I'm not sure on where to get the inner c clip. but the steel ball you speak of is only on the manual trans to retain the output shaft to the viscous coupler.
I torque the flex plate to crank bolts to 100 ft/lbs .
And the convertor bolts to 55 ft/lbs before and after the first heat cycle. I don't think the convertor will handle 100 ft/lbs of torque without pulling the threads. And the 1g guys can order arp torque convertor bolts for late model GM...
Not without extensive machine work. the stock 6 bolt rod uses a press fit wrist pin. the eagle rods have a bushing in the small end of the rod for a floating wrist pin.haha you beat me to it.
I like to use silver solder on most stuff im doing because it seems to flow so much better. i also like to put a little die electric grease on the solder joint and then use shrink tube over the top . if you heat the ends of the shrink tube before the center it will help keep the grease active on...
Have you already bled the clutch line when you changed it. if so try to re bleed it . but this time get under the car and push the slave by hand toward the pass side before opening the bleeder. this forces any air trapped in the slave to escape. when it springs back it sucks the fluid into the...
The input shaft is the one that goes to the crank , the output goes to the transfer case and the intermediate looks like a christmas tree . RTV ultra grey is the best i've found for sealing these transmissions. it is normal to have end play at the input shaft and the output shaft . according to...
The IPT boost controller modifies the pulse generator signal coming from the tcu. if the tcu isn't there then there won't a signal to modify. so basically the boost controller would be useless, unless you can figure out how to make a pulse signal.
from what im reach searching i need a ptw clearence of 0.35-.4 and my top ring 21 and my second ring at 25 and the bearings at .002-.003 is this right?like i said i dont want them to tight and i also dont want them over loose so i blow oil.help neededI hope that .35-.4 really means...
My set up consist of Ptw clearance is .0035
top ring gap is .021
second ring gap is .025
rod bearing clearance is .0025
main bearing clearance is .0025 to .003
The clearances i've listed are on my wiseco and eagle combo. before you use acl race bearings id have to ask if you are daily driving...
I realize this haha. i was addressing the post previous to the last post i made.What kind of rpm's are you turning on the engine? just curious. congrats guys awesome run's
for about a hundred bux you can buy a viscous coupler eliminator from shep transmissions or weld up the center diff. those are the only two choices i know of. here check it out. DSM AWD Driveline Products
Most of the transmissions i've seen grenaded like this were because of the center diff spyder gears cracking ,and running through the trans. sorry to hear about both sides of the story. i hope you guys get it worked out.EDit i just seen your trans is fwd not awd . scratch the center...
If you have added that much fuel and your still running lean id check your actual fuel pressure. from what the log shows it looks to lean for that much fuel. so i'd suspect you have a misadjusted regulator or maybe a failing fuel pump or a leak in the tank at the pump. just a thought
The heat cycle is from running the engine. Be careful not to touch it before you run it though ### grease and finger prints will be permanent until you polish it .
Check for carbon deposits in the throttle body. maybe you loosened up something inside it when you seafoamed it. before you do that take the throttle cable loose from the t body itself, and check the cable for binding and dragging. just a thought
Also look at the fluid. it should look bright red and some what transparent. always remember the more brown the fluid is the more green it's going to cost you. happy hunting :thumb:
The trans build is lookiing good so far. did you paint it with aluma cast paint or blast the case? clutches aren't bad to do. are you changing all of the piston seals as well?
JDM= just don't matter. DSM= dat sucka moves. and at the end of the day owning a honda is alot like coming out of the closet, your still G AY .
plus most everybody knows that the lug nuts have more torque than the engine. haha tell him to suck on that.
Just remember to do a true pie cut you'll almost always have two cuts 1 one each end of the pipe to make a symetrical vee. yes you have to take into concideration where your cut will end up that's why i make a little wider cut and then fine tune it with a belt sander. i also try to make it so...
A chop saw will work the best for fast cuts, band saw for more precise cuts but is definetly slower. the best thing i found is the chop saw in combination with a belt sander to fine tune the angle.
It looks like good old fashion oil starvation to me. possibly oil contamination. either way it's a bottom end rebuild. also if you do rebuild on this engine or any other going into this car, you should make sure the oil cooler is clean as well or purchase a new one. i've seen where people...
I talked to Mike Wohler at shoot out 2 years ago, and asked him why he was still running the stock coil pack. his answer to me was the car liked it better than the cop setup. and he's making over a thousand horse. just thought i'd mention it.
I run 4 bolts on my kiggly plate just find, but that's me. i believe that precision convertors offer an 8 bolt convertor. m bender has a lot of good info on this subject. just a thought.
Sounds like when they pressed in the bushings that they heated up the rod to hot . detonation causes pistons to melt not dents. sound like they screwed up and your gonna be footing the bill. just an fyi
Very nice work John. if you don't have one you might want to pick up a belt sander to make fine tuning the angles a little easier. just a thought from personal expierence. your work looks really good.
Pull the plugs off the ecu and do a continuity test from the pulled wire to the ecu plug. it should narrow it down some. sorry i didn't think of it earlier man.