Very impressive :thumb:

What happened in the second time slip? Your mph in the 1/8th was 2mph over than the other slip but your quarter was 7mph lower? :confused:

Autozone is the last place I'd take my car. Too many bad experiences with them. :notgood:

Talk about a horsecock shifter. ROFL

Try going out and pressing the clutch in, then popping it in neutral. If the rpm's drop then, I'd bet that the clutch is going and isn't fully engaging.

I actually went from a cut stock shifter to a B&M short shifter (at 50% reduction) and I saw a HUGE difference. My 5th gear shift went to where my 3rd gear used to be.

To answer the question, you can cut about 2" out of the stock shifter. You can lose about an inch in the middle part of it, and then another inch right above the pivot point. When I did mine I put a small metal dowel rod in the middle (since it's hollow) then re-welded it to ensure strength. I...

You're not letting more air in if the engine can't suck more air in. Without some head work, a 60mm throttle body isn't really needed.

Mine did the same, but I had nearly perfect compression on all four cylinders.

Wrong. A full coilover setup will ride a lot stiffer than a spring/shock setup.

Yes a lightweight flywheel will help with faster revs and such, but it hurts daily driving esp if you have a very stiff clutch.

The throwout bearing that comes with the SACHS kit is plastic and will make noises while the clutch isn't pressed. I recommend chipping out the extra $30 and getting an OEM one.

Looks press bent :coy:

I had the SACHS clutch in my old n/t and it was better than my stock one. The modular means that everything is already assembled (flywheel, pressure plate, clutch) and you just have to bolt it up. I do suggest going to a dealership and getting an OEM throwout bearing though.

I'd just keep the stock one and do the DIY mod to it. That way you can keep throttle response.

I've seen plenty of n/t-> t running more than 9psi. Plus there have been many people running insane amounts of nitrous on them with only fuel upgrades. I said there are more products for them, I didn't say that it was only n/t parts. Its a shitload cheaper to turbo a 4g63 than a 420a. The 2gnt...

Unless you're going to be driving through a river or huge puddles, you dont have to worry about sucking up water.

What if he can't find a place to fish anymore because he's caught all the rest of the fish?

I bought my SSR RS8's off ebay. Not a single problem.

4g63n/t still has the same rods as the turbo version, just a little higher compression so the internals are nearly as strong. It's also easier to upgrade the 4g63n/t since there are more parts out for it.

The engine design is good, and you can make a lot of power out of it, it just takes money. The head gaskets are common to go out because they decided to stick a paper head gasket between an aluminum head and a cast iron block.

Glasspack and resonator have some differences. The inside of a resonator looks like a straight through muffler on the inside so it wont hurt performance as long as you stay with the same size piping.

No manual transmission matches the V6 though.

One of the best mods for an automatic is the final drive modification.

There are only 6 screws that hold the console on, and one pivot nut on the shifter plus a cotter pin. It doesnt take a genius to install it.

What kind of car do you have? FF, FR, MR, AWD?

The tranny is fairly strong but the differential can back out way before 450hp.

2gnt has an 8-bolt flex plate.

Then why did you bump it you ####tard.

It's all about opinion. I think 1gs are hideous and 2g's look like boats (with the weight to back them up).

GSX has the shorter gear ratios than a non-turbo.

Any sanctioned NHRA drag strip requires a chute at more than 150mph trap speed.

Recirculate you ricer. :dsm:

Cold-air intake is an extended pipe and places the filter behind the front bumper. Dont even bother with a short ram intake as the stock intake flows just as good.

If he sold his car and bought a turbo, then he wouldn't have a car and would just have a turbo lying around. What would be the point of doing that?

Nitrous.

Much easier, but not nearly as cost effective.

The only hard motor mount to replace is the rear. The other 3 are easy to get to.

It's not illegal in NC either as long as the bottle isn't open.

Seems like you contradicted yourself in this message.

What?

Best I could run when I went to the track was a 16.3 with open intake, lowered tire pressure up front, and a new stock replacement clutch.

Wow, I'm glad I didn't waste my time on reading all of that.

Thats not going to add enough flow to need a afc. Just reset the fuel maps and you should be good.

7.3 1/4th doesnt equate to a 14 second 1/2 mile.

Judging by your time, I wouldn't listen to this guy.I'd say some of the cheap things to do would be pull out your air filter, and lower the front tire pressure.

Save the money from the p/p job and actually start ordering stuff. Our heads flow good as is.

If he's turbo why would he just want to upgrade the muffler? I'd suggest the Greddy Evo, Greddy SP, or if you can wait an RS*R.

Crower also has a couple of sets of cams for our cars.

My head gasket went out at 80k, so if it hasn't been replaced I'd watch out for that.