2" is fine, just make sure its the high temp stuff, if not it can melt from the heat! If yu need more cooling you can add inline fans, is this can be used while in the pits aswel,

Not got my hose on yet but my brackets are botled on at least for my brembos,

You might have to get fancy and made our own mockup stuff for your spec calipers, or use some honda/porsche ducts that channel the air into the rotor! Many options just deoends on cost and what your able to whip up,

Ah that’s a good idea. I think those are by Binary Engineering. Looks like Pegasus Racing (excellent place to order from) has a decent selection of hoses.

tunedbysaturnsl said:

Ah that’s a good idea. I think those are by Binary Engineering. Looks like Pegasus Racing (excellent place to order from) has a decent selection of hoses.

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Thats right they are. I made my own but messed the angle up and i told one of my friends here to buy some as i saw them online then once i screwed mine up i just decided to buy a set inseltead for speed and ease

Thank you! What about bumper? Fog lights area as an inlet or under the bumper?

Depends, if you have a splitter then naca ducts from under the car will work if designed and placed correctly, but for ease then front bumper is ok if your keeping the openings open

The 2g is tough to run brake ducting due mostly in part of the lack of useable space. I think 3" may be too big to plumb. When test fitting, try using some cheap vinyl tubing or similar to find the best route. This way you don't waste money. The fog light area may look good on the outside, but will take up valuable real estate where the intercooler plumbing is. I would agree that one good solution would be under the car (with splitter) using NACA ducts.

In my experience, I did not find it necessary to run brake ducting for my 2g. I did, however, adapt Porshe GT3 air guides to the front lower control arm to aid in cooling. My setup included the Outlander brackets to extend the OE calipers out to accommodate a larger rotor. I only did this because I still needed to be able to use 15" wheels for RallyCross. I never had any brake fade with the following setup:

• OE calipers
• Outlander caliper brackets
• Centric blank rotors
• Carbotech XP10 F, XP8 R
• ATE brake fluid (changed every other track day)
• Porsche GT3 air guides
• ABS disabled
• 200 treadwear tires

One problem I did have with this setup was that I needed to rebuild the front calipers every 2-3 open track days as the boots would not hold up. I just had an extra set that I would swap in and then rebuild. This was a very economical setup that I found acceptable for 4-5 15-20 minute sessions per day. I also tend to run on courses that tend to be 1.5-2 miles with many turns, so take into account how much braking is required for a particular course. Street vs R-comp tires will also make brake requirements vary as well.

One issue that can arise from larger brake setups are that deleting the dust shields on a car that sees road course duty is that the heat tends to damage other items close to the rotors such a ball joints. One way to solve this would be to make small heat shields for heat sensitive components.

Great info. Thanks everyone
Outlander-mitsubishi suv?

Oh and any idea about the rears? As in ducts again or is there any other way-pics if possible.

boriscsx said:

Outlander-mitsubishi suv?

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Yes. Like I said, this was my choice due to the fact that I needed to be able to quickly/easily swap to use 15" wheels. Otherwise, I would have been using Evo 8/9 Brembos and Galant knuckles. With the Evo Brembo setup, titanium backing plates are available to keep heat where it should be. Aftermarket rebuild parts and near endless pad/rotor choices are also available for this brake setup as it is shared with both Mitsubishi and Subaru platforms

boriscsx said:

Oh and any idea about the rears? As in ducts again or is there any other way-pics if possible.

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I personally don't feel that ducting would be necessary for the rear as the majority of braking bias goes to the front. With ducting, keep in mind that the goal is not to just cool the brakes, but rather keep the pads at the operational heat range. This is where it will be important to know what heat range your pads are rated for, and take temp readings during events to make informed decisions about if/where ducting may be needed. Keep in mind that it possible to keep brakes too cool.

I agree, the rear most likely wont need it, however @gsxitement has said the rears on his over heat so depending on pad and rotor compounds its hard to say exactly what will and wont work but a general basis should be able to advise, worst case if in doubt do it. Few forums i sesrch even said keeping the oads colder actually helped braking better but it may eat rotors more but the initial Mù is there for stopping but if not in the right range will wear more, pad or rotor so can restrict it if needed,

Im currently not doing my rears but i do have plans to in the futurebut for now a couple of laps in TA wont be an issue unless you do some endurance events of course

Yeah. According to my brake rotor temp paint, the rears are making WAY more heat than the fronts. Like.....hundreds of degrees more than the fronts. Now, this could be a product of not actually knowing what rear pads are in the rear, since when I got the Evo calipers, they had pads in them already aaaaaaand I was broke by that point . So the temps could be skewed by that. I actually just ordered my manual master from Chase bays so I can eliminate the booster and actually get a pedal that sends feedback.

Well, never heard of too much brake cooling and since he is doing 4- 5 sessions of about 20 minutes and courses with many turns, if he does not try to cool them he would be without brakes by 3rd or 4th lap.
It does not matter what compound of racing pads you are using, you will need to cool them as much as possible.
As far as rears, it usually is easier to rig something up but again they should also be helped.

arrowhead said:

Well, never heard of too much brake cooling and since he is doing 4- 5 sessions of about 20 minutes and courses with many turns, if he does not try to cool them he would be without brakes by 3rd or 4th lap.
It does not matter what compound of racing pads you are using, you will need to cool them as much as possible.
As far as rears, it usually is easier to rig something up but again they should also be helped.

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We are all entitled to our opinions. The idea is to keep the pad at the optimal temp range. What I can tell you is that with a proper pad choice is that you won't likely have full braking until 2-3 lap as the pads need to warm up. Driver experience/style do also play a role in this as well. If you are experiencing brake fade that early, you won't have a good day at the track.

Sorry but you should bring your pad temp in your warm up laps not after 3 or 4 laps of actual racing that goes for tires also.
Maybe we are talking two different types of racing, if in wheel to wheel you would be at the back of the pack if you waited that long, maybe for time attack you can afford that luxury but I am not familiar with the procedure in time attack.
In w/w it is not my opinion it is a fact.

Pad choice absolutely has an effect on brake temps. When I called road race engineering with my problem, even they said that having mix matched pad compounds can make one set have to work harder than others. I use genysis brake temp paint. Rear rotors came up to the beige color. Fronts are still red. That's a huge difference in rotor temp.

Also, you can ABSOLUTELY over cool your brakes. That's why a lot of folks use mesh at the duct opening, so they can tape the opening up to tune brake temps. Like 2Gmitsueclipse said, you want to keep brake temps in their operational range. Not just super cool. That's where rotor paint, caliper strips, and other tools are useful in determining that.

Of course you have to mix match your compounds, that is a given, I never said to overcool your brake on the contrary I said to bring your brake to operating temp in warm up laps, also in road racing you will never reach the point of overcooling your brakes.
You are also trying to keep the fluid from boiling, which it will happen no matter which fluid you use if you are not cooling properly.
In most cases you will exceed recommended brake temps on certain points on the track, glowing rotors, sure you have seen those.
I have never seen in all the years of racing anyone reducing their brake cooling capabilities, on the contrary the more the better.
We may be talking different animals, drag racing no or very little cooling, autox medium cooling same as rallyx, open rally lots more cooling, wheel to wheel as much as possible with whatever compound chosen,
even going to water mist for very long races or fast courses with lots of turns and short straights.
So what type of racing you do will influence your pad selection.
Which one do you do or referring to, so we may be on the same train of thought.

Mandy

That's wrong. Different tracks require different situations for brake cooling. Tracks like Lime Rock where theres only one very hard braking zone going into turn one where you'll lose most of the brakes heat during a lap if you over cool them. Where as tracks like a couple of Poconos layouts or thunderbolt at NJMP where you need a lot of brake cooling. There isn't a blanket statement for cooling the brakes. I crew chiefed in SCCA for a few years, and trust me, tuning brake cooling is very much a thing. I time trial my GSX. You need to keep the brake pad in it's operational temperature to get maximum efficiency out of the pad. That's why pads have temp ratings. And it's your job as a driver/crew chief to keep them in that range.

I dont quite understand your point, I have not stated anything much different than what you have said.
I agreed that pads should be kept at their operating temp.
I did not make a blanket statement, as a matter of fact I broke them down as of needs by type of racing.
Pad selection depends on many variables as you well know.
Where I differ with you is doing x number of laps before starting to actually race, you should try to bring everything, engine temp, trans,tires,oil, brakes and tires included.
Driver style an brake input are outmost important, car weight, type of tire etc.
Lets take Lime Rock, a little riding on the brake will solve that problem, this also applies to many other tracks, Daytona, Sebring, Talladega, where you have long straights and then come to a hairpin or a tight turn, I could very specific on where it would apply.
It is also why you are offered different compounds, I choose my pads car related not track related, I go with the most agressive and work down based on how the car behaves until I find where the car does what it is suppose to do.
Please point out to me where I am so wrong.
Mandy

arrowhead said:

I dont quite understand your point, I have not stated anything much different than what you have said.
I agreed that pads should be kept at their operating temp.
I did not make a blanket statement, as a matter of fact I broke them down as of needs by type of racing.
Pad selection depends on many variables as you well know.
Where I differ with you is doing x number of laps before starting to actually race, you should try to bring everything, engine temp, trans,tires,oil, brakes and tires included.
Driver style an brake input are outmost important, car weight, type of tire etc.
Lets take Lime Rock, a little riding on the brake will solve that problem, this also applies to many other tracks, Daytona, Sebring, Talladega, where you have long straights and then come to a hairpin or a tight turn, I could very specific on where it would apply.
It is also why you are offered different compounds, I choose my pads car related not track related, I go with the most agressive and work down based on how the car behaves until I find where the car does what it is suppose to do.
Please point out to me where I am so wrong.
Mandy

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Your blanket statement was you want the most cooling for your brakes as possible. I disagree with that since different tracks require different brake temp control and tuning. Yes, you can use the first few laps to get everything up to temp, but what's the point if you have Max cooling on the brakes. I'm certainly not gonna drag the brakes on a flier to keep temp in the brakes. I'm gonna restrict the amount of cooling to the brakes. If you can afford 7 different types of brake compounds for the different tracks you go to, more power to ya. I cannot. So I'll do what can with what I have. Also, taping up brake ducts not only fine tunes your brake temps, but it also adds downforce on the front end. All I'm saying is I disagree with the statement that you want Max cooling on the brakes at all times. That's just not so.

I said warm up laps not first few laps the only time you would drag your brakes some would be in those warm up laps.
No I can not afford 7 different compounds especially when I stated choosing pads car related not track related.
In a road racing when you have, 30 or more cars around you that are trying to climb all over you better make sure you are going to slow down quickly and not have brake fade.
I usually dont have to try more than 2 compounds to find what the car likes.
And yes you want as much brakes as possible, and at the same time keep the operating temps where they should be and for that you need cooling.
Like I said, never seen cooling ducts taped up, I guess I will have to look closer next time at the track.
Why people want to put fans and water mist on their system if it is not to cool your brakes.
Pads, calipers, rotors, brake fluid they all exceed normal temps in racing, so you have to cool them down,
I still dont quite get your point, but anyways.
Mandy

I'm not disagreeing that brakes need to be cooled . All I'm saying is that the cooling off the brakes has to be monitored and adjusted to suit the track and driving style. That's it.

This seems to be where differing opinions/experiences originated with your views @arrowhead.

arrowhead said:

Well, never heard of too much brake cooling and since he is doing 4- 5 sessions of about 20 minutes and courses with many turns, if he does not try to cool them he would be without brakes by 3rd or 4th lap.

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• The OP did not state any specifics about the type of racing/track events they were planning to compete in. Generic information would be appropriate as a response. I myself, chose to also share some on my personal experience (specifically related to a road course) to help the OP get an idea of what my findings have been. I am not assuming there are warm-up laps, nor assuming they are wheel-to-wheel racing. I am however, assuming they are speaking generally about driving on a road course. I think the point is that the brake pads need time to get to operating temperature and remain within that temp range as long as possible. This would be true no matter what type of racing/driving we are talking about.

arrowhead said:

It does not matter what compound of racing pads you are using, you will need to cool them as much as possible.

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• This is the statement that has caused quite a debate. This is where I differ in opinion. To me, this statement should be changed to:

2gmitsueclipse said:

This seems to be where differing opinions/experiences originated with your views @arrowhead.

• The OP did not state any specifics about the type of racing/track events they were planning to compete in. Generic information would be appropriate as a response. I myself, chose to also share some on my personal experience (specifically related to a road course) to help the OP get an idea of what my findings have been. I am not assuming there are warm-up laps, nor assuming they are wheel-to-wheel racing. I am however, assuming they are speaking generally about driving on a road course. I think the point is that the brake pads need time to get to operating temperature and remain within that temp range as long as possible. This would be true no matter what type of racing/driving we are talking about.

• This is the statement that has caused quite a debate. This is where I differ in opinion. To me, this statement should be changed to:

"It does not matter what compound of racing pads you are using, you will need to keep them within the operating temp as long as possible."​

If you do not agree with this, that is fine as we can all share of views on the matter. Using available methods to check temps can help the OP make informed decisions about what their particular brake setup needs.​

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This