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1G Starting my manual to auto swap.....

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So some of you may know Im converting my 1g from manual to auto. I recently picked up an entire swap, which included a 4 bolt lsd rear, transmission, mounts, shifter assembly and cable, 2 flex plates, axles and 1/2 shaft mount, oem converter and tcu. My biggest concern revolves around the tcu, I recently purchased the forced four 100.1 with handheld gauge. Because im using this doesnt this technically take the place of the tcu. Lets say I wanted to use the tcu, were does this even plug in? Is their an entire harness that I would have to find to allow me to use it?
 
If you want to use a tcu you need an auto engine/trans harness. The shift box will also need custom wired to the trans without one (easier than it sounds).
 
The swap has begun
 

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toss the tcu if its an eprom up for sale and just run the forced four box. the tcu will cause you nothing but issues from what ive read. im running a forced four box only on my street car and it drives like a dream.
 
It's mounted between the ecu and firewall in the cabin, and shares the engine harness with the ecu.
I decided with the forced four shift box. The motor is back in. Keeping it moving
 

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I have factory shift maps if using a 100.1
Auto shift feature is cool. Time it right and work up to the shift point you want. If I had the shift maps on my phone I would post them. I do think I posted them at one time, maybe in a review Thx @Dstarperformance01. :thumb:
 
Lil update guys.... the engine bay cleanup is complete. The auto swap continues, I cleaned up the lsd auto rear diff and sprayed the case. I got the flex plate mounted.I couldnt get the crankdowel out so I had grind it flush. Just waiting for the torque conv and tranny.
 

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So im making some progress boys. I had to change the rear and front mounts as i forgot. I ran the shift cable through the manual tunnel and mounted the shifter. The rewire is almost complete. I just need to mount the j1h rear diff and rewire the car for the battert in the rear .
 

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Not sure if you are past this point yet but when I did mine last year there was a couple bolts different lengths that I needed. I believe it was one starter bolt was different and 2-3 transfer case bolts. I can did up exact sizes if you need them, every auto swap article I read never mentioned about those bolts being different.
 
Not sure if you are past this point yet but when I did mine last year there was a couple bolts different lengths that I needed. I believe it was one starter bolt was different and 2-3 transfer case bolts. I can did up exact sizes if you need them, every auto swap article I read never mentioned about those bolts being different.
Any info would be appreciated
 
This is what I had wrote down when I did swap...

One longer bolt for starter because trans housing thicker where starter connects and tcase is alil different. You need two more of the shorter bolts. So it’s 4 short and two long bolts for Auto tcase.

Good luck on it.
 
Auto diff is in...
 

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Nice axle stock. I'm rocking a 3 bolt auto when it pops I'll rebuild my manual 4 bolt with the ring and pinion from the 3. I doubt that it will be any time soon.
 
So im making some progress boys. I had to change the rear and front mounts as i forgot. I ran the shift cable through the manual tunnel and mounted the shifter. The rewire is almost complete. I just need to mount the j1h rear diff and rewire the car for the battert in the rear .

Just an FYI here, coming from a factory 94 AT AWD car...

a) The factory AT shifter cable runs through a small grommet in the drivetrain tunnel. It might not reach and/or connect at the right angle if you used the MT cable pass-through provision in the firewall.

b) The factory AT AWD fore & aft motor mount brackets can accept the AWD MT motor mounts. It's a tight fit, but they do work with the Prothane full insert MT mounts.

c) I made a few extra modifications to the Kiggly NSS / Diode Shift Mod (found here), that retains the factory starter interrupt and the reverse light functionality. As an extra precaution, I also bound 4th gear (formerly OD) to third gear's NSS output, to correct any accidental miss shifts. If you want a full stand-alone, manually shifted AT, then this is your mod. It cost me around $8 in diodes & one extra Mitsu 4 pin relay to wire up. No shift points to consider... whatever gear is selected is what gear you'll be in. Nice & simple. -I thought that I'd throw that in, in the event that you were still on the fence over running the TCU vs the Shift box... this was the best of both worlds, in my case.

Hope this helps:thumb:
 
Just an FYI here, coming from a factory 94 AT AWD car...

a) The factory AT shifter cable runs through a small grommet in the drivetrain tunnel. It might not reach and/or connect at the right angle if you used the MT cable pass-through provision in the firewall.

b) The factory AT AWD fore & aft motor mount brackets can accept the AWD MT motor mounts. It's a tight fit, but they do work with the Prothane full insert MT mounts.

c) I made a few extra modifications to the Kiggly NSS / Diode Shift Mod (found here), that retains the factory starter interrupt and the reverse light functionality. As an extra precaution, I also bound 4th gear (formerly OD) to third gear's NSS output, to correct any accidental miss shifts. If you want a full stand-alone, manually shifted AT, then this is your mod. It cost me around $8 in diodes & one extra Mitsu 4 pin relay to wire up. No shift points to consider... whatever gear is selected is what gear you'll be in. Nice & simple. -I thought that I'd throw that in, in the event that you were still on the fence over running the TCU vs the Shift box... this was the best of both worlds, in my case.

Hope this helps:thumb:
My buddy ran his cable this way and had no difficulty? Can u show me the location the shifter mount location on the firewall
 
Yeah I first ran mine through the manual shift hole and I didn't like it. I pulled the dash and made a template, cut the hole in the floor and used riv nuts through the floor to attach the cable like it would of been factory. It was a lot of extra screwing around but I'm happy with it. I'm anal with small details like that. I'll have to update my build thread.
 
Stay as much detailed as you can please. My AT is getting built as we speak and I have a MT dsm that i will also convert into a AT. When i bought the drivetrain of the AT the wiring on the trans is all jacked up (cut up, spliced, etc) hope it doesnt become a problem. Im also well concerned about the motor mounts/Transmission mounts. No one makes any or dont even mention it but many say that they fit and many say that they dont and if they make them fit the degrees of everything that has to be angled is off by so much and in reality that could be a problem for the drivetrain with time. Thanks for the thread!
 
Motor mounts are simple. U need the rear, front and passenger side mount from the auto. U can use the manual mount mount for the driver side and front and rear. You need the auto mounts that bolts to the block. The mounts that bolt to the crossmember dont matter. I purchased the transmission mount from rock auto.
 
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