I just recently rebuild my transmission. The problem I am having is the car won’t shift into 2nd and 4th. As of right now 1st, 3rd, and reverse or working. When I shift the car in 2nd and 4th it feels like the car is not changing gears. When I shift into 2nd it feels like it’s still in 1st and when I shift into 4th it feels like the car is still in 3rd. I am currently using the kiggly mod. I have checked the wiring on the solenoids, valve body solenoids and ohm tested them. I have replaced the range sensor. Checked my shift cable to be good. If you have any other ideas or suggestions let me know.

2nd and 4th are BOTH controlled by the same solenoid, so its pointing to it not getting voltage or failing. Just my 02.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

2nd and 4th are BOTH controlled by the same solenoid, so its pointing to it not getting voltage or failing. Just my 02.

Click to expand...

I checked voltage and both solenoids are getting the same voltage.

But are they clicking? They do go bad. I replaced mine in my 4L60e and they were a breeze and reasonable in price.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

But are they clicking? They do go bad. I replaced mine in my 4L60e and they were a breeze and reasonable in price.

Click to expand...

Yes they are both clicking. Is there anything else you think it could be?

O-ring leaking around it? If it is functioning then it's possible that something in the valve body is not put together right. I have had them apart a couple times. You may need to re-check the assembly. I know that's not what you want to hear. Maybe some other auto guys can give their 02.

Or a stuck valve in the valve body. As @1990TSIAWDTALON stated could be a bad o- ring on solenoid also.
Any trouble codes for engine or trans?

Dstarperformance01 said:

Or a stuck valve in the valve body. As @1990TSIAWDTALON stated could be a bad o- ring on solenoid also.
Any trouble codes for engine or trans?

Click to expand...

I have a spare valve body that I swapped out and it is still doing the same thing. I don't have any trouble codes coming from the engine or transmission.

A FSM should have the pages in it that show what is engaged for 2nd and 4th and mine show the fluid path (I think that's what it is showing) too. If you have a service manual, pull it out and look at those to see what the transmission is doing for 2nd and 4th, or should I say Supposed to be doing.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

A FSM should have the pages in it that show what is engaged for 2nd and 4th and mine show the fluid path (I think that's what it is showing) too. If you have a service manual, pull it out and look at those to see what the transmission is doing for 2nd and 4th, or should I say Supposed to be doing.

Click to expand...

I checked what the transmission should be doing for 2nd and 4th valve body wise. As of right now everything looks to be good. I am thinking it might be that the kickdown servo needs to be adjust.

Update,

After checking everything that could be my issue I still have not been able to fix my problem. I was looking over the rebuild manual for the transmission and it seems that I need to adjust my kickdown servo. I am kind of stuck on a step that just doesn't make sense to me maybe someone with experience can help me out. In step 5 after tightening to 86 inch lbs it says to loosen the lock nut at least 2 turns. Does this mean to break it free from the socket or to spin the socket and nut together in the same direction?

1) Ensure area around kickdown servo switch is clean. Remove
snap ring and kickdown servo switch. See Figs. 18 and 19. To prevent
rotation of kickdown servo piston, engage pawl of Kickdown Servo
Wrench (MD998918) in notch on kickdown servo piston. See STEP 1 in
Fig. 10.

2) Remove plug, and install Adapter (MD998915) between
kickdown servo wrench and transaxle case in low-reverse hydraulic
pressure tap port. Tighten adapter by hand only.
CAUTION: DO NOT press kickdown servo piston inward with kickdown
servo wrench. Tighten adapter on transaxle case by hand
only to prevent damage to transaxle case.

3) Loosen lock nut located before "V" groove on adjusting
rod. See STEP 2 in Fig. 10. Install and tighten inner portion of
Socket Wrench (MD998916) until it contacts the lock nut. Engage outer
portion of socket wrench with lock nut.

4) Rotate outer portion of socket wrench counterclockwise and
inner portion of socket wrench clockwise to secure lock nut and inner
portion of socket wrench. See STEP 3 in Fig. 10.

5) Attach INCH-pound torque wrench on inner portion of socket
wrench. See STEP 4 in Fig. 10. Tighten inner portion of socket wrench
to 86 INCH lbs. (10 N.m), and then loosen lock nut at least 2 turns.

6) Tighten inner portion of socket wrench to 43 INCH lbs. (5
N.m). Back off inner portion of socket wrench 2-2 1/4 revolutions.
Engage outer portion of socket wrench with lock nut.

7) Rotate outer portion of socket wrench clockwise and inner
portion of socket wrench counterclockwise to release lock nut and
inner portion of socket wrench. See STEP 5 in Fig. 10.

8) Tighten lock nut by hand until it contacts kickdown servo
piston. Using torque wrench, tighten lock nut. See STEP 6 in Fig. 10.
Also, refer to the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of article.
CAUTION: Tighten lock nut by hand first to prevent lock nut and
adjusting rod from rotating together.

9) Remove kickdown servo wrench and adapter. Install plug in
low-reverse pressure tap and tighten to specification. Refer to the
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table. Install the kickdown servo switch and the
snap ring.

There is a easy way to do that, all you have to do is to find Translab shift kit installation instruction, you will need a 1/8 drill bit to do the adjustment .

jery1234 said:

There is a easy way to do that, all you have to do is to find Translab shift kit installation instruction, you will need a 1/8 drill bit to do the adjustment .

Click to expand...

I have the translab installation instructions but what does it have to do with the adjustment in the kickdown servo?

Update,

I ended up adjusting the kickdown servo but now I lost reverse and 3rd gear. The gears that are currently working are 1st and 4th. The gears that are not working are 2nd, 3rd and reverse. So I adjusted the band and now I lose 3rd but get 4th? Anyone have any ideas what could be going on or anything I should check?

Hi,
I have installed Translab shift kit, but this is my first auto and I cant understand how to check/adjust the band as per Translab instructions. It says to "air check through the band apply hole and measure pin travel" ??? What does "air check" mean? Anyone to explain it for dummies? Thanks

Yes, it means to get a air hose and nozzle and blow compressed air into that hole to check for movememt and travel distance. I am NOT the expert but have built a few Chevy auto transmissions and that is a check for you to do. Hope that explained it.
I have a Translab kit here but did a shiftbox instead.

Ah thanks

benstian said:

Hi,
I have installed Translab shift kit, but this is my first auto and I cant understand how to check/adjust the band as per Translab instructions. It says to "air check through the band apply hole and measure pin travel" ??? What does "air check" mean? Anyone to explain it for dummies? Thanks

Click to expand...

Make sure to use the drill bit per the instructions that will be the easiest way to verify the correct pin travel. This will control your 2nd and 4th gear, If you mess up you will definitely know because the gears will either slip or they will lock up.

Thanks
Do you use a dial gauge to measure pin travel?