The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Shift cable bushings

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Turbo2g

5+ Year Contributor
279
51
Oct 13, 2017
Fallbrook, California
My shifter is sloppy due to very worn out bushings at the transmission end of the cables. I am debating on a couple sets from extreme psi. They have a poly set from torque solutions, and a solid aluminum set of their own design. Would it be noisy or harsh to use metal? Or would the poly set be better for street use/ mild driving with occasional spirit. I can see the benefit of the metal being that it will likely never need changed again. But the poly seems like a better bet for some reason. Like maybe the metal will transfer vibrations through the cables and to the shifter. Opinions?

The aluminum set is a little cheaper, but I don't know if I trust using metal. Anyone try any aftermarket sets and have insight? Just need to know what set to order.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/home.php?cat=571
 
I had the brass ones, only down side is if it binds do to the corrosion you can damage your shifter cables and that wasn't a risk I wanted to continue taking. I switched to the 2 skateboard bearings welded together, I'll admit it was a pain to press those in but the shift feel is great and don't have to worry about binding
 
A dry lubricant works well for the shift cable brass bushings. I personally never had luck installing the skateboard bearings. They always broke on me. You may want to also consider bushing for the shifter base as well. Pair that with a B&M short-shifter, and you have some nice shifting.
 
I had the brass ones, only down side is if it binds do to the corrosion you can damage your shifter cables and that wasn't a risk I wanted to continue taking.

The corrosion on the mounting post is easy enough to clean off. I used 1000 grit sandpaper until the bushing could be slid on and off easily. The tolerances are extremely tight on the brass bushings, so it's easy to tell if they're going to bind. I forced mine on initially (like an idiot) which made my 4 to 5 shift a pain in the ass. Once I cleaned up the posts it was perfect.

+1 on the B&M Short Shifter as well. They can be hard to find (knock off's are everywhere though). I scored one from the forums here, made the overall driving experience even more enjoyable than it already was.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I think I'll do the brass. I'll be sure to clean up the rust since I do see some and lubricate it. I have had my eyes on the base plate bushings too, but plan to do that along with a short throw. For now, this is a good start because it is where the majority of my slop is.
 
A dry lubricant works well for the shift cable brass bushings. I personally never had luck installing the skateboard bearings. They always broke on me. You may want to also consider bushing for the shifter base as well. Pair that with a B&M short-shifter, and you have some nice shifting.
Any suggestions on what lubricants exactly? For example, is dielectric grease okay? I only ask because I have that already.

Also, do you just put it around the bushings before install?
 
Any suggestions on what lubricants exactly? For example, is dielectric grease okay? I only ask because I have that already.

Also, do you just put it around the bushings before install?

I, personally, did not use any lubricants. Just make sure the posts on the transmission are cleaned off as best as possible and install from there.
 
I, personally, did not use any lubricants. Just make sure the posts on the transmission are cleaned off as best as possible and install from there.
I know this sounds extremely noon, but when you say posts, what are you referring to? Maybe a pic would help. I thought maybe it's the inside area of what the bushings insert into but idk
 
I know this sounds extremely noon, but when you say posts, what are you referring to? Maybe a pic would help. I thought maybe it's the inside area of what the bushings insert into but idk

The post I'm referring to is where the cotter pin goes through. Clean them off as best as you can before attempting to install the bushings.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Any suggestions on what lubricants exactly? For example, is dielectric grease okay? I only ask because I have that already.

Also, do you just put it around the bushings before install?

Really any type of dry lubricant should be fine (graphite, silicone, etc.). The benefit is that it does not attract dirt/moisture since they are not sealed from the elements. This is just what I use for these bushings.

The last time I did an install, I used a light coating of lithium grease on the outside of the bushing for install. The center portion (that pivots), I use a dry lubricant. I inspect/relubricate the bushings every oil change. This may be a little excessive, but I play in dirt/mud regularly.
 
Great info from those that have done this. Thanks guys. I ordered the brass set and the base-plate set that I wont me messing with until I decide on a short throw shifter. I'm confident on the install and can't wait to get a good shift out of this thing. It's been $hit since I picked it up.
 
Just to update, I got the shift bushings installed and did a short throw shifter. They were both easy jobs. Shifter is very nice now with no slop. And having an even shorter throw is amazing! Makes all the difference between being annoyed and enjoying driving a vehicle.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top