TuJay said:

It’s 5 speed, where do I put the feeler gauge? I have read about it but still vague. I’m using ECMLink because i can’t get a scanner that good , and I want to clear me CEL. And where would I put my multi meter prongs?

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You feel back behind the throttle body. When you move the throttle body and then release it, it stops against a screw on the bottom of the back side.

PlanZero said:

I love the plush my 96 is mint I wouldn't ever trade it for pleather even the door panels are quieter. Never slide around, no power bs.

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Yeah, from what I can tell every year they changed the premium cloth interiors. And even then the GS models almost got a nicer quality interior than a similar equipped gst.

TuJay said:

It’s 5 speed, where do I put the feeler gauge? I have read about it but still vague. I’m using ECMLink because i can’t get a scanner that good , and I want to clear me CEL. And where would I put my multi meter prongs?

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Sorry skipped your question

The top 2 plugs on the sensor are pins 4 and 3. You would set your volt meter to the -<)) setting for continuity (when you touch red and black together the volt meter will beep.

You should also be able to see tps% on ecm link

chrysler kid said:

Sorry skipped your question

The top 2 plugs on the sensor are pins 4 and 3. You would set your volt meter to the -<)) setting for continuity (when you touch red and black together the volt meter will beep.

You should also be able to see tps% on ecm link

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I tried to use ECM link, I had the cable plugged in and it said something about an open port or something and didn’t work

TuJay said:

I tried to use ECM link, I had the cable plugged in and it said something about an open port or something and didn’t work

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Like the whole system for dsmlink, or just the throttle position sensor?

If its just the tps, it is possible the connector is loose or damaged. Make sure its on there snug, mine is missing the metal clip to hold it on the tps and when it gets a bad connection it nearly downshifts me out the windshield into first gear (car is automatic)

chrysler kid said:

Like the whole system for dsmlink, or just the throttle position sensor?

If its just the tps, it is possible the connector is loose or damaged. Make sure its on there snug, mine is missing the metal clip to hold it on the tps and when it gets a bad connection it nearly downshifts me out the windshield into first gear (car is automatic)

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The entire program. Hooked it up and hit connect and it never worked

TuJay said:

like my old post said to to after determining my ISC was bad to replace it and that would fix my misfire. I replaced it today and the new ISC helped A LOT it doesn’t misfire nearly as much and it’s somewhat driveable but it still does like to misfire here and there but like I said not as much as it used to though. It does idle better but still low. I don’t suspect my BISS being out of adjustment because when it’s at operating temperature it’ll idle almost exactly where it should give or take a couple hundred RPM’s so it might be a little out. After taking all that into consideration I suspect my MAP, coolant temp sensor, and a possible boost leak but I’m not sure. Here’s another video with the new ISC.

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I would do a boost leak first thing, paying close attention to the throttle body shaft seals, BISS screw, and gaskets, as it reminds me of how my car ran when I had a huge post-throttle body leak at the MAP sensor. A CTS is plausible. If you have DSM link you can log it, or you can take it off the car and test it with a multimeter and a mug of water.

If that's fine, it sounds like you might be missing a cylinder or two. Have you checked that you're getting strong spark on all four, and that your spark plugs are not platinum, and gaped correctly?

MAP sensor is only used to check EGR function so you can rule that out.

Edit: Also could you please give us the code(s) for your CEL.

shinzon said:

I would do a boost leak first thing, paying close attention to the throttle body shaft seals, BISS screw, and gaskets, as it reminds me of how my car ran when I had a huge post-throttle body leak at the MAP sensor. A CTS is plausible. If you have DSM link you can log it, or you can take it off the car and test it with a multimeter and a mug of water.

If that's fine, it sounds like you might be missing a cylinder or two. Have you checked that you're getting strong spark on all four, and that your spark plugs are not platinum, and gaped correctly?

MAP sensor is only used to check EGR function so you can rule that out.

Edit: Also could you please give us the code(s) for your CEL.

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P0443
I assume the plugs are fine because it’ll run fine and every once in a while it’ll misfire before getting into boost and when it’s in boost from what I can tell it won’t misfire

Thanks for the code. Keep an eye on that as it may pop more up as the ECU decides parts are faulty.

I know you say the plugs are fine, but, as the old mechanics say, a motor needs air, fuel, and spark (at the correct times, and in the correct amounts) to run well, and spark is the easiest to double-check on a DSM. If it's not spark, then we're into some sort of air metering (intake leaks, maf getting flaky), or fuel issue (incorrect fuel pressure, dirty injectors, or some sensor failure that isn't throwing a code yet). Best to confirm the easy stuff, before you get to the hard stuff you know?

I like to throw an in-line spark tester and run the engine for a quick diagnoses. Real easy to confirm spark that way, and the tool is dirt cheap. Since it runs rough off boost/at idle, the plug gaps are probably fine (unless they're fouled) and the problem lies elsewhere, but the coils, ignition transistor, CAS/CPS, and ECU are on that circuit too so confirming you have good spark rules out many potential points of failure.

One of the symptoms of a failed ecu is failure of the ecu idle air control driver on the mother board. Since we are all dsm part whores by now I assume you have access to a spare ecu to try?

chrysler kid said:

One of the symptoms of a failed ecu is failure of the ecu idle air control driver on the mother board. Since we are all dsm part whores by now I assume you have access to a spare ecu to try?

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I already tried the extra one that came with it, crank no start. And I don’t really have the money to buy another one and hope it works.

chrysler kid said:

One of the symptoms of a failed ecu is failure of the ecu idle air control driver on the mother board. Since we are all dsm part whores by now I assume you have access to a spare ecu to try?

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I was reading through this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ra...an-sputtering-help-plz.514656/#post-153668238

shinzon said:

Thanks for the code. Keep an eye on that as it may pop more up as the ECU decides parts are faulty.

I know you say the plugs are fine, but, as the old mechanics say, a motor needs air, fuel, and spark (at the correct times, and in the correct amounts) to run well, and spark is the easiest to double-check on a DSM. If it's not spark, then we're into some sort of air metering (intake leaks, maf getting flaky), or fuel issue (incorrect fuel pressure, dirty injectors, or some sensor failure that isn't throwing a code yet). Best to confirm the easy stuff, before you get to the hard stuff you know?

I like to throw an in-line spark tester and run the engine for a quick diagnoses. Real easy to confirm spark that way, and the tool is dirt cheap. Since it runs rough off boost/at idle, the plug gaps are probably fine (unless they're fouled) and the problem lies elsewhere, but the coils, ignition transistor, CAS/CPS, and ECU are on that circuit too so confirming you have good spark rules out many potential points of failure.

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before I go any further, I know it runs decently rich, I think the previous owner messed up when he was putting the walbro 255, braided lines, and areomotive FPR in. I’m not sure if he changed the injectors or not. Could this all be happening because of fouled plugs? And are they 5/8 or 13/16? Mine has 13/16 in it now and that didn’t seem quite right. So if it’s a possibility I’ll do plugs and wires and see how that effects it.

TuJay said:

before I go any further, I know it runs decently rich, I think the previous owner messed up when he was putting the walbro 255, braided lines, and areomotive FPR in. I’m not sure if he changed the injectors or not. Could this all be happening because of fouled plugs? And are they 5/8 or 13/16? Mine has 13/16 in it now and that didn’t seem quite right. So if it’s a possibility I’ll do plugs and wires and see how that effects it.

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With a Walbro 255 you'll definitely be running rich without some sort of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Since you have an AFPR, you're likely okay as long as the previous owner set base fuel pressure correctly. With DSMLink, and an AFPR, the car shouldn't be running rich unless (off the top of my head) it is either tuned incorrectly, the wideband 02 sensor is calibrated incorrectly, or you have some sort of post-turbo intake leak.

A fouled plug won't spark, or will spark weakly, so it could be causing your problems yes. The 4G63T is picky about which plugs are used. NGK was OEM for our cars, so most people run either the NGK BPR6ES if they are running stock boost, or BPR7ES if they have a highly modified vehicle (30+lbs of boost iirc). Plug gaps are also very important on this engine: .28-.32; most run either .30 or .28. The plugs are 13/16 (21mm I think) wrench size, yes, and should be torqued to 18-21ftlbs when you put them back in--be careful, it's easy to strip threads on our aluminum head. For plug wires, it's also important to run wires with low resistance; many run NGK ME-77.

All that said, my gut feeling is that, if you're missing a couple of cylinders, your plugs and wires are fine and the issue is somewhere further upstream in the spark system (coils, ignition transistor, or the signal from the ECU/Cam Sensor to fire). Still, I'd check the plugs for fouling/check their gap, and ensure you have spark on all four before you throw money at the problem. If you have no spark, knowing whether it's missing on cylinder 1&4 or 2&3 will narrow down what you need to look at to track down the source of the problem.

Since it's hard to diagnose via video, if it turns out you have spark and fuel on all four and you're not missing cylinders, I'd guess a big intake leak.

edit: I noticed up thread you're having issues getting DSMLink to connect. I'd focus my efforts there first, too. Having access to DSMLink's logger will take much of the guess work out of diagnosing issues.

shinzon said:

With a Walbro 255 you'll definitely be running rich without some sort of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Since you have an AFPR, you're likely okay as long as the previous owner set base fuel pressure correctly. With DSMLink, and an AFPR, the car shouldn't be running rich unless (off the top of my head) it is either tuned incorrectly, the wideband 02 sensor is calibrated incorrectly, or you have some sort of post-turbo intake leak.

A fouled plug won't spark, or will spark weakly, so it could be causing your problems yes. The 4G63T is picky about which plugs are used. NGK was OEM for our cars, so most people run either the NGK BPR6ES if they are running stock boost, or BPR7ES if they have a highly modified vehicle (30+lbs of boost iirc). Plug gaps are also very important on this engine: .28-.32; most run either .30 or .28. The plugs are 13/16 (21mm I think) wrench size, yes. For plug wires, it's also important to run wires with low resistance; many run NGK ME-77.

All that said, my gut feeling is that, if you're missing a couple of cylinders, your plugs are wires are fine and the issue is somewhere further upstream in the spark system (coils, ignition transistor, or the signal from the ECU/Cam Sensor to fire). Still, I'd check the plugs for fouling/check their gap, and ensure you have spark on all four before you throw money at the problem. If you have no spark, knowing whether it's missing on 1&4 or 2&3 will narrow down what you need to look at to track down the source of the problem.

Since it's hard to diagnose via video, if it turns out you have spark and fuel on all four and you're not missing cylinders, I'd guess a boost leak.

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I need new plugs anyway, I bought BRP7ES, I’m stock boost. Will they work still?