The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

1G Purchasing & Pulling out rear diff someones garage

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
I purchased the car w welded rear diff and I hate it. Found a rear diff 2.5 hours away so I'm driving to the "pull a part" LOL. These are items I will bring. Please add anything else you can think of.

Floor jacks
jack stands
creeper
breaker bar
pry bar
Sockets & wrenches obviously
penetrating oil
Should I bring a compressor to make my life easier?

Besides the driveshaft and axles, it's only held on by the two bolts on the rear of the diff and the bracket by the driveshaft. Is this correct?


Thanks
 
Last edited:
Depending on what kind of yard this is, if they will let you take a saws-all in and cut the floor of the spare tire well out, you may have better access to use tools such as a breaker bar.
 
Can you remove the one from your car so you know what tools you need to do it? That would be easiest. Ask one of your bros to give you a ride to the new diff.

I would've done that but it was last minute. Plus I plan on replacing all the bushing sometime next year. Here is a revised list if anyone else needs it.

Floor jacks
jack stands
creeper
breaker bar
pry bar
cheater bar (breaker bar was too short for top and rear 17mm bolts)
Sockets & wrenches obviously 17mm 14mm 12mm. Ratcheting wrench made life a lot easier
Not sure what size the drain plug is
penetrating oil
Light (guy had no light in his garage)
eye protection
drain pan


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Depending on what kind of yard this is, if they will let you take a saws-all in and cut the floor of the spare tire well out, you may have better access to use tools such as a breaker bar.

It was someone's garage so lucked out as it was concrete. As long as its high enough, there is enough clearance to get a 1/2 17mm with a long cheater bar from the drivers side. Passengers side is tougher bc of the exhaust.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For future reference.

As you noted there are six bolts (2 top, 2 rear, 2 side) + the four on the driveshaft flange, the hardest to get at are the top two when the rear suspension is still on the car. (note: this drawing is a 90-91 with three bolt axles. The 92-94 four bolt axles don't change the diff bolts any.)

I seem to remember the drain plug being 24mm or so.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
The one I took off still had its suspension. Top bolts really weren't bad at all. I used 1/2 inch 17mm and a cheater bar from the drivers side to crack them loose. Hardest part was sliding the diff off the lip of the sub frame and getting past the boomerang.

Are the torque spec the same for 4 bolt?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top