Sounds to me like a throttle position sensor needs adjustment. There are proper ways of doing this but having DSMlink makes it much easier. Have you ever tried raising or lowering the idle via BISS screw?

I seriously doubt it unless you just shoved RTV inside the drain tube and even then I would think it would just be pushed into your pan. Nothing wrong with a little bit of black RTV + a gasket. I do it all the time for good measure.If it really is that much oil going into everything, I would...

Just out curiosity but whyy would you floor it after going through a puddle? You do realize your intake is sucking in air, the higher the RPM, the more air sucking thus sucking in all the water. Either way, sounds like you're going to need a new shortblock, not sure how much you value the car...

I think DSMlink is your next investment to get your car on a reliable tune before investing anything else in parts. Your biggest restriction after that will be the side mount. VRSF makes a great kit that's easy to install however, you won't be able to keep the fog lights. Most people just leave...

Pull your lower timing covers and check the balance shaft belt. I'm willing to bet that is disintegrating. Could also have jumped timing. Doesn't really explain metal shavings though, could be just debris.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=25537&cat=0&page=2You would need that then you can pull all your EVAP junk and block off the 3 lines off the throttle body as well.

I'm pretty sure 136 & 141 are both for the rear o2 sensor which all it does is monitor catalytic converter efficiency. The other 2 are EVAP BS which you don't need. The car will run and function fine with these codes on however you should still check around the EVAP vacuum lines, make sure there...

So it's FWD and RWD, that is insane lol. I wonder how it handles a corner at WOT.

Great but how tf does the drivetrain work?

Wait what.. how.. why?!

I don't see anywhere you stated car is all stock except what you mentioned? As others have said, why are you trying to tune with SAFC on a black box? In fact, if your injectors are stock, FPR is stock, then you shouldn't really need a tune at all. The 255 will overrun the stock FPR to begin...

What injectors are you running? AFR at WOT? What does safc2 "adjustments up and down mean"? Do you know how to work with SAFC? Boost leak tested?

Not getting replies because there is a TON of information on this very subject. 17x9 +35 should fit at stock height. Once you lower, even an inch, you'll probably rub the outer fenders. It also depends on tire, if you go with a 255, you may need spacers so you don't rub on the upper control arms...

You're probably better off ordering a new one because even if you do find someone they probably won't know how to resurface to proper step height. Our flywheels need to be accurately measured.

Yep, difficult especially with no wideband. I would say you could maybe get away with it with a little bit of E85 mixed with 93 to lean out the stock tune but know that you are playing with fire. Otherwise you'll just run pig rich. Get some stock 450's.

Neat trick, never thought of doing that.

Disregard my comment if you did this already but checking your fuel pressure, it's supposed to be with the car running at idle and the vacuum line off the FPR, then read gauge.

Haha is that a serious question?

Idle may have nothing to do with your ECT. As far as the third wire, good question, I do kind of remember a 3rd wire tucked into the sleeve but I'm not sure what its for. Your fans are supposed to kick on at *210 F so your readings are off and it should reach that temp easily after 15-20min...

I'm confused, what's your question? It sounds like your soldering job isn't making a good connection. You need a new a connector with wires hanging out of it so you can connect it to the wires from the car harness.You could cut one from a junkyard or @Stangmurdera could probably help you out...

Straight 10 is pig rich man, by now you have probably fouled out your plugs and is most likely causing your problems. Another option is to have your ECU flashed depending what kind of ECU you have (EPROM or black box only). I'm not entirely sure if MY1GDSM is still in this business or not but he...

Try to get your hand on the back of the knock sensor itself. If it is sticky and gooey, it is bad/going bad. Could explain a loss of power. Otherwise maybe heat soaking going on with an off brand intercooler but if it's big enough, it shouldn't. Also, 50 trim turbo is barely spinning at 20 psi...

What are you tuned with? What is your AFR at 15psi vs 20psi?

So if anyone was wondering this is what I was talking about:I pulled my door panel off, speaker, speaker cover and put my hand inside the door. That "door check" was rubbing on the window frame rail. I believe what happened was my helper moved the door too much while it was off its hinges...

I'm also running -12 but 2 ports instead of 1 right off the VC like you have it going straight to a vented catch can but I can't tell did you drill out that hole bigger? If not, having such a large hose would be pretty useless.

I have removed all the bolts, lined up the door and brace and reinstalled and it started doing it. I then took off the brace and reinstalled the door to see if it still binds and it does but not as bad. I'm gonna tackle it again tomorrow hopefully I can do something if I mess with it more, I was...

No it does it with the fender removed. It's not binding up against the fender or side skirt. It sounds like it's binding on the little lever bolted inside the door and attached to the car frame. Can't for the life of me think of what it's called. It also did not do it before removing the bolts...

Hey guys I'm having an issue installing my fender brace. Drivers side went great no issues opening or closing the door worked great but now I'm having issues with passenger side. When I open the door now there is kind of a click kind of like it's getting held up while I'm trying to open or close...

Unfortunately if the previous owner cut those fenders then you're going to have to ride a wide wheel setup possibly with spacers. Take one of the wheels off and identify the width and offset. It looks like the rear is sticking out more than the front so it probably has a wider spacer on the...

Yup. You could always put a couple of washers on the bolts if you don't wanna wait for new ones. Just take your timing cover off make sure they aren't touching.

Kind of the wrong forum. Not sure how Hondas get tuned once turbocharged but posting a log would be a start. Boost leak test would also be a good start however if the turbo glowed red, it's probably toast.

Damn sorry to hear that blows. How did your hood fly up? CF hood or stock?You've probably fouled out your plugs by now since you're smelling gas. Maybe your timing jumped? Easy thing to check.

That ball joint is toast man, I'd be very cautious driving like that.

Did you drive the car around? Springs take driving time for them to settle.

Meh I have Megan Coilovers, the more expensive ones (I think $869 now) and I have zero complaints. I don't skip around turns like someone mentioned even on some pretty rough roads. I feel they handle very well for street use. Mind you I'm not slammed either and I have a pretty soft setting.

I would seriously consider finding a shop to do it if you have no experience. I've seen some botched rear fenders from people not knowing what they are doing. Once they lose their shape, good luck getting them back to normal. I found someone on my local forum to come out to my house and do them...

No reason not to go with a forged fork. The OEM ones are known to bend/warp overtime, especially with tougher pressure plates.

I've had some terrible luck with ACT. All of them seem to give out one way or another (broken springs, stripped splines, broken PP fingers). I now have a Competition Clutch stage 3 setup. Can't comment yet though as the car is still garaged.

Thanks Gofer for that explanation. I need to invest in dsmlink, I'm just so paranoid at the thought of trying to tune this car myself. For now, I may leave my flashed ECU the way it is, as I haven't heard of this E54 business happening in my state yet. I don't get any knock at WOT, and most of...

I didn't read the PDF thoroughly but would you have to change an E85 tune for E54?I live in TX, we have E85 pumps everywhere however, I've experienced variances in AFR ratios since moving here and trying out new stations. I've also had my knock gauge throw a fit sporadically last year just...

You could have contacted our vendors here and got yourself a good used carrier bearing or driveshaft pieces. (miller import parts)Off topic but is there really no aftermarket bearings for our driveshafts? What options aside from rebuilding do we have?

What?

Gasket maker for what? There is no gasket maker I know of that will hold manifold temps.

I run an in-cabin HKS EBC. It is ancient and still works great however I cannot do boost by gear. All I can really do is adjust it via knob in the car. I have a Hallman MBC on stand by if it ever fails. It's great you don't have to open the hood to adjust it.

Don't go throwing money at a fuel filter just yet. It's also a huge pain to do if you have never done it before and can potentially make things worse. Do a boost leak test like others have said and go from there. Plugs and wires is a good idea as well.

I'm so confused. So you have the MBC hooked up to your emissions? How would you expect that to work? Of course that could be your problem. You also don't necessarily need it off the compressor, you could have source off the J-pipe or lower intercooler pipe although may not work as efficient.

I think Pre 99's don't have the warning buzzer for the seatbelt or maybe it does. Idk, I haven't driven my car in a couple of months and can't remember haha.

Yep should be a solid beeeeeeeeep once you open the door. If your door sensors aren't working then the beep wont work either.

You would need this: http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-1g-2g-dsm-fmic-j-pipe-90-99-mitsbuishi-eclipse-eagle-talon-turbo.htmlIt's kind of a pain to install, may have to loosen the V-clam on the turbo but it works.

Idk that's kind of tall, they could rub on the upper arms and those will tuck hard in your fenders if you are lowered. 235's are a bit too wide for a 7" wheel, I think theoretically you can do it but you will be rolling the sidewalls cornering. 18x7 is just an odd size, I would look for 18x8 or...