Warped rotors

I love the Innovate LC-1.

sounds like a exhaust leak.

I upgraded to the 3g revised and no more tick.

Yeah the Hx35 is a great turbo and has quick spool.

i agree with the maft.

definitely needs to be tuned.

It's almost always a fuse.

Do a boost leak test.

Double check a connections and hoses.

I'd consider the front main seal or the oil pump assembly.

Sounds like timing belt. I hope not. Good luck

Try a good pair of vise grips.

It could be a brake caliper hanging up.

I would have the TCU tested.

I like the black wheels, I'm thinking of the same for my car.

Did the spark plugs or coils help at all. If the timing is correct there should not be a problem with starting it.

I recommend the modded 1g BOV. I run 28 psi no problem.DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST

Royal purple is good stuff. I know a lot of people that use it.

Upgrading IC would help.

Check timing marks alignment, if good try adjusting the biss.

My guess is a Evo III.

1986 ford f150 regular cab with a mustang 5.0 fuel injected engine.

Check spark plugs. I've seen a head installed with spark plugs still in the head and the gap get crushed.

^I agree 100%.

OEM 2gb

It will most likely cause a problem. I've seen it done in the past.

Try adjusting the biss if the idle seems low.

Make sure you plugged everything in.

Check timing belt and then check timing while running with a light.

Not all fit but most do.

Check timing at idle with light. Check for boost leak at the level you are running if you haven't already. post results.

I second this. ^ Do a boost leak test.

Check throttle body shaft seals and mounting gaskets. Also i have 272 cams and my vacuum is between -13 and -15.

I know someone who is using them in a 350 awhp car and no problems after a year of driving.

Adjust the biss screw out when it is warmed up to increase rpm.

Sounds like a wastegate issue. I've seen a similar problem working on a vr4 galant. It wouldn't boost above 22 psi, we changed the wastegate and now it's hitting 30psi.

Check your ignition components. It could be misfiring if it shakes while not driving the car.

I second this ^

Do a compression test and post the results.

If the engine is assembled right and regularly maintained it should last longer than factory.

On awd cars i always recommend changing all four.

I paid $4,600 two years ago for my 1995 Talon tsi awd with 110,000 miles. All the mods except ecmlink and 3" gm maf came on the car. It also had a fresh paint job. The only thing i had to replace since i bought it was a wheel bearing... knock on wood.