I am attempting a fuse box relocation (emphasis on 'attempting' ) and I am looking for a wiring diagram for the engine bay fuse box for a '97 GSX. The information I really need is the color codes for each wire and what each wire leads to in the fuse box.

I have a few wires that had their makeshift labels (created by me) scuffed or marked so that I cannot quite make-out what letter I have written on them and I now find myself with some wires not matching up. My thinking was that if I could at least have a handful of answers as to what each wire does for the fuse box, I could set about using trial by error and connecting a wire, seeing if the system it works or not and then determining whether it is the right wire or not. If not, I'd try the other wire and test the system again until it worked as intended. Hopefully this won't have any grave consequences but as of present it's the only plan I've got. This is literally the last step in my fuse box relocation and then I'm done

This would only have to be done with a couple wires, it's not like I have all 50 or so wires unmarked and will have a million solutions

Disclaimer: you HAVE to be meticulous and very organized when relocating your fuse box. If you think that you writing every letter in the alphabet and every number from 1 to 24 won't cause you to have a mix-up with some labels, you're a damn liar because I too thought I was being meticulous until I had the issue I just described above

Not really. If you buy another fuse box with wiring from a parts car it makes everything easier.

Buy another engine harness to hack extra wiring out of, to use to extend your existing wiring. That way all the colors line up to existing colors and looms

Good idea actually. How much does the fuse box differ from 2G to 2G? I'd imagine a Spyder might be a little bit of a different layout, but would the fuse boxes for say an RS or a GST be similar to that in a GSX?

Rs and gs fuse boxes are totally different from gst and gsx fuseboxes. Gst and gsx should be the same.

Rs/gs fuse box

You will need it to be specifically from a 2g 4g63 dsm. Take your time, unravel the donor harness slowly and organize wires so you can do your wiring on the kitchen table, and not hunched over the engine bay in your garage. Take notes, label wires, however you want to do it. That way later it's just having a cheat sheet to wire in the car in the garage

It sounds like over kill, but you shouldn't have any problems finding a molested engine bay harness from Miller parts or on Facebook. I'd imagine some one even has half a harness with an intact fuse box side they would sell pretty cheap.

But yeah, get another harness, de pin your fuse box, and then trace out as far back as you can from the donor harness so you can just solder your old fuse box pins back into feed wires for the donor fuse box

Hint hint, if you get a good harness you can also extend your fuel injector wiring and coil pack wiring to hide the harness that runs across the intake manifold. Just make the harnesses longer for each plug so you can run the main harness loom under the intake manifold instead of going over it.

Once you peel off the protective black loom you can see the miles of extra wire a spare harness can "donate" to your wire tuck project

It also makes everything a million times simpler because you don't have just random color wires to trace since they will be factory

Definitely some really good tips, Chrysler Kid. I feel as though I rushed the process slightly and it has definitely come back to bite me

As of yesterday nearly every system in the car works. Turning indicators, high beams and low beams, brake lights, ac and radiator fan controls, so I know I have those wires done correctly at least. But I agree that it would be best to redo the job and make sure I have it all 100%.

The issue I am having currently is that the car won't start? The engine is indefinitely getting power, there is fuel in the car, its getting compression and I can hear the engine sputtering and firing significantly, but it just won't seem to 'catch' and start running on its own. At this point it could be a million things and maybe sorting out the engine bay chassis fuse box would be the most logical first step, but I also feel like I'm missing something obvious it ran beautifully before I began the fuse box relocation so I cannot imagine what it could be .... but maybe it's a problem for another forum post https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cranks-and-fires-but-wont-start.518363/