Hello, this is kind of embarrassing but has anyone ever used manzo lowering springs on their Eclipse. Money is not my friend lately but I took the cheap route and went with these and "free shocks" that were left in the trunk of a car like mine in besslers pull and save. They were brand new sealed in a box . Anyhow, is there a way to tell which spring is front and which is back.. I feel like a moron now but the spring I thought was for the front (short fat) matches the spring I took off the rear. Would the taller springs be for the front or rear. I installed the taller in back and pray to god it will settle cause they don't look any lower then I had. Thanks ahead

You will quickly learn that going cheap on suspension parts usually is regrettable. Pretty sure wider spring goes in back. If your car is lowered you will blow through cheap shocks. Even the stock kyb gr2s will blow out prematurely with a 1.5" drop (I still use them with my ST springs because they are often only $20 each on wholesaler closeout from rock auto).
With lowering springs you really have to put them all on before you can see how they fit.
Never had experience with Manzo, but the vast majority of cheap springs tend to have an extreme drop.
I prefer springs and struts over coilovers (I prefer simplicity) but you have to find the right combo or you will hate how the car feels.

PlanZero said:

You will quickly learn that going cheap on suspension parts usually is regrettable. Pretty sure wider spring goes in back. If your car is lowered you will blow through cheap shocks. Even the stock kyb gr2s will blow out prematurely with a 1.5" drop (I still use them with my ST springs because they are often only $20 each on wholesaler closeout from rock auto).
With lowering springs you really have to put them all on before you can see how they fit.
Never had experience with Manzo, but the vast majority of cheap springs tend to have an extreme drop.
I prefer springs and struts over coilovers (I prefer simplicity) but you have to find the right combo or you will hate how the car feels.

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Thanks a lot bro and nice rides

PlanZero said:

You will quickly learn that going cheap on suspension parts usually is regrettable. Pretty sure wider spring goes in back. If your car is lowered you will blow through cheap shocks. Even the stock kyb gr2s will blow out prematurely with a 1.5" drop (I still use them with my ST springs because they are often only $20 each on wholesaler closeout from rock auto).
With lowering springs you really have to put them all on before you can see how they fit.
Never had experience with Manzo, but the vast majority of cheap springs tend to have an extreme drop.
I prefer springs and struts over coilovers (I prefer simplicity) but you have to find the right combo or you will hate how the car feels.

Click to expand...

Something else you may know, on my front there is a wishbone the shock sits it... the right bolt finally came undone but the left has been a complete pain in @$$. I couldn't get it for nothing. I was under the impression it was a through bolt from left to right... is it threaded in on the left side also cause I can't get my breaker on it good enough to not round it off

Thomas Mason said:

Something else you may know, on my front there is a wishbone the shock sits it... the right bolt finally came undone but the left has been a complete pain in @$$. I couldn't get it for nothing. I was under the impression it was a through bolt from left to right... is it threaded in on the left side also cause I can't get my breaker on it good enough to not round it off

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You're talking about 40279c?

If I remember correctly, it was installed from the factory so that the bolt's head is towards the backside of the car, and is blocked by another piece of the suspension (tie rods?) that you'll have to remove to slide the bolt out. Many reinstall the bolt the other way around for ease of disassembly in the future, but I suspect Mitsubishi designed it this way for safety: if the nut ever came undone, the bolt could only back out so far before it's stopped by hitting another piece of the suspension. You'll notice this on a lot of the suspension bolts.

I'll check it out thank you I don't think it's hitting anything but could be I guess. So you think it only has to be undone from the right side then pushes through like I did on the left? Hope so cause it's pretty rounded now

Thomas Mason said:

I'll check it out thank you I don't think it's hitting anything but could be I guess. So you think it only has to be undone from the right side then pushes through like I did on the left? Hope so cause it's pretty rounded now

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You should have a nut on one side (towards the front of the car if I remember correctly), and the head on the other. You'll want your breaker bar on the nut, and a wrench on the head to stop the bolt from spinning. As I said, you may have to move things out of the way to get good access.

Your awesome buddy thank you

I use a small ratchet extension to knock the bolt through if it's stuck

Yea it's definitely not going well

You need an air hammer to shock the bolt enough to break the rust bond or cut the bolt off and buy a new lower control arm and bolt.

It's very common for the bolt to seize in the bushing.

if you have any kind of torch, heat up the bolt and then spray some pb blaster or other penetrating lube (not the kind you use on your GF). Let it sit for about 10 min and heat an spray again. Do it a few times. Then put the box end of a wrench on the bolt, put a little tension on the wrench and hit the opposite end of the wrench with a hammer. Its the same basic action as an impact wrench, just alot slower.

dustyboner said:

if you have any kind of torch, heat up the bolt and then spray some pb blaster or other penetrating lube (not the kind you use on your GF). Let it sit for about 10 min and heat an spray again. Do it a few times. Then put the box end of a wrench on the bolt, put a little tension on the wrench and hit the opposite end of the wrench with a hammer. Its the same basic action as an impact wrench, just alot slower.

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Don't do this! The bolt goes through a sleeved rubber bushing. You will destroy the bushing before you ever get enough heat to break the corrosion bond.

Driver side front came undone easy, of course the little rod won't let shock fall down fml

Just pull the shock out of the fork. You will need a chisel to get it spread enough but it will be easier than dealing with the rusted up components.

That's what I tried funny cause I thought I was probably a idiot for trying but with everything connected on the bottom I couldn't get enough space up top to separate the shock from the fork.. my car blows it's a love hate thing

lasthope05 said:

Don't do this! The bolt goes through a sleeved rubber bushing. You will destroy the bushing before you ever get enough heat to break the corrosion bond.

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when i installed my poly bushings i had to torch out some of the old bushings. It takes alot more heat than you would think to soften them up. the factory bushings are injection molded anyways so as long as your not putting fire directly on them, they will harden back to normal when they cool.

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Take a torch and heat it up, if the bushing gets fuct up, i will buy you another LL arm to replace it.