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2G White smoke

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victors_97dsm

Supporting Member
30
5
Aug 28, 2010
sierra vista, Arizona
I was told by a few trusted people that the smoke is a result of a leaky valve. So it will cost me about $1100 for valve job to factory specs (sooner before I cause more damage to car) The mechanic also said no need to replace valves just thouroughly cleaned out after 19 years of carbon build up. So, can I upgrade the cams to street/strip (stage2-BC cams) with stock springs/retainers and valves or the crower cams stage 1? Mind you, my GSX has over 147k mile and this will be the 1st time the engine will be cracked open? It still has the original T-25 with upgraded adjustable cams gears, upper i/c pipe, fmic, megan racing coil overs with upgraded slotted rotors and pads plus balanced and blue printed stock fuel injectors
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I'd get a second opinion. Never had a leaking valve cause smoke. Low compression, misfire at idle yep not smoke. I'd check the t25, when mine died it would dump white smoke like crazy drop the Down pipe and check for oil.
 
I'll do your valve stem seals for half of that. Plates on your truck say texas so bring it over

And there is no such thing as a leaky valve. It's either a head gasket, valve stem seals, or turbo

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First off white smoke (if it is truly white) is not a leaking valve seal. Coolant / water burns white. Oil burns blue. Fuel burns black.

Second your mechanic can not determine if your valves are in need of replacement or not without actually digging in to the engine. Cleaning the valve is not going to do much by itself.

If your car is truly burning white smoke then more than likely you have a head gasket issue. The only true way to tell is to do a compression / leak down test.
 
I'd get a second opinion. Never had a leaking valve cause smoke. Low compression, misfire at idle yep not smoke. I'd check the t25, when mine died it would dump white smoke like crazy drop the Down pipe and check for oil.
My second opinion came from a fellow DSM'r from El Paso, TX and he said to check the charge pipe for oil. Don't you think if it was a bad valve, it would idle or run differently? I will also check the T25 and run another compression test.

On the attached picture I have last years compression test results in green marker while the blue results are from year 2016. Today when I get off work, I will run another test
 

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I'll do your valve stem seals for half of that. Plates on your truck say texas so bring it over

And there is no such thing as a leaky valve. It's either a head gasket, valve stem seals, or turbo

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That's the exact type of smoke I get when I'm either at idle or normal driving under normal boost conditions but as I mentioned in a previous post, I will also check the turbo. Hopefully its the turbo because it would less down time. Yep, plates say TX but I actually live in Sierra Vista, AZ which is about 4-5 hours west of El Paso, Tx
 
First off white smoke (if it is truly white) is not a leaking valve seal. Coolant / water burns white. Oil burns blue. Fuel burns black.

Second your mechanic can not determine if your valves are in need of replacement or not without actually digging in to the engine. Cleaning the valve is not going to do much by itself.

If your car is truly burning white smoke then more than likely you have a head gasket issue. The only true way to tell is to do a compression / leak down test.
This is last years compression test results in green while the blue results are from 2016. The local mechanic said no need to purchase new valves and cleaning would be fine. So I'm like, not too sure about that which is why I'm asking for help on here. Exactly, what if there are more underlying issues besides the supposed "leaky valve"?
 

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I'll do your valve stem seals for half of that. Plates on your truck say texas so bring it over

And there is no such thing as a leaky valve. It's either a head gasket, valve stem seals, or turbo

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Whats the yellow rope used for in your picture?
 
I'd get a second opinion. Never had a leaking valve cause smoke. Low compression, misfire at idle yep not smoke. I'd check the t25, when mine died it would dump white smoke like crazy drop the Down pipe and check for oil.
Lets just say, I remove the DP and there is oil and of course the main culprit is the turbo. Would I also need to replace the exhaust since it still has a lot of oil buildup and/or residue from the bad turbo?
 
Why are you upgrading cams on a stock setup?
No need to replace exhaust. If there was oil in there it'll burn off. Check your turbo for shaft play. Leaky valve stem seals are very common on a 20 year old motor. I hope that $1100 included installing cams and a timing belt job!
 
Why are you upgrading cams on a stock setup?
No need to replace exhaust. If there was oil in there it'll burn off. Check your turbo for shaft play. Leaky valve stem seals are very common on a 20 year old motor. I hope that $1100 included installing cams and a timing belt job!
I still have the stock exhaust and was just asking since it still has all that residue from the oil buildup from stock. Just an idea on upgrading the valve train just in case the valve stems were bad. The timing belt, water pump and tensioner were already replaced after I purchased the car. But yeah I dont think the quote includes making sure the timing is correct and yes it doesnt include replacing the cams. So I might have to look for a mechanic who knows the ins and outs of the 4G63 motor. Once I get off work in a few hours I will double check the shaft play, DP and charge pipe for oil
 
Whats the yellow rope used for in your picture?
It keeps his valves from compressing while he is changing his valve seals. Stuff rope in the cylinder and bring it up to TDC so the valves don't fall in during the work and also so the valve and spring don't move together. I just tore down a 2g head and had it on the floor but still had to put some rags under the valves to keep them from compressing while I compressed the springs to remove the keepers.
Notice he has a screwdriver in the next cylinder to see where the piston is at. :)
Nice pictures @chrysler kid !
 
I still have the stock exhaust and was just asking since it still has all that residue from the oil buildup from stock. Just an idea on upgrading the valve train just in case the valve stems were bad. The timing belt, water pump and tensioner were already replaced after I purchased the car. But yeah I dont think the quote includes making sure the timing is correct and yes it doesnt include replacing the cams. So I might have to look for a mechanic who knows the ins and outs of the 4G63 motor. Once I get off work in a few hours I will double check the shaft play, DP and charge pipe for oil

Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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When my 14b had tons of shaft play it would pressurize the crank case through the oil drain pipe, with the leaky valve stem seals feeding oil and boost in from the head I could brake boost out enough smoke to make you legitimately concerned that a house in your neighborhood was on fire. I mean you couldn't see the street signs it would get so hazy
 
Break a shaft and you become the neighborhood mosquito fogger......THE WHOLE WAY HOME.....and people behind you have to STOP. I laugh now but at the time I was SUPER WORRIED.
 
Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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I'll do your valve stem seals for half of that. Plates on your truck say texas so bring it over

And there is no such thing as a leaky valve. It's either a head gasket, valve stem seals, or turbo

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That's exactly how my car smokes....and everyone behind me gets a taste of 4g63 pleasure. Here is a pic of my plugs
 

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Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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Cleaned out all oil from bottom of pan
 

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Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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Isn't there suppose to be an exhaust gasket? First time I've ever removed DP
 

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Basically a compression test will give you your answer

Readings on a 2g that are 160+ show that the cylinders are already coated in oil and giving high readings

150ish readings are normal dry compression for a high mileage motor

Under 140 and you have a bad ring, or head gasket or possibly valve train damage.

A bad turbo will coat the downpipe in oil and some smoke in boost,

Bad valve stem seals will fill the exhaust manifold with oil. Note cylinders in the middle are wet with oil.

Best answer is to remove the exhaust manifold and look inside for oil

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No signs of oil in charge pipe
 

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Isn't there suppose to be an exhaust gasket? First time I've ever removed DP

Yeah the gasket usually sticks to the housing on the turbo

The T25 in my 96 pushes what I would consider an abnormally large amount of oil into the intercooler piping and doesn't smoke, so the turbo should be ok

If the turbo is bad you would see oil pooled in the bottom of the down pipe, yours looks relatively clean

So next place to check is the exhaust manifold.

I strong recommend doing a compression test before concluding it's a certain issue, piston rings causing blow by can also cause the car to smoke, though usually with more severe and pronounced symptoms like random misfiring and fouling of only 1 plug
 
I was told by a few trusted people that the smoke is a result of a leaky valve. So it will cost me about $1100 for valve job to factory specs (sooner before I cause more damage to car) The mechanic also said no need to replace valves just thouroughly cleaned out after 19 years of carbon build up. So, can I upgrade the cams to street/strip (stage2-BC cams) with stock springs/retainers and valves or the crower cams stage 1? Mind you, my GSX has over 147k mile and this will be the 1st time the engine will be cracked open? It still has the original T-25 with upgraded adjustable cams gears, upper i/c pipe, fmic, megan racing coil overs with upgraded slotted rotors and pads plus balanced and blue printed stock fuel injectors
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T25 impeller and exhaust manifold oil build up...sign of bad turbo or leaky valve?
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T25 impeller and exhaust manifold oil build up...sign of bad turbo or leaky valve?
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This smoke was after I put on new DP exhaust gasket and checked turbo for oil. Now I will try s thicker oil with oil treatment
 

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Replaced old 15W30 for 15W50 and at that time burned out all oil in cylinder chamber. Meow its time to change our old exhaust manifold gasket for a new one? What you all think?
 

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