No they are not, bleeder should always be on top! Some have a way of having 2 holes and can be but stock units are not like that

ec17pse said:

No they are not, bleeder should always be on top! Some have a way of having 2 holes and can be but stock units are not like that

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OK but what difference does it make? Especially when the valve isn't being used (I only bleed if I'm changing fluid or doing brake work, almost never) More importantly I want to know if they'll bolt up right. Im about to order 2 rights and try it out but if someone tells me they won't I'll order a left one at full price, just really sucks because I'd have to send out an AWD core which I don't have.

They cheap so do it anyway,

But when bleeding they become a pain if its upside down! Its not impossible to bleed this way but its not standard practice to do it this way,

I always keep the bleed valves at the top to make sure it pushes all air out, if its upside down then sometimes it could still trap air inside

PlanZero said:

OK but what difference does it make? Especially when the valve isn't being used (I only bleed if I'm changing fluid or doing brake work, almost never) More importantly I want to know if they'll bolt up right. Im about to order 2 rights and try it out but if someone tells me they won't I'll order a left one at full price, just really sucks because I'd have to send out an AWD core which I don't have.

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Problem is, you wouldn't be able to bleed them properly during initial installation with the bleeder valve on the bottom. This would cause numerous issues on its own.

I would pick up the one side at that price and keep an eye out for the other side in the future.

I figured I'd just make sure I pump them extra thoroughly to get the air out after install. I usually have a length of hose running off the valve anyway I would route upwards. I dont really see any issues other than I may have to go back and re bleed if there's still a little air in there. If I really wanted to i suppose i could even tap a new valve. I mean for the price I'll deal with a little inconvenience if that's it. I have some old fwd brakes somewhere to examine but i dont know where they're at. Can someone please confirm that they'll at least bolt up?
Jinscho could you elaborate on "numerous issues" please?

PlanZero said:

I figured I'd just make sure I pump them extra thoroughly to get the air out after install. I usually have a length of hose running off the valve anyway I would route upwards. I dont really see any issues other than I may have to go back and re bleed if there's still a little air in there. If I really wanted to i suppose i could even tap a new valve. I mean for the price I'll deal with a little inconvenience if that's it. I have some old fwd brakes somewhere to examine but i dont know where they're at. Can someone please confirm that they'll at least bolt up?
Jinscho could you elaborate on "numerous issues" please?

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Numerous issues from air being in the system? Sure.

Brake fade
Brake system failure
Premature caliper failure
Dual piston caliper with an air pocket at the top of the caliper could lead to improper pad contact.

Needless to say, zero fun involved in any situation.

Also.. Even with a length of hose attached to the bleeder valve it wouldn't help. Tapping a new bleeder could potentially work, however I've never gone down that road so I wouldn't feel comfortable suggesting it or not.

Best way to visualize trying to bleed a caliper with the valve on the bottom would be to take a half full 2 liter of soda and tip it upside down. Now, if you were to crack open the lid, which way is the fluid going? Air will always head to the top of the caliper regardless of where the valve is opening, just as air would rush in past the soda while dumping the soda out onto the ground.

Jesus are we seriously discussing how to cheap out on buying the correct caliper? Ones on sale, buy both and be glad you got them cheaper than they already are.

A bleeder hole isn't just a threaded fitting. You can't just drill and tap a hole. Doesn't work that way.

You guys are too funny. If he wants to be cheap it works. It just takes a little more work if hes up for it. It entails removing the calipers and hanging them up on the springs with the bleeder facing up. If you don't have a mityvac, remove the pads and place a block of wood in between. Bleed as usual, compress the Piston back in and remount the caliper and pads.
2gs are able to get away with this because the banjo feed is directly in the center which allows the calipers to be flipped unlike the 1g.

However, at the end of the day you're better off just getting the right caliper. The process outlined above is similar to what I usually do when bleeder screws break off.

lasthope05 said:

You guys are too funny. If he wants to be cheap it works. It just takes a little more work if hes up for it. It entails removing the calipers and hanging them up on the springs with the bleeder facing up. If you don't have a mityvac, remove the pads and place a block of wood in between. Bleed as usual, compress the Piston back in and remount the caliper and pads.
2gs are able to get away with this because the banjo feed is directly in the center which allows the calipers to be flipped unlike the 1g.

However, at the end of the day you're better off just getting the right caliper. The process outlined above is similar to what I usually do when bleeder screws break off.

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This is almost exactly what I was thinking.
Although no one has confirmed if they'll bolt right up yet haha.
If so, it's a matter of $40 more or 5 extra minutes of install time I suppose.

My brother just had this issue on his truck. Someone put new brake components on, and had the calipers on the wrong side. A half gallon of brake fluid later they still couldn't get them bled.

I came out and put them on the right side bled them once and they worked fine.

It's impossible to get all the air out of a caliper with the bleeder on the bottom.

It will bolt on just fine. The only thing you have to put up with is the upside-down bleeder screw(mitigated by the process I outlined above) and no longer having locating/lock tabs for the banjo fitting(which isn't too big of a deal).

But again, I would rather have the correct calipers is the first place

Well since none of the other calipers ship from the same place I ordered a couple and new lines for now. Ive bled the system before without the calipers attached with blocks of wood so we'll see if it isn't too much of a PITA. I just wanted to make sure the caliper bracket itself would bolt up. Thanks!

Youre worried about adjustable swaybars but will cheap out on brakes? Some peoples priorities.

You won't be able to bleed a caliper with the bleeder In a downward position. You would have to reverse bleed the air bubble out by cracking open the brake bleeder with the hose on the bleeder going into a bottle of brake fluid. You would then use a mighty vac bleeder to suck fluid from the bottom of the master back up the line and into the reservoir.

I've seen it done using an old school carburated fuel pump to put suction on the bottom of the master reservoir. Lol. Customer was doing a brake system flush on his 71 impala 4 door, it was actually a really fast way to do it by himself.