http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/replacing-broken-fuel-pump-studs.256249/

I'm going to be attempting this fix from this post. Any one have any advice? Is it hard to take out the whole gas tank or is that just a waste of time?

I am worried about breaking old nuts bolts hoses while I take it out. Is this such a dangerous just i should think about getting a new gas tank? Some one from that thread said that draining the tank is actually not advised is that true? The plan was to snap the studs off by over torquing them. That's how i broke two on my last Talon, on my current Talon I stripped one of the studs and now the tank leaks when i fill it up completely.

I ordered a new fuel pump assembly from RTM (Which website is closed strangely), so I thought it was a good time to replace all the studs with larger ones. ALL and any advice tips tricks or knowledge would be helpful i don't want to blow my car up.
Thanks
John

Sorry forgot to add this. The plan is to snap the old studs off then to drill them out and then drill slightly larger holes. I thought this would make the least amount of possible sparks making it the safest since there will be no need for grinding.

you could drain the tank, let it dry completely and then use argon or carbon dioxide (inert and heavier than oxygen/air) to displace the air in the tank.
that should make it safe to drill

How do it use that gas and where do I get It.

We always filled ours with water before any grinding, welding or anything that would make a spark for safety. Just what we did on the farm.

The water idea sounds interesting. Have you ever taken the gas tank out of your car. Do you fill the tank 100% with water and leave it full while you work on it? Anyone else tried this or anything else?
Thanks

Or you could take the tank out and attach a hose to the exhaust pipe of another vehicle and run it to the tank. Allow it to idle for half hour to an hour with the exhaust going into the fuel tank. Then do the work. Exhaust is an inert gas I've seen many people do it this way. But beforehand remove all the gas and make sure its dry inside. Maybe rinse it with water a couple of times before the exhaust is added.

i can say that I haven't done it on my car, I have helped do motorcycle tanks and we always fill them with water, rinse and repeat and leave it as full as possible while working.
It would be A LOT of water but is safe.

Both ways are safe just working on a tank with 10 gallons of water would be a pita.

Wait why would it be a shame Brian?

Morning everyone this weekend I am attempting the stud repair and have a question. I am taking pictures and will do a write up after. I have the Rtm fuel pump assembly and was just double checking which wife goes where. Here are two pictures. Thanks for any help
John

At this point, confirm your wiring is correct using the following guide:
black with white stripe = power to the pump = terminal with "+" symbol engraved next to it
black = ground for all power terminals = terminal with ground symbol engraved next to it
yellow = power to the fuel gauge = terminal with "Ga" engraved next to it
yellow with blue stripe = power to the low fuel light = terminal with "L" engraved next to it

Click to expand...

RTM fuel pump sending unit install

RTM Fuel Tank Stud Repair Kit Install

Damn thanks dude. I thought that was lost since the site was down.

Dsmpagan said:

Wait why would it be a shame Brian?

Click to expand...

Shame? I don't follow. Just simply stating moving and working on a tank that a about 100lbs heavier is a pain in the ass . But hey at least it's easy to drain on a 1g. Both ways are safe and I like to repair any studed fuel tank with riv nuts myself then you can just use bolts.

The struggle is real. Still working on this project. Took 2 weeks off because of life but when i last left my project i had broke a fuel hard line, i think it is the return line. I fixed that today by running a rubber high pressure fuel line from the tank to where the hard line wasn't old and rusty about half way down the car, god i hope it doesn't leak. New problem today is the drain plug is leaking every so slightly. It forms a drip after about an hour. Any advice? I already bought plastic gaskets because pep boys didnt have the real drain plug and gasket in stock. I was thinking that maybe if i clean around the edges of the gas tank where the plug goes in might give it a flatter surface to sit on and seal better. Prob is the mess it makes to take the plug off every time. Any help would be huge i would love to get this old girl back on the road its the perfect time of year in CT to drive.