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420A How to bleed slave cylinder?

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Brad Bell

Proven Member
192
5
Aug 15, 2014
Levant, Maine
I've bled my clutch countless times by having the pedal held down and cracking the bleeder with a hose going into a bottle of brake fluid. No air bubbles. But I still can't get my car into any gear, I've seen posts that there may be air still trapped in the slave cylinder, how can I get it out? Do I need to press on the fork? Or unbolt the slave cylinder and press it in that way? I've tried everything.
 
To bleed the clutch properly the slave needs to be fully depressed in the bore. Use a c-clamp to keep it held down and bleed as ususul.
 
To bleed the clutch properly the slave needs to be fully depressed in the bore. Use a c-clamp to keep it held down and bleed as ususul.
So do I do this without the slave installed? Compress the slave rod without the fork? Its gonna be a pain in the ass to get it installed once I bleed it.
 
You do it with every thing installed. Crack the bleeder loose and push the slave all the way in and tighten the bleeder. Use a c clamp to hold the slave in place and bleed the master as you usually do.

I dont know whats "a pain in the ass" for you but there is only one extra step.
 
You do it with every thing installed. Crack the bleeder loose and push the slave all the way in and tighten the bleeder. Use a c clamp to hold the slave in place and bleed the master as you usually do.

I dont know whats "a pain in the ass" for you but there is only one extra step.
Okay I tried it a few times, got some air bubbles out. But still no significant change to the clutch, still can't get it into gear. Not sure what else to try, totally clueless. What I don't understand is, the reason I replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder, was because the engagement point was right off the floor. So thinking the cylinders we're bad I replaced them and now it's actually worse than before! Haha these dsms are brutal sometimes. I've gone throith multiple slave cylinders and master cylinder so I know those are not the problem.
 
Where are you getting all these multiple master & slaves from? I believe in your other thread on clutch engagement TMZ ingormed you most part store master & salve are bad & highly referenced OEM. Have you followed his advise? Also I've had good luck with NAPA.
 
Couple other things to consider...

Did you adjust the master cylinder rod so that its just far enough so that you can push back on clutch fork by hand?

Is the clutch fork touching the housing when pedal fully pressed?

Yes I've gone through all the adjustment at the master cylinder rod, I've gone to both extremes, even with the rubber stopper removed I cannot get into gear. No clutch fork is not touching ( not even close) bell housing.
 
Where are you getting all these multiple master & slaves from? I believe in your other thread on clutch engagement TMZ ingormed you most part store master & salve are bad & highly referenced OEM. Have you followed his advise? Also I've had good luck with NAPA.
I got the first set from Rock Auto and fugfigu they must be junk. Got the second set from AutoZone which were quite expensive. I would have gone with oem but my dealer would have to order them and they wouldn't be here for at least 2 weeks. Also they cost a fortune.
 
....TMZ ingormed you most part store master & salve are bad & highly referenced OEM. Have you followed his advise? Also I've had good luck with NAPA.

can't get OEM

master cyl. part #MB911650 -- discontinued
slave cyl. part #04670065 -- discontinued
 
can't get OEM

master cyl. part #MB911650 -- discontinued
slave cyl. part #04670065 -- discontinued
This is for a 420a, not 4g63. They still make them i called my dealer. But I've gone through 2 sets of both master and slave cylinder with no luck, I can't believe it is those. I'm come to the conclusion that there is somehow still air in the line, which seems very slim because the pedal feels great and the slave moves a whole inch or so on the clutch fork. Or something is wrong internally whether it be the throw out bearing, broken pressure plate tooth, etc.
 
Okay just to help you out I discovered this on my dsm when I was having clutch problems so I would like to contribute to help you. There is a rubber hose that goes from your master cylinder reservoir to your actual clutch master cylinder. Now in my case the previous owner did not put a bolt back to the power steering line bracket that sits right below the clutch master cylinder reservoir. What this did was by hitting that rubber hose over time it developed a kink kind of link when you bend a garden hose it cuts flow of water off. Now this is a 19.00$ piece from mitsubishi I recommend replacing this piece alone before you go any further because if there is a kink in that line the clutch will never bleed correctly. And if it does like it did in my case it will will go bad again because the reservoir is being blocked off. Hoped this helped out.
 
I know its old but to say how
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old it is exactly I could not tell you, but my clutch works very well I have no problems with engaging disengaging my gears. I know the hose was the problem because I bled my clutch 2 nights earlier and it was working perfectly then all of a sudden my pedal lost pressure. I knew it was not my master cylinder because there was no leak by the pedal and I knew it was not my slave because if it was my clutch would not have been working perfectly a day or two ago. I attached pictures of the issue and the kinked area is marked with a zip tie. I know it looks okay outside the car but when installed the line will kink. Needless to say I ordered the new part so in 1-3 months when mitsubishi ships it to me I can drive my dsm again.
 
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