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Not enough clutch adjustment

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AndrewC

5+ Year Contributor
58
2
Nov 6, 2017
Portland, Oregon
I'm almost to the point to where I can drive my 1G Talon with an XTD stage 4 clutch. After I bled the clutch and know there's no air, the pedal is still barely off the floor. I went to adjust the pedal under the dash and it's already maxed out. What can I do? Is there a different master cylinder I can use? Can I just take it off and cut the adjustment rod and weld a spacer on it?
 
Alright I'll look into it

Okay so the assembly fix is for when the pedal has play in it without actually pushing the clutch? Because there's absolutely no play in my clutch pedal, it's instant pressure from the clutch.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You may need to shim the pivot ball (fulcrum). Or if its worn really bad, replace it. Same for the release fork.

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I had clutch engagement issues in my first gen as well. I rebuilt/replaced everything including the clutch pedal assembly, master/slave, and entire flywheel/pressure plate/clutch assembly. Turned out being a bent shift fork. Check and see if at full pedal travel the shift fork is hitting the opening in the bell housing.
 
Okay so the assembly fix is for when the pedal has play in it without actually pushing the clutch? Because there's absolutely no play in my clutch pedal, it's instant pressure from the clutch.
Look again. Grab the 3 or 4 inch piece of metal attached to the master cylinder clevis. Obviously its under the dash. Grab the pedal with your other hand. Try amd move them independently. I would bet it does. If this isnt true you have problems in one or more of the following. Master or slave leaking or still not fully bled. Worn fork and/or ball. Improperly stepped flywheel.
 
Like said above the pedal is probably worn out. If you can lift the clutch pedal up and the arm doesn't move the end is worn. The arm is kinda like a double d or spooned I can't remember but anyways the arm keys onto it and wears causing a lot of slack no matter how tight you get the end nut. I usually take it apart and go to the hardware store if the bushings are worn out and get the appropriate sized bronze bushings, don't know off the top of my head the size it's been a couple years since I've rebuilt one. Replace all the bushings and then weld the arm solid to the pivot rod. I've done this to 3 or 4 for myself and locals and all were easily adjusted afterwards.
 
Thanks for all the input I'll check everything I didn't today. Also I checked where the fork was sitting it the hole for it and it seemed a little more towards the driver side and does sit on the slave rod.
 
So I got home and sure enough the pedal can be pulled back to where it's supposed to be. But it's no slop or play in the assembly it feels like it's sucking so there's still air in the system.
 
Ok so I had a friend come over and attempt to bleed the clutch again. That didn't work so I crawled under the dash and moving the pedal back up doesn't move the rod. So clutch assembly is coming out. Was really trying to avoid this LOL
 
Ok so I had a friend come over and attempt to bleed the clutch again. That didn't work so I crawled under the dash and moving the pedal back up doesn't move the rod. So clutch assembly is coming out. Was really trying to avoid this LOL

Not a terribly fun job but it'll feel like a new car when you are done. I'd keep these in mind whether you plan to weld the assembly or not.

Bronze Clutch Pedal Assembly Bushings
 
So assembly is out and it's super obvious it's been out before. The bushing for the clutch master rod it perfect. Someone had it out and welded it but forgot to weld the nut it looks like? Idk the the rod on the clutch pedal side it already welded from the factory. Gonna zap that nut to the rod because I can see the rod turning inside the nut then throw it back in. (It was horrible getting it out)
 
I've been fighting this for so long. I got it welded and put back in and there's still play in the pedal. I bled the clutch for like 10 minutes and when you release it still has to be pulled up to be even with the brake pedal.
 
have you pulled back the boot the slave cylinder to see if its leaking any fluid?
 
I've actually took the master cylinder apart to do some jank stuff LOL. But I took the assembly back out way easier with a friend. And found out the welds broke. Probably welded too cold, turned it up and welded it back together. Gonna put it back in and test it today.
 
So i put the assembly back in. When the pedal is all the way up and i start to push on it there's direct action on the other side where the rod is. Then when I let off it still only comes back part way. I pull it back to where it should and it doesn't move the rod side at all. I'm completely lost, I've had this dumb assembly put like 4 times and getting tired of this. I really need some help with this.
 
I also don't understand how it ONLY does this while the master cylinder is hooked up. I took it out again to verify the welds for the 900th time and it's all welded how it's supposed to be. But when the slave is not hooked up it's perfect and has no play in it.
 
So when there's pressure on the arm stopping it from moving (Kinda acting as a master cylinder) the rod still spins under all the welds. I'm gonna get another clutch assembly and try again.
 
Well I'm gonna give it one last ditch effort. I'm being super haggard right now, I cut the welds and part of the nut with a sawzall and exposed the rod that spins in the nut. I could see the rod spinning in it. I welded it back together and no more play in it, then I installed it and there's still play in it which I'm going to assume it's the clutch pedal itself having slop. I'm gonna take it out tomorrow again and see if I can fix it. If I can't I'll go get one from a junk yard then you who actually knows what they're doing LOL
 
I welded on the side of where the pivot arm is, and the spring and what not. I welded the stud to the nut, then the nut to the washer and to the pivot arm itself.
 
No and I feel like I made a mistake doing that. I'm gonna go to a junk yard and there's a 1.8 there and hopefully the assemblies are the same and I'm gonna start over.
 
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