gsxitement said:

I'd like to try them. But I also have that whole "the old setup worked fine, why change what worked?" which is an accurate portrayal of my dilemma at the moment. Lol

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DID work DID being the main part here haha, maybe your bearings need to be better so what did work for some time now wont work because racing is more stressful on all parts! upgrade them like you upgrade brakes and tires to take more pounding and the levels it will see

ec17pse said:

DID work DID being the main part here haha, maybe your bearings need to be better so what did work for some time now wont work because racing is more stressful on all parts! upgrade them like you upgrade brakes and tires to take more pounding and the levels it will see

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Facts!! King Bearings FTW!!

Interesting development. Oil pump devastation.

Thoughts on cause?

Black95TSIawd said:

Thoughts on cause?

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One thing that's crossing my mind is that, looking at the wear marks on the case, I'm wondering if the timing belt was too tight, putting a load on the bearings beyond what it could handle. If you look at how is killed the case, it's worn in the direction the timing belt would've pulled the gear. Just an idea at this point. All the oil passages leading to the top gear were clean and stub shaft is in good shape. So I don't think it was an oil supply problem. Just playing with ideas right now.

Nice catch, either way.

Ah... Another Helical Oil pump gear and Stubby shaft failure. From my understanding you're supposed to use straight cut oil pump gears with a stubby shaft when you do the balance shaft delete. Had that same failure happen on my spare motor when i opened it up. Here is some similar results to yours.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-oil-pump-staight-cut-or-helical-gears.464223/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tw...umps-has-anyone-ever-seen-this-before.433815/

danielsl1999gsx said:

Ah... Another Helical Oil pump gear and Stubby shaft failure. From my understanding you're supposed to use straight cut oil pump gears with a stubby shaft when you do the balance shaft delete. Had that shame failure happen on my spare motor when i opened it up. Here is some similar results to yours.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-oil-pump-staight-cut-or-helical-gears.464223/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tw...umps-has-anyone-ever-seen-this-before.433815/

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Wow. Great info. I'll make sure I run the straight cuts in this rebuild. Incredible how long I've had this motor together with that stub shaft and helical gears and this is the first real oil pump failure I've had. Can't believe this motor didn't blow up on track. Lucky.

Black95TSIawd said:

Nice catch, either way.

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It's wild. Can't believe this didn't blow up on track. A couple said they were seeing oil puffs when I let off throttle, turns out the valve seals had begun to leak. Not for nothing, and this is gonna sound crazy, but this is one of my favorite things about racing. Learning things and working on things to make them better. I love it.

Got the diff out today. Gonna start doing the EvoIII LSD conversion in the coming weeks.

Also.....anyone have any experience with this?

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26777&cat=1890&page=1

Thinking this might be the best way to make sure the oil pump lives well since the straight cut gears won't work in the front cover extremepsi offers.

Brought some stuff to work to work on. New oil filter housing with the OFH mod, softer BSE regulator spring, cleaned up the oil filter really well. Knocked out the old extended wheel studs and pressed in the new ARP ones. Started going over the crank to make sure it's all good to go as well.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Hope everyone has a great day with family and friends! A little update. Parts started coming in. Head gasket, timing belt. My buddy sent me a nice front cover with straight cut gears. Also, the manifold came back from Archer. Milled the flanges, tapped the bolt holes to 10×1.25, added a bung for the EGT probe and recoated the manifold.

So. A few updates. Friday at work is typically pretty dead, so I brought some things in to work on. Brought the rear, the front pump and the rear axles. Started out taking the rear apart. Measured the backlash prior to pulling it apart. Had .007". Took it apart, and reassembled it with the shims that came out of the viscous setup. No good. Backlash went to .004" and the gear pattern was all the way at the top of the gear. Didn't have any shims, so I disassembled it and have it sitting on my bench at work. I'll finish that up this week. Installed the Evo 3 cups. No real hangups on that. Undid the clamps, pulled the old cups out. Threw some grease in there, put the new cups on. Tightened the clamps up. Then took the oil pump apart. Measured all the clearances. Everything is in spec with that as well. So a productive day. Then yesterday (Saturday) I made a big purchase. Found a guy on Craigslist selling a nice Aluminum trailer for super cheap. Hit him up. Went and purchased it. Needs a little work on a couple things, but for the price, I had to do it. So we keep on getting tasks done. April will be here soon.

What's everyone's opinion on breaking in a race only motor? Start up. Hold at 2500 rpm for a while. But I can't drive it on the street, so it's either gonna be break in on the dyno, or the first two sessions at Lime Rock will be break in. We'll see.

That's a pretty nice trailer. Nice progress so far. I'm looking for a tow vehicle and trailer shortly thereafter.


Whats that big, neon green, sway bar I see in one of your pictures?

Black95TSIawd said:

That's a pretty nice trailer. Nice progress so far. I'm looking for a tow vehicle and trailer shortly thereafter.


Whats that big, neon green, sway bar I see in one of your pictures?

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That was for my 240 I just sold. Sikky swap kit.

Question. What did you do to shim your LSD? I had .004" backlash. Swapped the shims to opposite sides and got to .005"- .006", but I'd like to get back to the .007"

My stock diff measured .08 before I pulled it out. Using the evo's shims got me to .11. Too much. Mix mached and got it to .08 again. Contact patch was good/acceptable so I ran with it. The only time the diff makes noise is lift throttle deccel. Tim Zimmer should be able to get you shims although .06 should be good I think. If contact patch is not ideal, you'll have to reshim the pinion gear. I can't do that so a trans shop might be in order.

Black95TSIawd said:

My stock diff measured .08 before I pulled it out. Using the evo's shims got me to .11. Too much. Mix mached and got it to .08 again. Contact patch was good/acceptable so I ran with it. The only time the diff makes noise is lift throttle deccel. Tim Zimmer should be able to get you shims although .06 should be good I think. If contact patch is not ideal, you'll have to reshim the pinion gear. I can't do that so a trans shop might be in order.

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You mean .008 right? Lol. .08-.11 is huge . Did some research and my numbers are acceptable. So we'll run it. I've seen people say that even .002-.004 is good which is too tight in my opinion for a road race car with all the heat that's gonna be built up. It's back together now with backlash at .006". I think it'll be fine.

Diff is back together. Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to dump it in the car.

gsxitement said:

You mean .008 right? Lol. .08-.11 is huge . Did some research and my numbers are acceptable. So we'll run it. I've seen people say that even .002-.004 is good which is too tight in my opinion for a road race car with all the heat that's gonna be built up. It's back together now with backlash at .006". I think it'll be fine.

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Yes, .008, sorry!

Careful the first time you hit the throttle. Power sliding is cool... when its intentional.

Black95TSIawd said:

Yes, .008, sorry!

Careful the first time you hit the throttle. Power sliding is cool... when its intentional.

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Oh my God I'm so excited. Having a proper operating LSD is gonna be glorious.

Put some work in today. Got the rear diff in along with the axles and the majority of the rear suspension. Also started setting up the manual brake setup. The chase bays master is very nice. Essentially just a Wilwood master with their adapter plate. It was fairly straightforward. Only real complaint is that they use bolts instead of studs, so that was frustrating. But, got it pretty good. Start working on the lines soon.

Man look at how much room that CB delete created. Please post your feedback on that setup, I would like to know how it feels on the street.

Thanks,

The EMRA photog snapped a couple of the car. Pretty cool!

So, with the holidays here, I haven't been able to do too much. But, that doesn't mean things aren't progressing. My new King Bearings came in today. Just the mains for now. Rod bearings will be here in a few weeks. Excited to try King Bearings out. Heard good things about them.