thanks for the advice guys. I am going to try to hardwire the dvd player to the car (it's an in-dash currently wired to a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter). May be this way the ground would be better. I'll just stick it into the glove box. One of my power wires is hooked up...

i tried a noise filter (ground loop). did not help. swithced to better rca's and separated the grounds. Still nothing. I am officially out of ideas..

thanks DSM. I'll separate the ground and see if that helps. Does the quality of RCA wires matter at all when it comes to interference?

Got a situation here I cant figure out. I bought a dvd player and 2 headrest monitors for my car. I didnt want to hardwire the dvd player to the car so I wired it to a power adapter (well, 2 of them to make the cord longer) and plugged it into a power outlet. The dvd player is connected to one...

yeah, i'm pretty sure the fluid came out of the steering rack. I've done some reading and the rack looks ridiculoulsy expensive/difficult to replace. I think I'm just going to take off the pump/belt and call it a day. Shouldnt be too bad driving it that way, my commute is only about 3 miles.

alright, I got a chance to look at the car tonite and found roughly where the fluid came out from. It's not the pump or the reservoir, it all gushed out from somewhere around the bottom of the firewall, right above the crossmember I believe. Is that the rack? what does repairing this entail? I...

If it is in fact the pump gone bad, what would the symptoms be? The fact that the steering got heavier and heavier to impossible to move within about 5 minutes, can it still be the belt? I'm thinking that it has to be a really bad leak, something that would cause me to loose most of the fluid...

Hey guys,Need some help with the car. This morning I pulled out of the driveway and while attempting to make a u-turn, I heard a very annoying whining/grinding noise coming from the front of the car. The Steering gradually became heavier and heavier and by the time I completed the u-turn, I...

you shoud also disconnect the fuel filter harness. It's located on the back of the fuel tank, then start the car and let it run until it dies. this way there is no fuel pressure in the lines and it won't shoot out once you take the eye bolt off.

thanks a lot, this is exactly what I needed. These lights are going on one way or another. I'll crazyglue them on if I have to. :)

thanks for the reply. do you know what size screws are needed? thanks

does anyone have any pictures of how stock fog lights are supposed to attach to the car? I think I have the correct brackets, just not sure where exactly to hook them up to and with what hardware. Can the brackets be hooked up to the car with the lights still attached to them?also, whats the...

tons of stuff on ebay.

will definitely check that. thanks.

This is probably a stupid question, but I'm just brainstorming over here.I replaced my front rotors/pads a couple of weeks ago after months of severe shaking/vibration in the front end while braking at highway speeds (coupled with occasional, very high-pitched squeal coming form the front...

just a thought. If the rear rotors are warped, would I feel it the same way? I havent changed the rears in a long time. I'll check the torque on the wheels but I think it's correct.

Got a little problem I need advice on. The brake pedal was pulsating in my car so I swapped in new front rotors and pads. The vibration is still there, especially felt when braking at higher speeds. There is no way I could have possibly warped these rotors as well, i dont think. I didnt change...

your end clutches are shot. I believe there is a Vfaq on how to get them replaced. in any case, if you search you will find a ton of info on this, i think everyone's end clutches have had to be replaced at one time or another.

what exactly do you mean by "my tranny died"? if this is an electrical problem, how would it destroy the transmission??(mine is in "limp mode" as well)

hey to everyone. well, i got my eclipse running again after a year of sitting in the garage. the car runs sweet, the only problem is there is something wrong with the brakes. besides the usual rust that accumulated on the rotors making the car sound horrible and stop poorly, there is something...

i was told that u have to leave ur OD off around the city.. this way there is less wear on it and we all know how often the dam thing gets messed up!

i think you mean the TPS, throttle position sensor, its on the throttle body and turning it counterclockwise is sposed to lean out the mixture. good luck

u guys were right, easy enough.. even though getting the lock and guide pins to move was a b*tch!!! :-)

thanx for the advice guys.. no ones has mentioned anything about the dam metal piece on the back of the pads.. what the hell is that?

got the same #### and got no clue what it is.. anyone?????

where did u get the breather filter at? and what exactly does it do?

THE Pads came in yesterday and im a lil confused. 2 of the 4 have some sort of a metal bracket attached to the back of the pad. what the hell is that for? i mean where does it go when puttin in the pads?? won't it interfere with the caliper?? thanx

for my car they are at .044 right out of the box while the largest they should be is .043.. go figure... im going to regap them for sure...

wow, thanx guys, this doesnt seem as hard as i had pictured it to be.. ill give it a try.. lets just hope i wont have to tow the car to the shop wheN im dont with it... :) by the way, the bracket that holds the pads, how do you remove it? thanx

picked up some new c/drilled rotors and was thinking of trying to put them on myself. now i've never done anything with the brakes, but figured might as well learn. ill put new pads on too.. so if anyone has any tips on how this has to be done, ill greatly appreciate it.. chilton's is kinda...

it's the motor mount

thanx for the reply.. my MPG should be bad if im running rich right??? ill try to play with the TPS anyway.. plugs are new.. wires about 1 yr old.. Crane Cams.. im lost...

what would make a car try to stall when you press the gas down and pick the idle back up as soon as you let it out???? It boggs down and struggles to stay on as soon as i press the gas (occasionally) and there is absolutely no response to the accelerator unless i floor it, but all i have to do...

DUDE, tell ur dad to pick one up here, and not from the dealer. there is a number of stores that can sell you whichever belt you need for a ton less than the dealer.. good luck

AGREE

the engine is the 1.8liter one.. And the tach jumps around with the engine. When the car starts choking it goes down to 300-400rpms, sometimes even lower to the point of all the dash lights coming on. Ironically at times it gets to this point but then recovers and shoots the rpms up to...

thanx for the reply... the filter is new so i doubt its that... how can u check the injectors??? are they hard to replace?? imean i'd rather replace the, if its not too hard to do on my own

ok, i got a strange thing happening.. sometimes when i slow down or stop, the car starts to kind of choke and tries to die. it occasionally corrects itself by shooting the rpm's high, my most of the time it just dies. well, lately it added a new twist to the probem. now, whem im cruising at low...

ill definitely do that too if i stay with the old metal posts and connectors... just to be on the safe side. paul

i think u r absolutely right.. thats y im getting a new battery on saturday and ill clean everything around it... thanx for the help

in my brother's t_bird it was a dirty Mass air flow sensor.. when i cleaned it the problem was gone... just a thought...

thanx for the response... so i guess im off to get a new battery if no one else has any suggestions...

need your help guys… had a very strange thing happen to my baby yesterday.. I went out to start the car, turned the key and out came nothing. The alarm started whining (exactly the sound, not the way it should be, just sort of a whimper). So I came out, popped the hood, started touching all the...

first off, if you search, you'll find tons of material here on lifter tick. many people feel that adding ATF into ur oil is harmful for it. the gereral idea is that the best cure for the tick is to get new, better and bigger lifters. if you dont want to go that far and want to save some money...

second the sticky calipers idea.. happened to me once, got it replaced. this is one part in the car you dont want to take chances with... good luck

only one fan is supposed to run. the other one is for the A/C.

had the same problem. there was a liltle crack in the intake pipe. after i sealed it up, no more sputter.... good luck

go for ngk's, they are cheap and work great...

sounds like a sticky caliper. i had mine replaced when this hapened, lost brakes completely, so i wasent taking my chances...

why stay away from Fram? been using is for the past 4,000 miles. seemed to be working better than the cheap #@%#@%#@%#@% they put on during an oil change at any of those shops...