in my experience with metal in the oil, it get everywhere so when i had mine torn down after finding that the rod bearing for #2 was destroyed was i had the machine shop hot tank everything, blow it out and tank it again. the hope is that the little bit that didnt come out when it was there after they did their job is that the little bit that may be left the filter will catch. when you fire it back up when done you may want to change oil a couple times in the first 500-1000 miles which is my plan. hope that helps

your front case/ oil pump is most likely trashed, here is what it has in the service manual if you wanna check it.

If you have metal in the oil, all the oil feed areas are going to have to be flushed out ( block, head, turbo, etc.). Your oil pump should be inspected/replaced. If you don’t clean all the oil passages out you run the risk of premature bearing, pump, cam, and lifter failure.

You said the cooler is trashed but is the filter housing? Meaning you have an external oil cooler? If so clean that filter housing out. The cooler itself will probably be trash. If you have a water/oil filter housing trash it and get another one.

Trash that crank! you shouldnt cut a nitrided crank anyway, and even if its for street use it will still see USE, doesnt matter. Even if it didnt need cut, you still have metal particles up inside of the passages in the crank that you will never get completely out no matter what. The same applies to the lifters, they will be full of metal shavings that can empty into the oil at any time in the future, the valve cover baffles should also be pulled and the valve cover hot tanked to get the debris out of it.

If you dont you or whoever owns that engine or engine parts in the future will be back here wondering why their engine spun a bearing, it might last a day, it might last a year but eventually it will catch up with it. Always ask yourself this question when pondering something like this: "would I use any of these parts in an airplane engine that I am going to be flying on?" if your answer is no then dont bother, toss them.

Thanks for the help everyone. I know I'm taking a risk with the crank. Except my crank isn't nitrided, mine is only hardened. And I'm completely rebuilding the engine and boring out the cylinders. So everything is going to get treated. I also had to buy a new head for it because the old one dropped a valve. When I get home I'm gonna take the pump and ofh apart and see if I can find anything. I've seen that a lot of people have grinded cranks and have had no issues. If I learn the hard way I learn the hard way.

the 1.8L crank can be ground, thats why they have the rework dimension in the FSM

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and for the DOHC it says:

and gives no rework specs.

It'll be cheaper in the long run to just replace the crank.

Every time i have found a ground 4g63 crank in an engine, they are always in rough shape. I can't say for sure it was because the crank was ground but Mitsubishi has to have a good reason for nitriding them and specifying no to rework them.

Your crank is nitrided/hard coated from the factory.

I've seen only 2 people that could have had a failure due to a ground crank. But other than that I see people that who have done it and made good power. And other people that just say "Don't do it" so I'm going to take the chance because I'm not spending $600 on a new crank when I've seen people have good luck with it. Yes, the motor is going to be fully built internals but if it blows it blows. I'd rather have the experience than just people saying don't do it just because Mitsubishi says not to when people have done it.

You dont need to spend money on a new crank, a good used one with no damage will work fine for under $100.

Alright well I'm probably gonna end up getting one now. And good thing I opened and started to do my balance shaft delete because the hole that the shaft goes it and the hole where the gear goes through is completely mangled. And because of that I'm not gonna trust my oil filter housing and get a new one.