JaKee003 said:

I just bought a 95 gst and was given some gaskets and a rubber seal( MD343563 ). I was told it has a front case leak, im new to working on 2gs so im confused on what the problem really is and how to fix it. If you have any suggestions that can help me, let me know

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Sorry, you didn't really ask a specific question. The second gen motor is the same as the first gen, so do the same thing

Also nothing you posted a picture of, is the main case gasket. The picture you posted is the oil filter housing gasket, the turbo oil drain gasket upper and lower, and the engine rear main crank seal.

Do you know where the leak is or are you just guessing? It may help to actually look under the car to determine where the leak is at. you may want to take it to a mechanic for expert advise if you're not familiar with a 4 cylinder engine

I was told by the previous owner it was a front case leak. The leak is on the timing belt side

JaKee003 said:

I was told by the previous owner it was a front case leak. The leak is on the timing belt side

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Ok to replace the front case seal you need to remove the oil pan, timing belt, water pump, balance shaft belt, timing tensioner, timing arm, timing pulley, oil filter housing, crank shaft pulley, oil pump pulley, balance shaft belt tensioner, balance shaft sprocket and basically the entire front of the engine. You literally have to remove every piece off of the side of the motor to change the gasket. It is the most difficult job to perform on these car with the engine in the car. It would be easier if you removed the engine from the car to do this job if it's your first time doing it

A shop would charge $1200 to replace a front case gasket which costs $3

Is the car in good shape, or is it pretty run down?

The front case gaskets do not leak on these cars unless they have been removed before and then reinstalled incorrectly. It is most likely the crank seal and cam gear seals leaking. Again Those seals also cost around $3 each but require doing a complete overhaul removing the timing belt and timing components

To correctly set the timing belt it requires specialty tools which no shops have access to. If you take the car to a mechanic they will most likely not set timing correctly and the car will have issues that can ruin the motor pretty quickly. Again parts and labor for a timing belt and water pump job will be at least $800, more if you take it to a shop that won't screw you over. Search for Alamo autosports in dallas

Welcome to dsm ownership. I have all the specialty tools needed for these cars if you want to rent them from me, I'm north of dallas.

my first GST was a 95. It had the same problem as your prior to me getting it. the guy i got it from swapped in a 6bolt but didn't put the front seal on the oil pump. he made it 7 miles and it was destroyed.


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make sure and put a new timing belt on it. Might as well get rid of the balance shafts too.
here is a link to the engine section of the 1995 service manual

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VFAQ 2g timing belt replacement

VFAQ: balance shaft eliminator kit install

balance shaft bearing removal video

chrysler kid said:

Ok to replace the front case seal you need to remove the oil pan, timing belt, water pump, balance shaft belt, timing tensioner, timing arm, timing pulley, oil filter housing, crank shaft pulley, oil pump pulley, balance shaft belt tensioner, balance shaft sprocket and basically the entire front of the engine. You literally have to remove every piece off of the side of the motor to change the gasket. It is the most difficult job to perform on these car with the engine in the car. It would be easier if you removed the engine from the car to do this job if it's your first time doing it

A shop would charge $1200 to replace a front case gasket which costs $3

Is the car in good shape, or is it pretty run down?

The front case gaskets do not leak on these cars unless they have been removed before and then reinstalled incorrectly. It is most likely the crank seal and cam gear seals leaking. Again Those seals also cost around $3 each but require doing a complete overhaul removing the timing belt and timing components

To correctly set the timing belt it requires specialty tools which no shops have access to. If you take the car to a mechanic they will most likely not set timing correctly and the car will have issues that can ruin the motor pretty quickly. Again parts and labor for a timing belt and water pump job will be at least $800, more if you take it to a shop that won't screw you over. Search for Alamo autosports in dallas

Welcome to dsm ownership. I have all the specialty tools needed for these cars if you want to rent them from me, I'm north of dallas.

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Or remove balancer, install screw in seal, remove seal, coat new seal and crank in lithium, drive new seal with appropriate pipe. 3 hours labor. I closed up shop seven years ago but I still remember how I kept cheap Dallas people on the road .

Ligo12

briank said:

Or remove balancer, install screw in seal, remove seal, coat new seal and crank in lithium, drive new seal with appropriate pipe. 3 hours labor. I closed up shop seven years ago but I still remember how I kept cheap Dallas people on the road .

Ligo12

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Do it for him. I've seen classifieds and if he bought the 95 I'm thinking of, it needs tons of work.

BTW brian if you have spare dsm parts you should sell them to me

The car is in good condition, head was rebuilt a couple years ago at a shop in plano. Car runs perfect I only need to fix the leak to pass inspection

JaKee003 said:

The car is in good condition, head was rebuilt a couple years ago at a shop in plano. Car runs perfect I only need to fix the leak to pass inspection

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Is it a red 95?


And no you don't need to fix the leak to pass inspection.

Currently this is what it looks like under the car

JaKee003 said:

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Currently this is what it looks like under the car

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There were 2 red ones for sale at similar times, one was nearly stock with stock rims, so that's the one I'm thinking of and it needed a new oil pump but the engine was also rebuilt by a shop in Plano. There was another red one that was lowered with rims but he was in Denton I think, and his listing just said it needs work.

Anyways, the leak is so bad it almost makes me think it's the power steering pump leaking onto the alternator.

The front case/oil pump could be leaking severely from a misaligned oil pump. It also could be the oil filter housing gasket, or it could be all 3 of those.

Long story short it needs a complete maintenance overhaul on the front of the motor. If it's a good car, not missing any pieces, the $1200 you put in can definitely be considered a recoverable expense when it comes to resale value. A clean 95gst with no other problems and working ac should be worth at least $3k

I bought mine for $1500 and it came with a few extras. I looked up the shop you told me and theres one closer to where I live. Its the same Alamo motorsports but the one in Arlington

JaKee003 said:

I bought mine for $1500 and it came with a few extras. I looked up the shop you told me and theres one closer to where I live. Its the same Alamo motorsports but the one in Arlington

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Ok that one isnt the car with a rod knock.

And yes that is the same Alamo autosports I was talking about

Best to call or stop by for a quote. It's hard to tell where the leak is exactly so they may need to look at the car in person first

Alright man thanks for the help. I’ll come back to the forums if I have any other questions

briank said:

Or remove balancer, install screw in seal, remove seal, coat new seal and crank in lithium, drive new seal with appropriate pipe. 3 hours labor. I closed up shop seven years ago but I still remember how I kept cheap Dallas people on the road .

Ligo12

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Would you consider doing it for me. I can bring you the car and pick it up when its ready

Shudders. How/why was the car still being driven with that huge of an oil leak? If the car is still driveable, I would clean that area off. Will need a lot of degreaser and parts cleaner. Remove upper/lower timing cover, accessory belts, alternator etc. Put oil in the engine if it is low. If you are lucky, and the leak is so bad, you may be able to find it just by priming the oil pump with a drill (timing belt will need to be off for this.) Or just start the car (preferably with a helper handy to immediately shut it off) and watch where the oil will sip from. It will not take more than 5 seconds to find out! Good luck. With that much oil, my guess would be the front crank seal.

diambo4life said:

Shudders. How/why was the car still being driven with that huge of an oil leak? If the car is still driveable, I would clean that area off. Will need a lot of degreaser and parts cleaner. Remove upper/lower timing cover, accessory belts, alternator etc. Put oil in the engine if it is low. If you are lucky, and the leak is so bad, you may be able to find it just by priming the oil pump with a drill (timing belt will need to be off for this.) Or just start the car (preferably with a helper handy to immediately shut it off) and watch where the oil will sip from. It will not take more than 5 seconds to find out! Good luck. With that much oil, my guess would be the front crank seal.

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Car is not being driven right now. I bought the car like that and havent cleaned that area. Leak is coming from the timing belt side for sure but I was told it needs a crank and cam gear seal. I just dont have the tools and time to fix it and I rather have someone with experience do it for me.

That could even be a valve cover leak from a valve cover gasket or a cracked cover. The cam seals are very well known leakers. You need to pull the alternator or cover it and then soak it with about two cans of good degreaser and then pressure wash the crap out of it and then use brake cleaner to further degrease it until its spotless. Go to a brick and morter parts store and get oil dye and borrow their uv light, add the dye to the oil, run the engine for a few minutes and see where the leak is coming from with the light.

motomattx said:

That could even be a valve cover leak from a valve cover gasket or a cracked cover. The cam seals are very well known leakers. You need to pull the alternator or cover it and then soak it with about two cans of good degreaser and then pressure wash the crap out of it and then use brake cleaner to further degrease it until its spotless. Go to a brick and morter parts store and get oil dye and borrow their uv light, add the dye to the oil, run the engine for a few minutes and see where the leak is coming from with the light.

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I just want take it to someone that can fix it for me so I can start to daily it. Im new to owning dsms and this is my first turbo car so im learning but id rather take it to someone that knows what theyre doing

I sent you a message. I can do it if you bring it up here