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ECMlink Leaning Itself Out and High Boost Misfire

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If that leak down test shows bubbles in the coolant, then I am almost positive that you already have your answer. Your log looks almost identical to what mine did when I had the same issue. If you are not losing coolant in the overflow yet, it could just be because the leak is currently so small. Also you may be losing your coolant by burning it. Just in a very small amount.

Even some people that do the head gasket 100% by the book have issues getting MLS gaskets to seal.

So I went to go start it rn and nothing from the injectors. They have power but aren't getting yanked to ground. After cranking and screwing around suddenly injectors 1&2 decided to start firing. First number 3 didn't want to fire and now this.


Also as I've been typing this up I've been cranking and turning it off and back on and injector 4 just decided to join the party. WTF
 
So I went to go start it rn and nothing from the injectors. They have power but aren't getting yanked to ground. After cranking and screwing around suddenly injectors 1&2 decided to start firing. First number 3 didn't want to fire and now this.


Also as I've been typing this up I've been cranking and turning it off and back on and injector 4 just decided to join the party. WTF
With it running I started tapping on injector 3 and it came to life. Back on all 4. Wtf
 
Might be a bad / dying resistor pack.

I think I fingered the injector issue out. I've been using a NAPA paper fuel filter for over a year with no issues no complaints but figured since I'm on E85 I should change it before it deteriorates. Pulled it out a few weeks ago and put in an autozone one. Cut the napa one open and it was still perfect inside. Nothing weird. Then this started happening. So I pulled the autozone one out and cut it open. The element was all nasty and sticky. They must be using a different adhesive. I let it sit on my hands for a few minutes and it tacked up real good after the E85 evaporated. I think after it sits for a while some fuel drains back and the adhesive sticks the injectors closed then when you're cranking the pump is washing fresh fuel by it and dissolving some of it slowly. So I tested this and put a heat lamp over the injectors for a few minutes after it wouldn't start. After a few cranks all injectors were online. The other day it took 20minutes of cranking to get all 4 online.

One issue down.......
 
MAF suggests a boost leak, retest. Your injectors arent setup correctly, your timing and fuel tables are stock and untouched. You paid for V3, stop using sliders.

Tested to 40 psi. It's tight. The injectors are setup correctly if you're referring to when you open the fuel tab it says they're some other size. The global % is applied for 1250s at 42.5psi. Otherwise I'd like to know what you mean.
 
No just new e85 and ran a tank.

Still leaning itself out at the 1900hz area. Could that be from only using sliders?

Not sure. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in on that. I doubt it's because you're only using sliders. Post a log.
 
I know little about e85. Your MAF can't right. You want wbfactor as close to zero as you can get it. You also have some knock to deal with and charging system needs to be checked as well. Drops to 12.7 volts at one point.
 
If you get your "WBFactor" to 0%, you would stop leaning out. Your car thinks it is getting less air than it actually is at that frequency, which causes the wideband to read lean.

- it only applies at WOT
-https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2
- it should only take a few pulls to iron out.
- Stop using sliders.
 
I know little about e85. Your MAF can't right. You want wbfactor as close to zero as you can get it. You also have some knock to deal with and charging system needs to be checked as well. Drops to 12.7 volts at one point.

I'm tuning mostly using maf comp sliders LOL that's why it's so off. Charging system is fine. Under wot that isn't accurate through the ecu. 13.8 is the lowest it actually drops to.

If you get your "WBFactor" to 0%, you would stop leaning out. Your car thinks it is getting less air than it actually is at that frequency, which causes the wideband to read lean.

- it only applies at WOT
-https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2
- it should only take a few pulls to iron out.
- Stop using sliders.
What maf and turbo is on this thing?

Td06 FP 20g and 2g maf. Congrats bastard on becoming a vendor dude.

With the tables I'm not really sure how to manipulate them smoothly and efficiently. I'd love to learn and I'm reading through ecmlinks site also found something called link tools but not sure how to download it.
 
i'm confused. You can use the maf comp sliders for getting your WBfactor to line up. Did you read the link i posted? It really isnt that scary. If you don't have the nerve to adjust your maf to get WBfactor in line, you should probably pay someone to tune it.

We keep giving you the answer and it seems like you don't want to try and fix it.
 
i'm confused. You can use the maf comp sliders for getting your WBfactor to line up. Did you read the link i posted? It really isnt that scary. If you don't have the nerve to adjust your maf to get WBfactor in line, you should probably pay someone to tune it.

We keep giving you the answer and it seems like you don't want to try and fix it.
The issue is not that it's running lean rn. The issue is that when I fix it using the sliders it's fine for a while and without making any other changes, it starts slowly running leaner and leaner ONLY in that certain MAF frequency. So I've BEEN fixing the AFRs and they're fine. Then suddenly day after day the car is running leaner and leaner in that range without me making any adjustment to anything. THATS the issue. I want to figure out if it's a mechanical thing first before I spend time or money on tuning it only to have it lean itself out again and have to redo everything. That clear it up?
 
The car is no longer leaning out because I've been tuning around it but that weird bump in maf comp around 1900 Hz was not there it was flat and smooth like the rest of the graph after it. It started leaning itself out around that area and I've had to raise maf comp, more and more and more. Seems to have stopped doing that tho.

So it is or isn't getting leaner?

For the safety of the motor, you still need to get your WBfactor dialed in. Your car isn't seeing the air it thinks it is and is not adding enough fuel causing you to run lean. Also, if you get it dialed in, the WBfactor itself would be a good indication of drift over time as the WBfactor would slowly get more and more off again.
 
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