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Valve spring tool

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Iv own / used the EuroX spring compressor. It a good tool and super easy to use.
My only issue with this tool is the bolt or coating. After running through the intake side of the head the bolt started to bind in the threads. I have to tap the block, and run a tap on the bolt to clean up the threads.
since then its worked fine.
 
I have the euro exports one, it works well and gets my vote
 
I have the eBay link one and it works good. I really don't like the threaded aluminum and screw design though cause it can easily leave aluminum behind in your head as the bolt kind of makes shavings as you tighten it down.
 
I have the eBay link one and it works good. I really don't like the threaded aluminum and screw design though cause it can easily leave aluminum behind in your head as the bolt kind of makes shavings as you tighten it down.
If your over tighten it sure. But under normal use its not going to leave anything behind
 
T
This is what I have and like. It also works well really well on other cars since its universal. I dont like buying engine specific tools like the euroexport unless absolutely necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Spring...-11&keywords=overhead+valve+spring+compressor


This is the one I used to have (except Snap-On) it worked well. The ones with the billet aluminum blocks I feel like I could make something similar out of scrap metal I have at home. I'll try and make a tool. If not I'll figure out which one I'll buy LOL. Thanks for all the input folks!! Greatly appreciated.
 
I bought the Euro tool. Works good but if I were to buy one again, I would buy the above

Seems easier to slide from spring to spring instead of having to unbolt the Euro block everytime

To clear things up a little, the Euroxports and the xi racing (the one found on ebay) will do 4 springs before it needs to be unbolted and moved.

My personal opinion on the matter, I have used 3 different spring compressors on the 4g63 head along with a cheap (~$13? ebay found) leak down tester. The first was the most universal head-on-block manual depression compressor that you have to physically pry on to depress the spring. It worked fine and doesn't run the risk of marring the retainer. I did find for head-off-block removal that the c-clamp style compressor was easier to use then the previously mentioned given that you have to lock the head down to something to get good leverage. Finally, I've used the teamxI cam-tower flange style aluminum block most commonly found on ebay and pretty much directly copied from Euroxports. I have to say, this is by far the easiest tool to use and quite literally make the hardest part of the job dealing with the timing. With the lever style universal depressor, you have to force the spring down, maintain pressure and try to install the keepers. With either the c-clamp style (for off block) or tower mounted (for on block), pressure can be applied and maintained with nothing more then a turn of the ratchet making keeper install much easier.

I bought the TeamXI tool without realizing it was a knock off. It's not one of my favorite DSM specific tools along with the Jay Racing timing belt tool set.
 
Really my advice doing a job with the head on block

Step 1, cut the team xii spring tool compressor in half, to use on each side. Using the rope method you can only do 2 springs at a time with the motor at top dead center

Buy a good set of angled needle nose pliers. The $10 duralast set worked awesome. They have a strong hatch weave and grabbed the seals and never slipped. Wiggle front to back, left to right, and then they slide up and off the seats

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The heads off the car now. I use compressed air when I do it on the motor. I have all the tools I need to do it. Well.....except the compressor tool LOL.
 
Could be that. Could be kiggly beehive spring rates. Could be the quality of aluminum used in the eBay version.
Use something to reduce friction on the threads next time you use it. Oil, grease, anti-sieze, or the like. That should help quite a bit.
 
The heads off the car now. I use compressed air when I do it on the motor. I have all the tools I need to do it. Well.....except the compressor tool LOL.

Usually I would as well, but in my reading up some people had problems with 100psi not holding enough resistance to the valve to overcome the tension of the spring compressor and valve keeper locs.

It was still very difficult to free the valve from the keeper locks, the valve basically needed to bottom out against the rope to give strong enough tension to dislodge the valve from the spring, even with lubricating oil on the keepers.

I could have just used the piston at top dead center to provide tension against the valve, but it seemed metal to metal contact is always a bad thing and I would hate to either bend a valve or scratch the edge of the valve and mess up the sealing surface.

With my basic tools I'm not sure the job would have been any easier with the head off the car using the eBay spring tool. I probably still would have had to found a way to keep the valve from moving downward, using even pressure across the surface inside the combustion bowl
 
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Usually I would as well, but in my reading up some people had problems with 100psi not holding enough resistance to the valve to overcome the tension of the spring compressor and valve keeper locs.

It was still very difficult to free the valve from the keeper locks, the valve basically needed to bottom out against the rope to give strong enough tension to dislodge the valve from the spring, even with lubricating oil on the keepers.

I could have just used the piston at top dead center to provide tension against the valve, but it seemed metal to metal contact is always a bad thing and I would hate to either bend a valve or scratch the edge of the valve and mess up the sealing surface.

With my basic tools I'm not sure the job would have been any easier with the head off the car using the eBay spring tool. I probably still would have had to found a way to keep the valve from moving downward, using even pressure across the surface inside the combustion bowl

What I usually do is take a socket or similar and give the retainers a quick rap with a light hammer. That usually frees up the locks really well. Old trick I learned back in the day when I went to school for cup engines. And yeah nah.... definitely don't want the piston touching the valve ever, even in that situation. When I use air it's shop air pressure which is 150psi. Never had an issue of losing a valve.
 
Really my advice doing a job with the head on block

Step 1, cut the team xii spring tool compressor in half, to use on each side. Using the rope method you can only do 2 springs at a time with the motor at top dead center

Buy a good set of angled needle nose pliers. The $10 duralast set worked awesome. They have a strong hatch weave and grabbed the seals and never slipped. Wiggle front to back, left to right, and then they slide up and off the seats

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Is this the poor man's compressed air method?

Does anyone know what fitting size is needed for the spark plug hole?
 
I don't think of it as the poor man's method.

Getting to the point where you have already removed the camshafts, you are probably about 2 hours deep into the car already, I'll go as stingy as 45 minutes if you've done this job multiple times.

Considering all of the variables, if you're at home and you have to walk away from the engine bay while you have a valve spring off of the car, (let's say it's as simple as having to answer the phone, eat dinner with the family, or run an errand) with the rope method you can safely walk away from the car and never have to worry about the compressor running all night
 
The eurosport tool will probably bind if you don't use the thick grease that it comes with. That bolt is overcoming a lot of spring tension especially in upgraded springs. Make sure you keep it lubed because that's what protects it against the metal on metal contact.
 
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