I still have these if anyone is interested!

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Price drop! 150$ + shipping!

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I have for sale a set of (4) 2gb talon wheels. They could definitely use some love and one has a bent lip but still held air. I haven't owned a DSM in years but found these in storage. I can ship but at buyers expense. I want 175$ for them. With some work and paint, they could be perfect. Please...

Is your plan for it to be a track car? If so, replace all the glass with lexan. There's a significant loss there. Remove sound deadening on interior floor and is the crash beam still behind the front bumper cover?

Wheel bearings or carrier bearings would be my guess.

I would also make sure your oil pump is good. Is your oil pressure normal?

I agree, with all 4 being nearly the same and all that low, it doesn't seem like typical head gasket symptoms.

There may be a hairline crack somewhere in the system which isn't allowing it to build pressure. If you pressurize the system, the fluid can go past its normal boiling point without boiling which leads me to believe your system cannot hold pressure.

Well, if you already have the driver lower control arm off, replace it with an oem unit. They are cheap and that will confirm if it is or isn't coming from there. I would inspect the shocks and springs, your upper mount may be toast or bump stops.

Yes, even it out on the other side and then assess any damage. You might be fine right now.

Conservatively, at WOT high 10's is good. For idle, 14.7 is great. You'll be able to get more power by leaning it out but anything higher than 12.0 is something I'd take caution with.

If you do replace it, might as well replace the half moon gasket with an evo metal one. I had much more success with them staying dry.

If the stopper thats built in to the inject is contacting and fuel rail and is sturdy then you shouldn't need a spacer. If there is any gap and the injector can wobble, I would say something needs to be placed in there.

Maintenance before anything! Make sure the car is healthy before you start trying to increase the performance any more.

They are the valves that release built up pressure produce from your turbo. Our cars come stock with internal wastegates mounted to the turbo. They have springs which keep their valves closed but once a boost limit is reached, they open and stop the turbo from building more boost.And yes...

Depending on how stuck it is you may also be able to tack weld a nut and use a socket to remove it.

We need more details on the car to accurately help you. Mod list?

Well that's going to be a hard place to get tools in to. I would try the dremel and screw driver approach.

A few times won't hurt but I would make sure to not keep doing it.

Have you tried a bent box wrench? I never had an issue, but I also had my motor removal bracket that is bolted right there removed.

If it's accessible, get it out of there. If not just for the piece of mind..

Evo metal half moon gasket FTW. My rubber one always used to slightly leak. Never had an issue after I switched.

There have been some threads that I recall reading through about this and I don't remember any having good results. If you can't afford new quality brand parts, try and find some used quality parts.

I believe the service manual calls for no more than 15psi between cylinders. That would be a red flag to me.

I wouldn't bother trying to make the N/A engine more powerful, but I would try and make it healthier. Maintenance first.

It depends what your goals are. If you are using a smaller turbo with lower boost levels then a walbro 190 may work fine for you. If you plan on really upping your boost levels a 190 with a rewire or a 255 may be what you need. Supra fuel pumps are also a cheaper alternative.

I agree, welded an extra bung won't affect the first o2 sensor and it will allow you to place the wideband sensor in the best possible spot downstream of the turbo.

Install them first, then let us know. I have a feeling you may have received the drip rails for a sebring which has a different curve to the roof. Please try to install and post some pics. If they fit, great find!

I am going to try that. In all my experience with ball joints they have always creaked While turning. Mine isn't making the noise while turning or traveling over bumps only from engine movement from clutch or idling.

Even while the car is just idling? Maybe when the ac is kicked on and Rpms slightly increase there is slight movement in balljoints? I plan on replacing them as soon as parts come in but any other things I should check?

I have an odd situation going on with my 97 talon awd. Last fall the motor was removed and rebuilt. By late fall, the engine was back in and car was back on the road with no real issues (small oil leaks to fix). Put some miles on the new motor and winter came and the car was stored until this...

The top sensor is the coolant temp sensor for your ecu. It actually tells your car how much fuel to add for starts, etc. The bottom is the coolant temp sensor for your gauge cluster. It only tells the gauge what to read.

I really have a feeling your bulbs are out. Check those before messing with anything that will cost money. It could also be the previous owner took the CEL bulb out to fool any possible buyers. Just a thought.

I just had my CEL come on for this. It throws a p1105 code and I ordered a new FPS from jnztuning.com. They have more in stock. I forget the part number but just call and tell them and they will know. They got it right to me and once I installed it, I took a scan tool, deleted the old CEL, and...

Hi, I just installed my safc II and I am confused about the readings that show up when I select "sensor check" under the etc. menu. My throttle is fine it goes up to 100% as it should. My knock is inaccurate, but I also have a 2g and I am aware that the safc cannot monitor knock correctly on a...