gsxitement
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,887
- 1,665
- Dec 9, 2002
-
DOBBS FERRY,
New_York
What valve spring compressor are people using? I used to have a shaft mounted tool, but I guess someone at work wanted it more than me.
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I seen this but don't know how good it really works but it seems very similar.
https://www.ebay.com/i/322391010470?chn=ps&dispItem=1
If your over tighten it sure. But under normal use its not going to leave anything behindI have the eBay link one and it works good. I really don't like the threaded aluminum and screw design though cause it can easily leave aluminum behind in your head as the bolt kind of makes shavings as you tighten it down.
If your over tighten it sure. But under normal use its not going to leave anything behind
This is what I have and like. It also works well really well on other cars since its universal. I dont like buying engine specific tools like the euroexport unless absolutely necessary.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Spring...-11&keywords=overhead+valve+spring+compressor
This is what I have and like. It also works well really well on other cars since its universal. I dont like buying engine specific tools like the euroexport unless absolutely necessary.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Spring...-11&keywords=overhead+valve+spring+compressor
That's what I have and it worked very well.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I bought the Euro tool. Works good but if I were to buy one again, I would buy the above
Seems easier to slide from spring to spring instead of having to unbolt the Euro block everytime
Use something to reduce friction on the threads next time you use it. Oil, grease, anti-sieze, or the like. That should help quite a bit.Could be that. Could be kiggly beehive spring rates. Could be the quality of aluminum used in the eBay version.
The heads off the car now. I use compressed air when I do it on the motor. I have all the tools I need to do it. Well.....except the compressor tool .
Usually I would as well, but in my reading up some people had problems with 100psi not holding enough resistance to the valve to overcome the tension of the spring compressor and valve keeper locs.
It was still very difficult to free the valve from the keeper locks, the valve basically needed to bottom out against the rope to give strong enough tension to dislodge the valve from the spring, even with lubricating oil on the keepers.
I could have just used the piston at top dead center to provide tension against the valve, but it seemed metal to metal contact is always a bad thing and I would hate to either bend a valve or scratch the edge of the valve and mess up the sealing surface.
With my basic tools I'm not sure the job would have been any easier with the head off the car using the eBay spring tool. I probably still would have had to found a way to keep the valve from moving downward, using even pressure across the surface inside the combustion bowl
Really my advice doing a job with the head on block
Step 1, cut the team xii spring tool compressor in half, to use on each side. Using the rope method you can only do 2 springs at a time with the motor at top dead center
Buy a good set of angled needle nose pliers. The $10 duralast set worked awesome. They have a strong hatch weave and grabbed the seals and never slipped. Wiggle front to back, left to right, and then they slide up and off the seats
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