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2G TPS adjustment

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It will probably work. They make a thing called a back probe. I bought some cheapo ones and they work fine on our little wires. I have been known to use paperclips for a ton of things. You are just wanting to get to the metal connector but you may have to use a needle to get through the waterseal that is part of the connector. Try not to tear that back seal.
 
No, you just measure continuity on the pins

When it reads zero on a 2g it means it's closed

You use a .0177 feeler gauge between the throttle body and the stopper and rotate the TPS till it shows continuity

This is all covered in the factory service manual, and there are multiple threads on this site with pictures that describe this process with pictures and full detail

You can even measure the continuity with the tb off the car and the tps installed. There are 4 pins in the tps, logically the first and last pin are pins 1 and 4.

You have the bolts to the tps finger tight and rotate the tps till you find the continuity meter beeps to show it's a full connection, or at 0 resistance.

To define that further the ECU feeds the TPS voltage, and when the ECU reads the same voltage back from the tps, that voltage means the tps is closed. As the TB opens the tps sends less voltage back to the ECU to tell it how far open the TB is.

To get an extremely generic setting you can get a basic obd2 reader and view live data and you should see when the tps is at 0% telling the ECU the tb is closed.

It will probably work. They make a thing called a back probe. I bought some cheapo ones and they work fine on our little wires. I have been known to use paperclips for a ton of things. You are just wanting to get to the metal connector but you may have to use a needle to get through the waterseal that is part of the connector. Try not to tear that back seal.

To clear things up there is quite a difference between the 1g and 2g process. Half of the forum results contain incorrect information because the 1g procedure is mentioned and not the 2g

Also there are some very good videos on you tube that show this exact process. Watch the video while you do it yourself and it will make tons more sense. I think that's how I initially did mine
 
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Also there are some very good videos on you tube that show this exact process. Watch the video while you do it yourself and it will make tons more sense. I think that's how I initially did mine
Would a bad adjustment cause my car to sit at 2400 rpm in park?
 
Open and close the throttle by hand. Doubt you need adjustment. Check for sticking cable etc. Report back.

This is a rebuilt throttle body, cable is fine also. As soon as he car starts it goes straight up to like 2500. That’s why I think it’s the tps because I did take it off
 
This is a rebuilt throttle body, cable is fine also. As soon as he car starts it goes straight up to like 2500. That’s why I think it’s the tps because I did take it off

Check your ISC. Generally when they're bad you'll idle that high in park or neutral and around 1500 when in gear. There are various threads on how to test the ISC.
 
Would a bad adjustment cause my car to sit at 2400 rpm in park?

Car is auto 2g 4g63?

it would cause the transmission to act all out of whack wayy before you notice an idle problem.

2400 in park is more likely a vacuum leak. With the car running start wiggling hose connections, wiggle a fuel injector, see if you notice an audible hiss

I would un bolt the 2 cable bracket bolts holding the cable to the intake manifold and try pressing the throttle body closed by hand.

Also it may take you some time to learn the idle set procedure if this is a brand new rebuilt throttle body and the rebuilder messed with the throttle stop screw

Setting idle on these cars is like tuning a carburator. It's a pain in the ass
 
Car is auto 2g 4g63?

Yes it is an auto 4g63.

I wouldn’t know how it drives because I can’t even shift it anywhere since the rpm is so high. I rebuilt the throttle body myself chasing after the high idle after noticing the shaft seals needed replacing and gaskets. When you say vacuum leak that’s the same as doing a BLT right? I’ll give a start up later and do as you mentioned.

Also the cable you’re talking about, you mean the one that goes to the cruise control I think? I wouldn’t have to unbolt that would I, because the cable just clips in. I did take that out and put it back maybe I have it tight or something.

I'm thinking with the car off I could take off the throttle cable from the throttle body and start it, could that be a good way to test if it’s the cable causing this?

Does anyone think a start up video would help at all? I’ve been trying to find out the problem for a few weeks now. I’m about to just invest in ECMLink I heard that would finding the problem and I plan to get it sometime anyways.

I should also mention the high idle was an issue before the rebuild, it was rebuilt in an attempt to fix the problem. High idle started after I set the BISS screw correctly, previous owner had it screwed all the way in.

I’m guessing he had it that way to mask whatever the problem really was so he tried to get the idle down.
 
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I should also mention the high idle was an issue before the rebuild, it was rebuilt in an attempt to fix the problem. High idle started after I set the biss screw correctly, previous owner had it screwed all the way in. I’m guessing he had it that way to mask whatever the problem really was so he tried to get the idle down.

Yeah I had a similar problem. Mine was a combination of a bad intake manifold gasket and a few other things

I rebuilt a throttle body, I messed up the blade using a soft mallet. Basically the edge of the round blade was messed up and wouldn't close all the way. I had to slink my way onto eBay and bought one as a complete pull off with pigtails and all sensors for $90

Ecm link won't solve your problem. You can't change idle speed on a mechanical throttle body

Long story short if you back the throttle stop screw all the way out, and push the throttle body closed by hand, and the car still idles over 2 grand, you have a vacuum leak.
 
Yeah I had a similar problem. Mine was a combination of a bad intake manifold gasket and a few other things

I rebuilt a throttle body, I messed up the blade using a soft mallet. Basically the edge of the round blade was messed up and wouldn't close all the way. I had to slink my way onto eBay and bought one as a complete pull off with pigtails and all sensors for $90

Ecm link won't solve your problem. You can't change idle speed on a mechanical throttle body

No I wouldn’t want ecmlink yo solve my problem itself, but help me find it. But I’m about to go out here in a second and really take a good look at what’s going on.
 
it wouldn't hurt anything, but it's not going to show you where a vacuum leak is.

I took it pretty far. I blocked off all vacuum ports on the intake, throttle body, etc. I finally found it by doing a boost leak test

I mean not literally just look haha I’m gonna BLT and take a look at the throttle cable and stuff. Good idea on blocking off the other lines, would really help me focus the BLT near the TB
 
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