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ECMlink Need some guidance?

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Sbgriffin

Proven Member
185
16
Jun 14, 2017
Lewiston, Idaho
So I'm on a quest to learn the basics of tuning, nothing fancy at this point. I saved for 3 months, and finally was able to purchase ecmlink. Which is my first experience with any engine management system. I grew up wrenching on old carbed v8's, and some old EFI systems. I've studied up on fuel trims, sensors, timing and how it all works together. I feel I have a solid understanding of the basics. But what im struggling with is tying it all together. There's so many terms and values that don't mean anything to me yet. I've been trying my best to search every term individually, and it's really overwhelming. Just for an example, load factor, I have no reference of what it is or should be? And there's many more.
So my question is. Do you guys have some recommended resources I can study, and gain a basic understanding of values, terms, and definitions of tuning? Even if it's in general, not link specific. I think the issue I'm having is it's all a foreign language til you have an application to apply it to. Sorry for the ramble, but any input is greatly appreciated?
 
Go to ecmtuning.com and there's a tab at the top that says Knowledge Base. It has the info for just about everything you'd want to know about ecmlink.
 
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So I've read a lot on the wiki pages, and that definitely helped me. But where I'm struggling is getting basic terms, values, and the definitions of what it refers to. Load factor is a big one. I really can't adjust a fuel table without having a reference and understanding. I think I'm doing OK with logging. And understand fuel trims OK. Also with timing, I'm really not sure what's an appropriate amount for the rpm or load? Maybe I can post a small log here, have a few of you look it over? And I'll read over the recommended threads, see if it helps. Thanks for all the help.
 
everything starts with setting up idle (engine at operating temperature) , so post a log if it & I will check it out . Btw do you have installed wide band cause it's needed for wot tuning .
 
everything starts with setting up idle (engine at operating temperature) , so post a log if it & I will check it out . Btw do you have installed wide band cause it's needed for wot tuning .
No not yet, I know it's a must, and is on the list. But I just forked out almost a $1000 for a transmission overhaul, and $500 for ecmlink. So I'm pretty tapped out til taxes. I'm hoping in the mean time I can educate myself, and work on my idle/cruise tune.
So what about the fuel and timing tables you can download from ecmtuning? I loaded up 1g tune, but I've read Evo 8 tables are better?
I'll see if I can figure out how to post that log in the next day, haven't ever done that neither. Can't be that hard though. So no guarantee I was capturing the right values. Thanks again!
 
The 1g table is much more aggressive than the 2g/evo tables. if you were to do a wot pull and track it while looking at your timing table you'll notice the timing gets very high (like 22*). A lot of people recommend starting with the evo timing table. FYI, your computer comes stock with 1g tables so you loaded in tables you already had :)
 
True 2g or Evo timing nap is better than 1g map . But before any changes , what fuel (oct) & boost are you planning to run ? Here is the timing map so copy and paste to ecu (only max oct timing )
 

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True 2g or Evo timing nap is better than 1g map . But before any changes , what fuel (oct) & boost are you planning to run ? Here is the timing map so copy and paste to ecu (only max oct timing )
I wouldnt waste your time with the evo map, the timing table is way to low for a standard 1g. The car is going to feel sluggish. The best starting point imo is the 2g map.... its a mixture of both. This is what I think most tuning newbs should start with
 
I start with a 2g map also. It is a safer map to "start" with. Tweak it from there.
 
The 1g table is much more aggressive than the 2g/evo tables. if you were to do a wot pull and track it while looking at your timing table you'll notice the timing gets very high (like 22*). A lot of people recommend starting with the evo timing table. FYI, your computer comes stock with 1g tables so you loaded in tables you already had :)
Yeah I know that would be the case, but I bought the system used off the classifieds. Both the EPROM ECU, and link. So it had the previous owners tune when I got it. I figured it would be easier starting from scratch. But really my car's power band feels peaky, and sluggish off boost. Like I gotta ring it's neck to wake it up. I'm pretty sure my engine is in descent shape, 152-156psi across. Does get some blow-by though, burns a little oil. I'll have time tonight to load that log, see if you guys see any red flags. Thanks again.
 
True 2g or Evo timing nap is better than 1g map . But before any changes , what fuel (oct) & boost are you planning to run ? Here is the timing map so copy and paste to ecu (only max oct timing )
Pretty conservative on the boost, like 15-16 psi for now. After I get a meth injection setup, probably 20-24psi. I'll be running 92oct, there's no e85 in my area. My goal is only 300whp, safe & reliable.
 
So here's a few logs from a month ago, I wasn't sure how to crop them down. But both are a warm up cycle idling, follow by several 2nd, and 3rd gear pulls. Lots of cruise in the middle, I never go to redline because I'm getting blow-by when pushing that hard, so I never go over 6200rpm. I'm gonna be honing, and re-ringing over the winter. Also I've since trimmed a little off my max-oct fuel table since, trying to get a 10.5 afr under load. But haven't had any time to do a new log, moving into a new house has me well occupied. Anyway, take a peek and see what you guys think, any constructive input is welcome. Thanks.
 

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Do you have a wideband? We'll need that in the log to see actual afr. It looks like you need some physical adjustment on the tps, I don't see it ever go lower than 4%. Here is a good thread for that http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/
And you've got some weird part throttle knock (11.6 deg retard at 8% throttle around 150sec into the 1st log, but hardly anything in the second log) that needs to be addressed. It looks like you might not even be on the throttle at that point in the log, just resting at 8% closed. You can disable the knock sensor in those part throttle areas if necessary, but do all the usual knock sensor checks first to see if you can get rid of it.
 
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Do you have a wideband? We'll need that in the log to see actual afr. It looks like you need some physical adjustment on the tps, I don't see it ever go lower than 4%. Here is a good thread for that http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/
And you've got some weird part throttle knock (11.6 deg retard at 8% throttle around 150sec into the 1st log, but hardly anything in the second log) that needs to be addressed. It looks like you might not even be on the throttle at that point in the log, just resting at 8% closed. You can disable the knock sensor in those part throttle areas if necessary, but do all the usual knock sensor checks first to see if you can get rid of it.
No wideband yet, it's on the list. But just spent $1000 on a transmission overhaul, so I'm tapped out til taxes. But yes I was getting some phantom knock down low, so I did the cancellation below 2500rpm. Also I've tried adjusting my IAC valve with the BISS, but can't seem to get it up to 30. I think 21 was the best I could get. I'm suspect of the aftermarket IAC I put on a year ago. I also tried adjusting my TPS, but was before I had link. I'm guessing it's off a bit. What about my cruise and idle AFR, does it look decent? I know I need to trim a little bit off my AFR under load. But I'm still a little nervous of doing to much on my fuel tables?
 
Might be a few months. I'm tearing down to address my blow-by, oil consumption issue. Probably just a hone, rings and bearings. And have rebuilt trans to install.
But as soon as I do I'll get back to you guys with a new log. Thanks.
 
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