Trying to figure out my power locks problem and came across this

TypeONegative · Dec 10, 2017

hing.
SGTMcIlwain
08-18-2010, 09:29 AM
Here is an easy check for grounded out connection without pulling the door panel:

1)Manually place both door locks to "lock" position
2)Pull Door Lock Fuse and put it back in

If it "unlocked" the doors when you put the fuse in then it's grounded.

If nothing happened then:

3)Manually place both locks to unlock
4)Pull the fuse and put it back in

If they didn't lock, then you are good! It is something else...

Just a tip!
I found this on dsm talk, when I put my doors to lock and put the fuse back in it unlocks, what does this mean? Also one of the door cylinder switch harnesses is broke off on the passengers side, I tried turning the center part with needle nose pliers and I here clicking still no locks, gonna order a replacement but don' think that' the reason they don' work, but I'll need it once I figure them out

Anyone have any idea? When I had the car running I manually locked each door and pulled the lock fuse, when I put it back in they both unlocked

silvreclips · Dec 11, 2017

I had lock issues at some point in time. After changing a door handle the doors wouldn't stay locked. The switch that goes on the back of the key cylinders is also broken on mine, I had accidentally turned it to the unlock position. So the car was always wanting to unlock the doors. I turned it back to the middle position and it stopped doing it. I never fixed the plug, just left it off.

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

silvreclips said:
I had lock issues at some point in time. After changing a door handle the doors wouldn't stay locked. The switch that goes on the back of the key cylinders is also broken on mine, I had accidentally turned it to the unlock position. So the car was always wanting to unlock the doors. I turned it back to the middle position and it stopped doing it. I never fixed the plug, just left it off.

With MN nine when I turn it the locks make noise but don' do anything

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

I have all the solenoids behind the seat on a spyder from the junkyard, which one is the lock solenoid behind the seat so I can swap it out?

DogWhistle · Dec 11, 2017

The module inside the left, rear quarter panel is the remote lock receiver.

The door lock modules are built into the inside door latch assemblies and have to be replaced as a complete unit. There is a door lock relay underneath the driver's side control panel.

The module behind the rear seat in a Spyder to control the power top operation.

chrysler kid · Dec 11, 2017

TypeONegative said:
With MN nine when I turn it the locks make noise but don' do anything

Well that's your problem. Its literally a metal lever that hooks to the door lock to open it. If the handle isnt connected there is no resistance to the motor and it is not able to move anything. So once it unlocks there is no way for it to gain mechanical leverage to lock

So you need to pull the door panel

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

DogWhistle said:
The module inside the left, rear quarter panel is the remote lock receiver.

The door lock modules are built into the inside door latch assemblies and have to be replaced as a complete unit. There is a door lock relay underneath the driver's side control panel.

The module behind the rear seat in a Spyder to control the power top operation.

Thanks you, I did not know that maybe the motors just went bad or something, maybe I'll leave it be after all most times I leave the top down when I park and lock my trunk and glove box, but I did order the wire thing that goes on the lock cylinder for the side it' broke on, so if I figure it out I'll have proper working locks, where should I check next?

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

chrysler kid said:
Well that's your problem. Its literally a metal lever that hooks to the door lock to open it. If the handle isnt connected there is no resistance to the motor and it is not able to move anything. So once it unlocks there is no way for it to gain mechanical leverage to lock

So you need to pull the door panel

Only the right side has the lock cylinder sensor broke off, sorry I kinda didn' make that to clear, I appreciate your help so much, everything is conncted accept for the one sensor, until I get my new one, I here a click under the dash nothing moves, if I pull the fuse and put it back in with the doors locked the pop unlocked, I've have 12 different eclipses frome July 2008 till now, not one of them had this problem and they were all really beat when I got them, but this is my first spyder if that might have something to do with it, is there any reasons a spyder locks wouldn' work that would separate it from its coup counterparts? I did notice this car has manual mirrors

DogWhistle · Dec 11, 2017

This is starting to sound like what happened on our Spyder a couple years ago.

When the lock cylinder breaks off/pops out, whatever position the lock switch (attached to the lock cylinder) was in, it will stay in that position. Because it no longer moves in sync with the other door lock switch, the system defaults to "won't lock", since two different door switch sensors are giving the car two opposite signals.

Your solution could be a s simple as reattaching the door lock cylinder, or, if the handle casting is bad, the door handle and cylinder. Give that a try before you buy door lock actuators or relays.

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

DogWhistle said:
This is starting to sound like what happened on our Spyder a couple years ago.

When the lock cylinder breaks off/pops out, whatever position the lock switch (attached to the lock cylinder) was in, it will stay in that position. Because it no longer moves in sync with the other door lock switch, the system defaults to "won't lock", since two different door switch sensors are giving the car two opposite signals.

Your solution could be a s simple as reattaching the door lock cylinder, or, if the handle casting is bad, the door handle and cylinder. Give that a try before you buy door lock actuators or relays.

Thanks you! Gonna give this a try, the only thing that bugs me is I swear I had one brok off before and on that car when I'd lock the doors the door with the busted sensor would keep swinging back to unlocked, but they still moved, I could be wrong this was like 2013 so I can' remember

TypeONegative · Dec 11, 2017

Once the part comes this week I'll know

chrysler kid · Dec 13, 2017

I dont think you need any parts its just the key cylinder retainer clip, or the door handle itself.

Nearly all of my eclipses had this problem from some one trying to break into the car. Most of the time it was just on the passengers side, so the drivers would still unlock with the key

TypeONegative · Dec 13, 2017

I think the new clip will be here today

TypeONegative · Dec 14, 2017

If I can hear the solenoid behind the radio but locks aren' working does that lead me to the one in the rear quarter? I did not get the lock cylinder switch yet, but I don' think it' going to fix it, but I need it anyways, trying to get it ready for spring, all eclipses and other vehicles off the road till winters over, I gotta figure out how to change the timing belt on a 4g64 and 4g63 because that's' the next step, then the cars will be done, this freaking lock thing is driving me crazy! Out of the 12 cars/trucks we got not one has a dented, scratch or anything that doesn' work! So this is annoying LOL

! Could I try pulling the solenoid out of my nt gs and try it in the silver car in question the spyder? Or is the 420a non convertible different? I' say the gst, but the gst is wrapped up right now at the families house as a gift, lmk if swapping the two would work, I just got some stuff today I ordered from stevie miller, I think if that' the problem he may have it?

chrysler kid · Dec 14, 2017

Sitting in the car and clicking the lock button isnt going to fix it.

Did you roll up the windows and take off the door panel? Its a 5 minute job and Youve spend triple that clicking the door button and the search button LOL

TypeONegative · Dec 14, 2017

I just reread something DogWhistle said, ok looks like the quarter panel solenoid is not it I'll look for the relay on the fuse blocks, thanks for the help!

TypeONegative · Dec 14, 2017

Well I just pulled it and this makes one of the locks move the other makes noise but here' what' broke, ordered one last week should be here tomorrow, yelled were right this will make the locks not work!

silvreclips · Dec 15, 2017

That doesn't have to be connected to the lock cylinder for the locks to work. As long as the switch is in the middle the lock button should work

TypeONegative · Dec 15, 2017

silvreclips said:
That doesn't have to be connected to the lock cylinder for the locks to work. As long as the switch is in the middle the lock button should work

It seems to be broken to where there's no middle, it's always in lock or unlock, and I have to press it inward to get it to flick the locks

chrysler kid · Dec 15, 2017

If its the tab on the back of the lock cylinder, It needs to be centered on the lock cylinder so the actuator knows off and on position. Hooked up to it as well, I believe it is a ground

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-power-door-lock-issue-aftermarket-door-locks.433278/

TypeONegative · Dec 16, 2017

DogWhistle said:
This is starting to sound like what happened on our Spyder a couple years ago.

When the lock cylinder breaks off/pops out, whatever position the lock switch (attached to the lock cylinder) was in, it will stay in that position. Because it no longer moves in sync with the other door lock switch, the system defaults to "won't lock", since two different door switch sensors are giving the car two opposite signals.

Your solution could be a s simple as reattaching the door lock cylinder, or, if the handle casting is bad, the door handle and cylinder. Give that a try before you buy door lock actuators or relays.

This was correct! Locks are now working with the new lock cylinder switch, thank you so much

DogWhistle · Dec 18, 2017

Nice. Glad it was an inexpensive fix.

It’s amazing how little items add up to large aggravations.

TypeONegative · Dec 19, 2017

DogWhistle said:
Nice. Glad it was an inexpensive fix.

It’s amazing how little items add up to large aggravations.

Your right there, id rather have to tear an engine apart then figure out electrical gremlins, i cant believe it works finally, I also pulled my lock cylinder apart for the trunk lock on the floor and cleaned it with pb blaster, now I can leave the top down and now worry about trying to jam stuff in the glove box to lock it, i prefer living the top down when I take it for the obvious reasons of wear on the mechanisms, but also to avoid getting the top slashed, it' ready for spring just gotta change that timing belt

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