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914 Cheeko

Probationary Member
28
0
Jul 10, 2018
Newtown, Connecticut
So i was removing my shitty IAC valve that came with the engine from DSM and when i tried slowly pulling it out the whole thing split apart into 3 sections (so far.) The first pic is how it came out once I unscrewed it. The second is what was stuck at first, but slid off. Now I'm stuck with the valve itself stuck in the port (third picture.)
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How do I get this out? I'm afraid if i try pulling it out any harder than I tried it's going to break a piece off into my engine. WD40?
 
The 3 bolt one is only half of the IAC for the 2g 4G63T I have. The other half that connects to the intake manifold that holdes the actual valve in place has 2 bolts. It doesn't have the stock GVR4 engine, it has a swapped Eclipse GSX 4G63T.

No, it's not. You bought the wrong one on ebay

I'm not just giving you an opinion, I've rewired a 90 ggsx with a 91 eclipse engine harness. Start over, because you're lost .

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No, it's not. You bought the wrong one on ebay

I'm not just giving you an opinion, I've rewired a 90 ggsx with a 91 eclipse engine harness. Start over, because you're lost .

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How would I get the 3 bolt one to fit? It's not that it wont go on it's that there are still parts being held in from the 2 bolt part that won't come out that block the rest from going in, unless the correct part doesn't have the actual valve in it and its just hollowed out so the valve that is on it now fits? Where should I start over from? I put the old defective IAC back in so I don't lose it. I got the car with the manifold, throttle body, IAC, etc that are on it now.
 
How would I get the 3 bolt one to fit?

Don't try to use the 3-bolt one.
Do this:
First, get those 2 screws out by whatever means necessary. Don't worry about re-using the screws. Don't reuse them. Your new ISC, when you buy a correct one, will come with 2 new screws and a new o-ring too.
Buy the ISC that has the 2-bolt flange. That's what everybody else in here is using.
Get this one: The Standard Motor Products AC146. Here's a link to where you can get that from a reputable dealer for $62.79:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,fuel+&+air,idle+air+control+(iac)+valve,6072

The link takes you right there, where it has the 3 choices of different brands that are available open already.
You'll notice this listing is under 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo 2 liter. That's OK.
I am recommending the $62 one because I am using one, it seems perfect, and because the Airtex one has mysteriously doubled in price which is annoying, and the cheapo one I would stay away from just because personally I stay away from the cheapo stuff.

When you look at that listing, pick the "info" button and look at the 3 pictures they show for it.
I'll post them here in the next post, just so you can see right here what a correct one looks like. It is complete. It is not open on one end with wires and stuff hanging out. It has the pintle and everything.
 
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Here I'm posting 2 pics from the SMP listing and also 2 pics from the Airtex listing, because they look the same, just, the Airtex pics show from some different angles that are helpful.

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Those 2 screws that you will need to replace, as I said they will come with your new IAC/ISC.
They are 5mm x 0.8mm pitch thread x 18mm long.
The hex head (wrench size) is 8mm.
And they will be zinc plated (silvery or yellowish color) for corrosion resistance. Don't put any "black oxide" screws in there. Black oxide stuff will corrode a lot faster.
 
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Photo by chryslerkid
I wasnt able to quote you I got an err.
Anywho you need to stop and just look really hard at at the one screw in red you can see. 180 deg from it is another they are like 10mm or something with two Phillip's screw spots (or striped out as in my cases). Remove those two only those and it will pull right out that 3 hole will never work I modified my 90 to work on that isc posted above from rock auto it is the only one you buy for these cars. I don't want to come off wrong so take this all constructively you are makeong this way harder than you need it to be. Please do yourself a favor if your still confused trust that we know that's the one you need at rock auto look at its picture and see what your missing if your still lost I have one of all 3 DSM isc motors I will post the one you have still in one piece.
 
No, it's not. You bought the wrong one on ebay

I'm not just giving you an opinion, I've rewired a 90 ggsx with a 91 eclipse engine harness. Start over, because you're lost .

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Testing reply.
Those 2 screws that you will need to replace, as I said they will come with your new IAC/ISC.
They are 5mm x 0.8mm pitch thread x 18mm long.
The hex head (wrench size) is 8mm.
And they will be zinc plated (silvery or yellowish color) for corrosion resistance. Don't put any "black oxide" screws in there. Black oxide stuff will corrode a lot faster.
Testing
 
There is no replacement half for the old brown style idle air control valve. If you stripped the screws remove the throttle body and use a drill to destroy the old bolts. All 1g and 2g use the same parts besides a few quirks in 89 and 90 with throttle stop switches and ignition coil driven tachometers.

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The old style pictured below is obsolete and you can not fix it. It must be replaced by the black piece

Should, not must. They can be fixed but it's much better to replace.

The new ones are much less likely to burn up the drivers in the ECU and cause other problems. But I've said that already.
 
Should, not must. They can be fixed but it's much better to replace.

The new ones are much less likely to burn up the drivers in the ECU and cause other problems. But I've said that already.
There are no parts available to fix them

My black box ECU does not have key driver's and can not be damaged. Position 30 is a stronger click because the brown toppers have a stronger motor. :sneaky:
 
There are no parts available to fix them

HaHaHa, the junk yards are full of parts which is where we used to go for the replacement parts to fix them before. Now it makes more sense to replace them, but it's still possible to fix one. I know, I have and still can but it's not worth anyone's time to do so.

My black box ECU does not have key driver's and can not be damaged. Position 30 is a stronger click because the brown toppers have a stronger motor. :sneaky:

That's pretty funny too. Yes, MD35940(2,3) ECU's don't use the M5269L driver IC but the SDK05 driver used still doesn't like driving shorts. If the Sanken driver can't be damaged then why are so many of them replaced?

With regard to whatever your trying to say about position 30, WTF?
 
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