Battery tested good and I took the alt in and it's good. The previous owner was a good friend and he had just replaced the fuel filter in hopes it would fix the problem. The car will run fine off starting fluid so it's a fuel problem somewhere. I'm thinking its the regulator but I don't want to...
I just bought a 93 plymouth laser 1.8. When I get the car to start, it dies immediately after. It won't idle on its own unless I pump the gas a little it will idle up, but if I give it too much it'll died.My generator light, battery light and brake light are on all the time. Would this have...
chances are since this being your first time getting in BIG trouble, most charges will be dropped to a waaaaaaay lesser charge (if you get a lawyer). the felony charge will get dropped man. theres worse things people have done who supposably get felony charges and they always get dropped for a...
bro sorry to hear about the engine. ive had it happen to me after a couple hundred miles , but mine was due to a faulty clutch, it detonated and spun mains instead of rods. from what ive read, no matter if they are oem new rod bolts or arps, u still have to get rods honed cause they are not...
does anyone know how to get ahold of anyone from thedsmgraveyard.com. ive called the number on there site many times and it tells me to put my phone number in and a pass code. its making me think somethings wrong with the number on the site. any help would be great
bro from the video it sounds like u have a compression problem. the rings are shot or you bent your valves. it sounded like your motor was turning over waaaaaaay to easy. do a compression check
ahh ive built a few, not 4g63s but i built a srt4 motor for my 96 neon and i built a single sohc all motor for my other neon a couple years back. its nothing to far out of my league lol
I know for sure timing is in, I think its the rings though. I'm getting ready to check now, I'll keep everyone who helped updatedStarting from cylinder #1
120, 150, 135, 140 :cry:.Now I'm in a bad mood. Thanks to all who helped
well i found out why my wideband has been reading so far off (needed recalibrated). with that fixed i was going to set my base timing. when i ground the timing plug the car will not run what so ever, it will start but die immediately after. can someone tell me what going on and why its doing...
ok i redid my cylinder head a couple months ago and still havent got it running right. i burnt my tuned chip up a while back so now im trying to get it to run with the maft. if i leave everything zeroed it runs extremely rich, but if i set my base and aux to my injector size it runs extemely...
i seriously cant even drive it to get a log (hardly wants to move) and if i could drive, i cant load it to my computer to show u whats its doing. i dont think it PK at all. my WB jumps all over the place at idle as well. its weird, it was fine before. i just dont understand
when i first start my car it runs rich as it should, but even after its been running for 15 min its still really rich. now the messed up thing is that when i try to drive it i get really high knock counts in and out of boost (2k rpm). ive did a blt to 15 lbs and it takes about 1min to bleed most...
its definately the lifters. i just rebuilt my head and put 3gs in it and it did that for about 20 min or so. just let it idle and after a while u will hear em shut up 1 by one
i dont know if it matters, but i think awd and fwd starters a different (make sure it isnt a FWD starter). there are alot of idiots at autozone and theyve been know to screw up alot and give people wrong stuff.
also if you spun some type of bearing there will be metal shavings in your oil pan. drain your oil, but take a red shop towel and filter the oil. when its all drained look at the towel and see if you see any type of glittery metal shaving. if there is, then pull the pan and change rod bearings...
well the stock o2 sensor was bad. i just replaced it and everything ocsolates now. now when i rev it or try to should i say, it revs to like 2500 and back down and keeps doing this not matter how much gas i give it
its a innovative lc-1 wideband with a moates led display, so its not a cheap one lol. im thinking its a bad 02 cause with the exhaust unhooked (meaning no exhaust flow through the sensor, it is giving the same readings). any other suggestion are welcome and thanks to all who are helping.
fellas, i know that. ive let it run for like 20-30 min and its been like 106 degrees outside so i shouldnt even take that long to warm up. it never did this before i installed the cams. what are the symtoms of a bad 02 sensor.
i installed BC 272 cams along with springs and retainers. i also added adj. cam gears, thats it. when i start my car my A/F reads 12.3 and doesnt move at all. can anyone tell me why my cars ,or should i say why my wideband is doing this. i have an eprom ecu and i had the chip tuned before i did...
im getting a really high count knock on my knock sum gauge. it was fine before i added BC 272s. is there anything i should look at as to why im getting knock so high. when i say high, i mean maxed
he being in Miami, FL wouldnt have that prob near as bad as say you and i (indiana). it can get pretty cold around here and that would effect us bad. after a few tries his car would or should finally fire up. it would run like crap until it was warmed up but would still start. i agree with above...
i had the same exact problem, but i have a MAFt and if i would unplug it it would idle. i found out my IAT was set too high so it was lean and just dieing. i dont know about the safc and if it has the function to change the IAT but check that out. hope that help a little.jesse