I'm having an issue with the oil ring expanders for my pistons. Now I have measured the end gaps for the oil rings and they are good but when I put the expander in the bore and try to butt the ends together is is way too tight, actually doesnt fit. I put the expander on the pistons and they fall...

If it is turning over but not firing, there are many ways of testing it. I noticed you said you moved some wires and it started which tells me you need to make sure all you wires are thorougly connected. The ground wires need to be grounded to metal, preferably not alumimum or TB. The coil pack...

So now your saying it has bumped twice but not starting? I'm trying to find out the symptoms and you replied back saying yes nothing happens but then you say it tried twice but nothing. First, is the starter recieving power? You would know by either clicking or cranking and/or dimming of lights...

Not sure if you covered this but the hose that is coming from the firewall should go to the gas tank, don't block this one off, this will cause vacuum lock and starve your injectors.

So we understand correctly, your saying the starter doesn't even bump or sound like it's getting juice as soon as you turn the key? You said it turned once then stopped, I would check the starter fuse.

I would fix it depending if that is the only reason why it failed. Did they give you the Emissions slip explaining why it failed? Of course a leaking exhaust could cause it to fail but there may be other reasons as well. Just make sure its only the exhaust and I would say fix it, shouldn't cost...

I agree with most of the posts here but the thing to do at this point is test:1. Check the tension on the belt. 2. Clean connections up. 3. Check voltages with voltmeter, car on, car off.I would first think that it was your belt, if it's tight my thought would then be the alternator...

I would just like to re-state what I said before so no one misunderstands me. Now my statement might not be for this gentlemen here, from later threads it sounds like this might not be his issue but my thought before was from my personal experience. Three of eight engines (4G63) that I have...

Sounds like a broken compression ring. Also check for excessive steam in the oil filler cap and see if you can smell radiator fluid in it, if so you could have a blown head gasket. One way I found useful in checking for a blown head gasket is to smell your radiator overflow tank or inside your...

You need to check it. I will tell you that 2 inches, extra or short on the exhaust can be a nightmare. You will have to tweak some things but I don't think anyone will say yes or no that it will fit. You will just have to try it and see but like I said, you might need to fabricate or tweak it...

I agree, Porterfield has some of the best pads and if you want to break hard, R4E. If you want a good street pad, R4S is a good one. They last and don't melt either!

It's rare for a knock sensor to go bad but it does occur, be sure that you have a good O2 sensor. Your graph looks similiar to mine when I had the original lifters in the car. I replaced them with the 3G lifters and the knock disappeared. Your o2 reading don't look right at all, first, is the o2...

Most of the time it will be a leak at the TB. If you haven't replaced the seals in the TB I would recommend that but I'm curious, what is the range in rpms that the surge takes place, minimum to maximum? You may need to adjust the BISS but if you haven't touch it or replaced anything I would...

Put the car in neutral, get the rpms up to 2000 and then apply the clutch. Do the rpms go down once the clutch is applied? If so it's crank walk, sorry.

Hey guys,New to this site. My first DSM was a 90' Talon TSI (BLACK) automatic. I lived in Colorado for sometime and boy does the altitude kill the automatic. NO POWER! That one caught on fire, not sure why, and it completely burned to the ground. So I bought another one which was the 91' TSI...