Air always goes past turbo seal, make sure your doing leakdown test at TDC to prevent air going past valves. Is it bubbling in the oil?

If its a solid puck disc it could just be gear noise/rattle.

Glen and I think the same way lol " Hand me some more filler rod and turn that welder up lol"

Well I snapped my driveshaft again! How to snap a driveshaft dsm launch - YouTube , so I installed a DSS HD driveshaft. I just want to say I was blown away when I took the car for a drive. Theres hardly any noise or vibration, even less then my stock shaft. Besides them sending me the wrong...

custom for t3 hx40. Custom O2 - piece I made to connect to downpipe DSMtuners Gallery

That knock sensor of yours is in the wrong spot, your lifters/valves may set it off there. They come from the factory in the lower hole.

what kind of timing did you get away with on pump with your old 2.4?

I had the same setup as you and the same guy lol, building a 2g head thats going to our cubin friend for porting, and puting our oring setup on that one. I just dont want to spend the loot on this head to pull the orings out that are in it now, weld it, re oring it and do a new valve job( due...

Any reason you chose felpro over oem? Thanks for the post. Also 99 how far have you pushed composites without orings?

I used to run an oringed head with a mitsu mls, worked great for years but finally failed due to heat and abuse. I had to mill the head and since I am building a 2g head I really don't want to spend the money on removing the orings and welding the groves shut, valve job etc. So for now Im just...

Jackson auto, any reason why you say to fill the grooves with copper wire and not stainless when wanting to mill it down to get rid of the orings? I have stainless o rings in my head and want to get rid of them so my machinest is just leaving the stainless in and milling it down.

Well in a short story I let a buddy of mine take my car for a ride while I followed, needless to say he beat the hell out of it. After the 7th 1-3rd pull he pulls over and says somthing is wrong the power is gone and oil pressure is down to 15psi at idle, usaully 20psi. so i look at the data log...

Looked into this when I first built my motor, I was told they are the same part #. Let me know if you found out somthing different.

:hmm:, I may be in the running.

Ive seen them with a sticker over the metal tag, never just paper though. Justin will chime in

Link is only as accurate as the info you give it :thumb:

Those non cruise 1.8 throttle cables always come in handy to, also a manual steering rack. Im looking for one now.

Wow!!!!!!! That thing is moooovvvvviiiinnngggggg

And those stock ls1s love the shot, we used to spary my buddies old ls1 trans am with 175 shot and he was consitinly running 11.8s, put 4.56s in the rear and mt et streets and droped to 11.0s( i think), stock exhaust with no cats, stock converter, all was fun till the trans turned to mush lol...

nice runing car, any specs?

Its lower because hid drove the car a little better then you lol, good job. Ive been 13.7s@ 98 or 99 in my buddies fwd laser

This is very true ^^^^^^

Could the compressor housing be incorretly machined? Is there a rats nest or rag in the exhaust, dont laught ive seen both lol. Is there a cat on the car, I know none of us use them but ya never know

Sorry, thought you said a 4" inlet wouldent work with any maf. I mis read

[Putting a maf right against a turbo never works, even back in my 20g days, ive gone 10.4 with my 2g maf on my hx40 4" inlet dont talk about somthing you dont know about. I hate false info, yo need at LEAST 12in between trbo and maf, every turbo surges a lilltle :aha:

so true, just like a moped

Yea I think its comp that is building the oiless turbos, its not really oiless it must have some type of grease packed in the chra, self contained. If they ever get the formula right for the grease or whatever they are using its not a bad idea for a drag car. And you would definitly want to run...

Whats the oil pressure look like, can you get a mechanical guage on it?

I had a friends balance shaft bearing fall out and it sounded simalar.:hmm: And that bad lifter tick could be due to the low oil pressure from the bs bearing falling out.

Not that easy, you need the car or a jig. I have a jig for the 1gs 91-94, Ive built them for the90s also but never fora 2g

That stuff is for briggs and straton lawn motors, but thanx. Im talking more how to tune off of doing a pass and shutting down the motor and reading the plug. Like reading porcline for timing wot a/f, and detonation, ground strap for heat range and also timing. Also the base of the plug can help...

I really think it would be a good idea to have a thread about reading plugs for tuning. Last night I was helping a friend tune a bbc with a aem wideband but had a gut feeling the car was lean even though the wideband was saying other words, sure enough we may have saved his motor just by old...

Could you drill out the fp filter/restrictor?

I know how to make them but have no cores:hmm:

I knew that noise was gonna equal wheel damage

What he said ^^^^

You can correct that by hooking it up correctly. My old car was like that when I bought it but I looked around and found the correct way to wire it and was able to set it to 4cly. I dont think running it the way you do hurts the tune tho. Im just pickey lol

Thanx for that info guys! Was looking to get rid of my ported 1g manifold for a smim but its running pretty good with the hx40. Any of you guys 2.3?

Come on guys, Ive always been able to run 30+ psi with the hx40 even without meth on a evo 8 timing map, and thats on my 2.3!!!! You guys should be able to add even more timing on your 2.0s at 35psi and pump gas!

Glen, is it the e85 that makes you have to run such a small gap? On 93 pump ive always have gotten away with 30-35psi with a .026 gap on br7es plugs with stock coils, maybe its because I run such low timing. just courious

TURN DOWN THE BOOST!!! Start over, thats alot of knock. Get your fuel trims right, then get your a/f on point at wide open with about 12psi of boost. When you get all that right at 12psi add 3-5psi until you hit your target boost while keeping a/f in check. Then play with timing. for your base...

glad to hear all was resolved!

Did you put the timing plate on the crank on backwards? Seen that over 5 times and have done it once, But caught it because I spun the motor by HAND before starting it. That will bend the valves

Extreme psi, they are the only company I try to order from. They are one of the only companies the acually stock parts, they arent just middle man.

Thank you for the input

Gamble is correct you use DC. As far as the amps I had the machine set to 140 for L copper pipe and fittings. This was my first try, but im sure someone who has more time on the tig can make it look just like a steal bead.

I always thought it would be difficult but tried it today and found its much easier then aluminum. I just started laying some nice beads down with aluminum and started thinking about how Jesse James made a gas tank out of copper years ago. Being a plumber I have alot of copper laying around, and...

I blew my headlights out due to a bad regulator years ago, I rememeber ripping it at night and seeing my headlights get real bright then pop! Out went the lights, looked at my logger and voltage spiked to 17+ volts. It was a bad reg in the alternator.

Thanks for the tip, Ill get used to the machine with steel first.Same thing my father told me.

Its like brand new, all works great. Ill have to post a pic of the controls and ask you guys how to set it for aluminum lol