Sequential is generally referred to as two turbos working together. Whereas compound is generally referred to as one turbo feeding another.Easier way to do what you want would be a twin charged. Supercharger feeding a big turbo. Absolutely no lag on low boost, then big turbo takes over once...

Palms are pretty old and very finicky. I've never used one, but from my understanding you have to "unlock" the unit before it will allow you to reinstall the software.I would highly suggest upgrading to link or aem. What are you currently using to tune with since palms are for logging only?

-71 is what the ecu defaults to if the IAT sensor is bad fyi. Check your sensors wires and replace.

Stick with factory plugs, fuel system is already electric and doesn't need to be upgraded unless you get something to tune with.Post a picture of your motor and we can tell you what it is. But most likely a 420a.

You ever get a ecu?

Different routes. Awd exhaust has to clear the rear diff. Fwd does not. You could make it work, but would be fabricating and adding pipe

What part that holds the strut? Top? Bottom?

If your interested in a 16g that will bolt on, pm me.

Head gaskets can blow without mixing fluids. I've gone through 2 on my 90 and never had fluids mix. Both times, it allowed exhaust into the cooling system, pressurizing the system and boiling over. So, don't think JUST because fluids are not mixing, it can't be the gasket.

I meant...the new plugs. Not the old plugs. Anytime a misfire is read, it's basic insurance to pull a plug just to see how the car is running.The connection to the side of the block or the connection to the coil? Have you checked both?As far as the idle, have you checked TB for leaks? IAC...

Pull plugs, post pictures. Pull ecu, post pictures. Make sure the coil plug to the driver side of block is actually plugged in and secure.

I understand you fixed your problem OP, but due to the misinformation in the thread. I want to clear one thing up.It is a well known MISTAKE to T into the BOV line for your wastegate. Do not do this. Use the stock vac lines for the solenoid, or run from the throttle body port to the mbc, then...

Wait, you bought a car without driving/reving it beforehand? Never a smart move unless your already planning a full rebuild and just wanted the shell.If it's just the bearing, buy new ones and install. If it fudged up the cap, will have to be line bored to remove the imperfections and new...

Next time, try using the brake booster line instead of the bov line. Also, your suppose to change your spark plugs as well.As for the iac, remove and check for any signs of why it would not be working properly.

You can remove everything pertaining to the AC. You will need to keep the blower motor(inside the black box behind your dash) and the heater core, as well as the 2 coolant lines running into the firewall that go to your heater core.

FYI, for whoever said the 560s are too small. I ran 550s at 25 psi on a 14b at 75% idc. 560s should be plenty on 15 psi. Even more so if he's running a factory t-25 on the 2gTo the OP, you have nothing to tune with? I know the general information is "2g maf with 550/560 injectors works"...

Honestly, it looks like crap. But like they said, if that's a genuine hks bov. It's worth the price just for it.

Updated list of parts.

Is it still agaisnt the rules to post a link to a different forum if it's an entirely different platforms forum? If not, I'll post a link to the 86s forum that has plenty of logs showing anywhere from 13-18 afrs on supercharged fa20s. From what logs I have gone through, most up between 16-18 are...

He just gave you an example...5 years on a boosted Honda at stoich....on a side note, my other car(2013 scion frs) has plenty of people running aftermarket turbos and superchargers tuned between 13 and 14 AFR. So far the longest I know of has been 30k miles and still going strong. (Keep in mind...

Not necessarily true. Depending on timing and compression. It's very possible to run safely at a specific AFR as long as it's tuned around it. Gotta remember, we as dsms purposefully tune rich for safety reasons. At stoich(14.7 in gases case) would by theory be the perfect setup. Would create...

Check the wires for the sensor first. They are known to become brittle and break. My 90 still has the OEM sensor, had to rewire it twice since I've owned it.A new laptop for the logger is your best option right now, without it you are truly just guessing what's going on inside the motor ad...

A bad cts defaults the ecu to thinking the car is frozen. Therefore dumping raw gas, causing a massive flood symptom. Aka, your "pig rich" status.I'm not personally educated on a maf-t setup, but it seems like trying to tune injectors based solely off a wideband, would be near impossible...

Very bad head gasket. All 3 times I have blown mine never mixed fluids. But allowed exhaust into cooling system.

your pretty much gonna have to pull the head so you can get a good angle on it to ez out or use a bolt extractor. you MAY be able to get away with just pulling the intake manifold and fuel rail and do it with the head still in the car

Quick google search indeed says they are rc 550s based on the part number.

Having your bumper cover on/off shouldn't matter. I would burp the system again. And check if your head gasket is allowing exhaust into the coolant.

I actually didn't even think about that...most widebands don't read that low to begin with.

or a true mhi unit...used 16gs are pretty cheap. and more than enough for most "casual street drivers"

as stated, they are hit and miss. me and a friend both bought one on the same order. mine lasted 30k miles. his lasted 1 mile...

you need to REMOVE fuel. the lower the number, the richer you are, which means your injecting waaaay too much fuel. as stated, you want idle close to 14.7. WOT pulls should be around 10. cruising/off throttle up around 15-17

is the Q recirc'd? would explain why your trying to stall coming to a stop. 2g maf + vented bov = stall

Just the valve cover gasket. It's the only gasket you get to without taking extra stuff off.

Autozone...if you have to tighten them THAT much, there's a problem. Either your hose is too big, or the clamp you have is too big. Where are you using these clamps at? Cooling system?

Technically they are. Just like on a 7 bolt and most motors. OEM studs are known to stretch. The proper way is to measure before reusing.

Really? By launch control what do you mean? This is with link right? Maybe I'm out of date lol

He has to be using anti-lag, says it builds boost. You are enriching the fuel mixture by engaging the 2-step. It's going to run rich unless you USE that extra fuel...

doing a quick google search, seems the only thing they care about. are the emissions stand point. aka, ALL factory emissions items must be from the swapped motor and comply to CA smog laws. in other words, to do this swap, you would need every single piece including any sensors and valves that...

I coulda swore my stock started leaking at 18ish.So, couldn't this simply be his problem? Stock unmodified bov running 20+ psi.

I'm assuming you removed the two coolant lines that went to the passenger side firewall? Those go to the HEATER core(small radiator looking piece inside the "black box" under the dash). If you did, your not hearing anything to make a heater warmer than ambientTo the op, yes you can crack...

Your wideband is keeping you in open loop. You removed your factory o2 sensor, and have no way to tell the ecu that the wideband needs to simulate narrowband. They send out two different signals.

Am I wrong in saying I thought a stock 1g bov needed to be crushed to hold 20+ psi correctly?

Security system wouldn't make the blower motor stop or the windows to stop working. You have a main fuse busted, or as I said, a wire rubbed insulation off and shorted. Most likely around the firewall due to the interior fuse box getting no power

I'll agree with should. Not would. And narrowband sim does not HAVE to be checked unless he removed the stock o2 sensor. Quite possibly did like me, drilled and welded a bung to keep both o2 sensors. Whether it's logged or not, he sees it. As he mentioned in his post that the gauge reads the...

You noticed all that, yelled at him for not having a wideband. But in his first post he says "I have a aem uego wired into link".Op, I'll look at the log when I get home. Currently on my phone so I can't view it.

If you want MHI reliability, a 20g will be more on par with your desired power level. Still a MHI turbo, still a bolt on turbo, but no where near as restricted as a 16g

Search would have brought up many threads on this.Most common place to tap for the boost gauge is the FPR line. You would need a t-fitting.

Makes me think you have a shorted wire running into the cabin. Which in turn melted the insulation on other wires, causing your multiple symptoms.

I'm on my phone and can't view the log. But after you used the mafcomp feature, did you go back and manually see if the points are smooth? The feature usually doesn't make a "smooth" table. Quite possibly saw you build boost at that 20-30% throttle on the pull, and adjusted for the boost...

Dremel or sizz-wheel with grinding attachments. I prefer the Dremel since ours is battery operated therefore easier to handle