bravos91tsiawd submitted a new DSM Profile :

First time DSM


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bravos91tsiawd updated First time DSM

Had a compression test done, low numbers(like 50 off) in second and third cylinders.
Ordered a new steering rack and front passenger axle(squeaky) installing soon
Also got some hatch hydraulics as the old ones were shot and that back is heavy af

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bravos91tsiawd updated First time DSM


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Got a tune up (new plugs oil change belt tightening) then immediate after fixed the idle surge via the biss screw . The next day the car wouldn't start so I took it back to the shop and low and behold, bad alternator

Its that time of the year for smog, cant believe I've owed the car for 2 years. Took it to the smog place and the technician said it has a miss Brought it to my mechanic to see if he could diagnose and compression was down to ~ 70 in #2 and #3 cylinder. Oh I almost forgot to mention my radiator blew where the neck connects to the upper housing so I replaced it with an aluminum Mishimoto about a month ago. Anyways mechanic said I need valve work and ive invested too much at this point so im going all in and shelling out the 2-3k ill need for the job.

This thread is for mainly myself so I felt like I should include the fact that the transmission synchros for the first and second gear are going out. 1st isn't so bad and will usually go into gear when the car stops but second grids often especially once warmed up. I'm thinking jacks transmissions for a rebuild when I finally have the money.

You can do the valve work yourself. 2-3k is too much for me. Pull the head yourself and take the head to a machine shop. About 300 max for a rebuild with mew valve seals. Then another 350ish in parts to do the timing and headgasket.

boostdawd said:

You can do the valve work yourself. 2-3k is too much for me. Pull the head yourself and take the head to a machine shop. About 300 max for a rebuild with mew valve seals. Then another 350ish in parts to do the timing and headgasket.

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I would but I already told my mechanic to tear down the engine to get a look at the valves and assess the bottom end health. It works out though because I dont gave a garage or work area to remove the head and and rather not do it on the street. Im also missing some of the tools I need like a torque wrench

I appreciate the input though!

Got the car back from the mechanic. New lifters, seals, exhaust valves, water pump, timing belt, etc. Mech said the wastegate actuator was frozen shut so ive babied the car the past couple of days but I pulled this piece in question and it seemed to work fine. Checked the flapper too and it moves freely. Checked for turbo play while the intake pipe was off and there was little to no play although the compression wheel didn't spin freely so that's kind of concerning. Since the head rebuild was done and I verified the wg actuator was good the car pulls like a dream so im not complaining. Also I passed smog thank god