-tap...i suggest doing all the work

do all size injectors take the same size o-rings as the stock ones?

i would also suggest a shop to tune it. as it is alot cheaper than the damage you could cause to your car

i would put an afc neo in as well

+1 on aluminum handles

i am pretty sure that when fluid has those grayish chunks in it, it happens because the clutch fluid (brake fluid) is under too much system pressure. i recommend changing the clutch master and slave cylinder. if you can fix it all yourself it isnt an expensive fix then replace all fluid too.

+1 on replacing the tie rod ends and ball joints. also recommend replacing the bushings in the rear end suspension. i was in same situation and i bought a full megan coilover kit for 750 shipped off the forums

you could take it in somewhere and have them make sure that it isnt a bearing of somekind

mine has been down for 2 months with tires off and brakes apart...waiting for time to fix it

use PB Blaster...it works miracles!

i have same issue too. i brought it to a dealership. they looked at it and said it didnt qaulify for the recall. and that was that. BS IMO

yeah, never mess around with boost untill you at least have an aftermarket boost gauge and you should have a wideband A/F too

i would try jeff's advice first

first off what engine is it? second you might be able to look and find some info in the forums with diagrams

yeah you should get 300 out of that car...but like they all said it takes the right tuning

scam anyways

if you dont get the price you want to sell it...then build it up!

if i was you buying it (im a used car salesman by the way) i would only buy it with a good price! dont give in!!! check for leaks, color of exhaust, rust on the frame etc etc. i would only buy it if you have enough money to replace/rebuild the engine at any given time. at least enough to...

MT-90 is recomended but i use royal purple 75-90

also the higher octane you run...the more boost you can put out to...thats one reason drag racers use race fuel.

+1 on FIAV blockoff

might be something wrong with your FIAV...try using a FIAV blockoff plate on the bottom of the throttle body**sorry...bad IAC...try an FIAV blockoff

try looking at a electrical diagram. might be one right in your cars manual. otherwise search the forums as i have seen them floating around

i dont understand either...try explaining it again

A professional shop will be able to fine tune it better than the average person can too

can the 1990 tsi use same as the 91-94 then too?

you can get aftermarket or OEM bushings from a local parts store for front or rear

dont be cheap...just buy a manual boost controller to make sure your boost is under control the right way as well as you will need a boost gauge if you dont have one...both are pretty inexpensive. i will also second the motion that if you do put an LSD in save up enough money and upgrade your...

I agree 100% with Turbo Monkey!!

if you buy a 3in downpipe just spend a couple hundred more for a full exhaust after that and be done with it. like Lemley said...its money well spent

As far as belts go too...i would recomend getting a GOOD belt to avoid any future problems...i use the Gates blue racing belt. its about 125 bucks but worth the price

as long as it is GL-4 rated it will work good...but some oils like the MT-90 are highly recomended for dsm's

the ecu should be on the inside of the car though shouldnt it?...that looks like its in the egnine bay

would you be able to send me the center radio holder thing and the clutch fluid resevoir cap? let me know thanks man

well...if you need any help feel free to ask and ill help you with what i can