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1999 GSX Barcelona Red 107k miles, clean titleComplete roller All that’s needed is an engine and accessories, transmission, and transfer case.Currently has: DSM link V3 with data cable AEM UEGO Wideband Autometer boost gauge ETS 4” intercooler with all hard piping 5zigen FN01R-C 17x8...

Selling a brand new, never used or installed Eaton MotorWorks clutch and brake fluid reservoir.Comes in a polished finish All mounting hardware included. Comes with all connecting lines and fittings to adapt to you brake and clutch masters.Never filled with brake/clutch fluid.Brand new...

Updated and added pictures

Need all these parts gone. Moving on from the DSM scene and they are just taking up room in my garage. Most parts are OBO so message me with any reasonable offer.Shipping is not included on the prices.Please bare with me on shipping items, I work shift work so it may take me a day or two to...

Count me in for a manual rack! I was planning on sending my rack to Eaton anyway so this is just an added bonus :thumb:

Paul, I take it from your previous post you are planning on doing another group buy? I’m bummed I missed the last one, would definitely like a set of these!

I've been searching the forums for a while now trying to get a good answer for this.I recently picked up an Evo 8 steering wheel and have followed the DIY. Welding it to a 1g hub so it will bolt right up to my 2g column.I also was able to get the air bag connector from the car side of the...

My best bet is those lines are shot. Replace them

Ok so while the head is off I'm going to go with an o-ring set up. From the research I've gathered I can ring just the head with copper o-rings and use a MLS gasket. Is that an accurate conclusion?Will be going with the Cometic MLS again. Which I believe does not have a built in o-ring like...

Replace the seal that seals the hanger with the tank. I recently installed a full blown hanger also and "thought" my gasket was good. Turned out it wasn't. And when the car wasn't up and running did it sit outside? Even good Russell lines will dry rot when sitting to long, allowing fumes to...

While tuning we logged knock a few times. With 5 degrees being the highest we got. I have them torqued to 95 ft/lbs using a new snap-on wrench and arp lube. I checked them after a few heat cycles and they were still right on. I'd have to go back into the logs and check what the timing numbers...

It was my block that I sent to them. They built it up with all new internals. They also had my head which they milled, and ported. I did not measure the stretch in the ARP's as I've always been under the impression that the L19 are almost stretch resistant. I did not use copper spray, I've...

So with the back story, I've been building this car up over the last couple years. Originally finished in may. Ran great except for the fact that I kept pushing coolant out of the rad cap. Ended up finding out that having the heater core blocked was causing too much pressure. Fixed that...

I'm just looking for a quick answer to what the bore size on 2.4 G4CS block bored 40 over would be?I've believe it is 87.5mm. I just wanted to get a second thought. And if this is the case I am not able to run a 87mm Fel-Pro gasket correct? As that is the biggest bore HG they offer.

I haven't measured the movement. But it is a good distance. 1/2 inch or so

I've looked into getting an extended rod. But that's just a bandaid fix. And the standard rod was enough before I put the new SS line, competition fork and ball in.

I put in the new slave cylinder and it is still the same. A new master is going in tomorrow. Aside from that I suppose the trans is going to be coming out again.I've done a new slave and a new master cylinder but there is still no change. I'm out of options now

I compared the two. They were the same. The trans does go into gear pretty easily with the car turned off. Just not once it's running. The new slave cylinder will be going on in the next hour. See if it changes anything for me.

101k. Shifter cables seem good to me. No excess play. And the pedal is good. No play in that either.

The fork is centered in the hole. I went and did the adjustment right now. It's set just before the point where you can not push the slave rod in anymore. I'm going to try replacing the slave and see if it helpsThe fork is centered in the hole. I went and did the adjustment right now...

As the title says, it just won't go into gear with it running. I've bled and bled and bled the clutch. Doesn't seem to help. It's a ACT 2900 with sprung 6 disc and act flywheel. Just installed a competition forged clutch fork/ pivot ball and Oem TOB along with a SS line from master to slave...

Don't mean to revive an old thread but I figured it best to ask my question here. I have an fp mani that is already ceramic coated. Would there be any harm in putting this blanket on the coated manifold? Or would it just help with even lower temps?

Finishing up my latest rebuild and have never came across this before: It a G4CS motor, motor has been apart for a year My brand new crank timing gear will not fit over my crankshaft. Neither will the balance shaft spacer. They seem as if they need pressed on. I've tried the old gear I...

My question is exactly as the title says. I've been spending days tracing over all the oil pump threads on here and just cant come to a clear solution to which is best I have both combinations in my possession. All brand new. The AMS race balance shaft and the OEM stubby shaft. With a set...

Oh I know Tony wouldn't send me anything less then great. He did awesome work and I've been in contact with him about it the whole way. I was just unsure after hearing some failed stories with Cometic that maybe I could go with Fel-Pro. I'm seeing more and more I should just go with my...

Head and block were both prepped and built by JAM. Mirror finish on both

After a year of wait I'm finally ready to put the head on my block. Engine was built by Jackson Auto Machine. They did an awesome set up with it My question is: I was supplied with a Cometic MLS gasket from JAM. I have heard some not so good things with this HG compared to a Fel-Pro...

I'm sure someone will be able to give some insight on this.In the process of removing my entire rear suspension to install the prothane kit and clean up the rear wheel wells, I snapped a bolt due to the rust from the good ol' PA winters.I'm looking for the bolt that goes through the...

Run it through the steering column boot. No need to drill any holes :thumb:

Definitely not boost spike. A boost spike is a lb. or two not 15psi more then what you should be at. First off make sure your wastegate is actually functioning properly and opening. Then install yourself a MBC. Don't keep running the car the way it is, unless you want to rebuild more then...

Looking for the harness side Knock sensor pigtail. When replacing the knock sensor the wire broke on the harness side. It's way too short to splice back together or solder. Just looking for a new one. Does anyone sell one or know where I could locate one? Other than a junkyard, been there...

Since you have Link I would get as big of injectors that you can get your hands on. So no need to go bigger in the future WHEN your hp goals go up.

X2 on fixing the rpm issue. Fix the issue, remove the afc and sell it. Make some money :thumb:

The word you are looking for is impedence. Low impedence injectors require the injector resistor pack. Whereas high impedence do not require one. FIC sells a resistor delete plug for high impedence set up Resistor Pack Delete Plug DSM and EVO 8/9But if it were me I would just find a set...

I'd definitely recommend getting a wideband before you go doing anything with the boost. Better safe than sorry.

Definitely do a boost leak test. Whenever you are messing with or replacing any part of the intercooler piping always do a boost leak test. Heck I do one every week, just by driving your car up the road it is vibrating all your clamps and pipes. Eventually leaks come about. just my .02...

Don't mean to revive an old thread. I'm just curious as to if this problem was resolved. And if so what was the culprit?

G4CS Block The exact block that is at your shop now :thumb:

Don't mean to contradict anyone here. But I have always been under the impression and have been told to apply the moly lube to both ends of the bolt. Also on the washer and nut face themselves. If anyone has anymore insight please chime in

There are so many mixed answers on this topic. So I was just looking to see if we could get some definite set in stone answers.I am in the process of buying the parts to time my G4CS block with 4G63 head. I do have the 4G64 intake and exhaust cam gearsIs a 4g64 belt a must? Or can I...

G4CS motor is awesome. I've been running one for a few years. They are the route to go for torque and quick spool. To run one you need the g4cs block and crank. You can use 6 bolt rods, pistons, head, oil pan, etc The timing is a bit different though. You can actually buy a 2.4 intake gear...

Anyone out there?! Someone has to have some sort of opinion...

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my 2.4 G4CS motor and am hung up on a piston choice. My goal is 700+awhp, Street weekend car. Won't see but 1 track day a year. I am going with a Manley Turbo Tuff rod on an OEM crank. I've been reading a lot of good stuff on Venolia pistons. In all...

Did you do the TPS calibration in Link?

You can "T" into the MAP or FPR line Do not "T" into the BOV or Catch can

Could be a boost leak. Check your Power Transistor, when those start to go bad it will run on 2 cylinders. Make sure your spark plug wires are in the right order on the coil pack. Just go back over and recheck everything you did. Make sure you didn't leave a vacuum line unhooked or anything...

I don't know the exact name of it. But I do no it is not needed, when upgrading to an SS clutch line you compltely bypass that valveEdit: It's an FCU http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/314295-how-install-ss-braided-clutch-line.html

Definitely look into the HX35 and HX40 turbos. Both can carry you way over 400hp. They spool very quickly for their size and relatively cheap to buy. Or go full ball bearing and look into FP's HTA turbos or the 3065

Welcome! As for the boost leak test, Everyone seems to build there own from parts from Home Depot I would definitely get an aftermarket boost gauge, Stock one is not accurate for anything. Like stated before, do all maintenance, before mods.Welcome and have fun with it. Soon your gonna...