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2G Vacuum piping issue and no old oil pressure gauge in pump?

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Clermas

Proven Member
32
17
Oct 22, 2018
Henderson, Nevada
Hey Team,

So awhile back I posted the pictures of the engine bay and a couple of the guys saw that I had a T in my BOV vacuum line, and said that I should remove it. So I ordered up a bunch of new line and started to work on that on Friday. Following the diagram, I noticed that the aftermarket air cooling piping is missing a port to return the system to stock lines. I am guessing that is why they had the system the way they did. So let me explain what I found.

They had completely bypassed the waste gate solenoid. Had the vacuum line running from the waste gate actuator T'ed into the BOV vacuum line instead. I think this was done because the current pipping is missing the port for the proper T off the waste gate that is suppose to go > Waste Gate Actuator > Waste Gate Solenoid > to a location located after the turbo but before the cooler.

The main issue is I simply cant at this time return the lines to stock. I was hoping to get everyone's opinions, she seemed to run fine once I reconnected the BOV bypass line back to the intake, the stalling stopped anyways, as for performance well I haven't really put her through any paces yet.

While I was checking out the lines I was also planing on swapping out the oil pressure gauge, got underneath and noticed that I couldn't find the damn thing. My guess is that they replaced the oil pump and never installed the gauge? Thoughts? Thanks for all the support.

Here are some pics as I was returning the lines to stock, only to run in to this road block.

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so you don't have a fitting on your J pipe? cause it looks like you at least have the port for it (i circled it in green on your pic)

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as far as the oil filter housing, the oil pressure switch should be in the front and the oil pressure gauge sending unit should be at the rear.

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Thanks so much Dusty! I actually do have that port it looks like. Some one rammed a screw into it. I was not sure that was what that was for as it does not appear to have a nipple like the other ports for a hose to clamp on. Thanks a lot for the pictures also. I see on your oil unit that you have the "other end" of the connector, I seem to be missing that as well. The pictures helped out greatly thanks a million. :thumb:
 
Figured I just reuse this old post to ask a related question to my original. I ended up installing a T fitting in order to get both units installed onto the oil pump. I have more details about the installation in my build thread. However to make it brief since the change my oil pressure light now flickers off and on. I suspect possibly air in the line and I need to bleed it out. I just turned it over today to check for leaks etc after the weekend wrenching and noticed this worked fine before the initial removal. Here is a pic of the current installation. Thanks.

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sounds like something is restricting the flow of oil to the dummy light sensor, most likely somewhere in that T arrangement. That is the oil filter housing (OFH) that you are hooking the sensors up to.The gauge sensor belongs where you have it. There is a spot on the other side of the OFH for the dummy light sensor. I would put the sensors where they belong and do away with the T
 
Yes I saw that there should be a spot for it, however on my housing there is not port, there is a stamp in that spot which I thought was weird. The only port that is that size is where I added the T. Previously the dummy light was there and there was no gauge at all. Thanks for the info.
 
You mean there is a socket head plug where the sensor should be? Stamp? If you have the oil filter housing that the car came with, it should have the ports you need. The port may require a BSPT reducer if its too big- 3/8 bspt to 1/8bspt

Not NPT


BSPT.
 
There is a large port on the front side with a plug yes. I have a second oil filter housing that had two of the 1/8 BSPT ports. One in the front and one in the rear. However the installed had only the 1/8 in the rear and where the other should have been is a stamp. I understand what you are saying and I'll see about getting a reducer for the front port. Thanks again for the information, much appreciated.
 
Can't say for the flickering light, bad switch or connection maybe?
I know when I had my gauges and switch done with a T adapter, my readings weren't as consistent. eventually my innovate sending unit quit working and pressure readings were all over the place, vibrations killed it.
I dont think vibes killed a simple switch, but did It maybe get dropped or tossed around when you were setting this version up? Might toss a new one in since they're dirt cheap.

Personally I'd recommend doing away with the T and remote mounte your sensors on the chassis somewhere, as if you throw and acc belt right now, it's likely to take out that setup, and you may not catch it in time..
 
Dump that t they are prone to fail and dump all your oil. I use a 4 an to 1/8 bsp to 4an then run a braided 4 an line from that to my aftermarket senders. It looks like you have an unused 1/8 port pointing down that you could take the plug out of for the dummy light. Also the light flickering would possibly be from a poor connection especially if you are getting a good reading on your gauge.
 
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